First SLR

Autonerd

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xkaes said:
The MAXXUM 5 has every manual control that could be asked for -- in addition to automatic features. Switching between auto-focus and manual-focus is a simple press of a button by your left index finger.
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Of course, but what I'm saying is that it's not what the camera is set up for. There are no focus aids (save the dot that appears when the camera thinks its focused), lens isn't geared well for manual focusing, and in manual exposure mode you use the same dial to set aperture *and* shutter speed, which is awkward and slow (and doesn't translate to any other camera).

Versus, say, a Pentax KM -- if you can use that, you can use pretty much any manual-focus 35mm SLR from the 1970s and 80s.

You know how I feel about the 5 -- I think it's a nifty camera. But it's designed primarily for automatic or semi-automatic exposure, and it's really not set up for manual focusing. It's a great camera, but I wouldn't recommend any AF camera for someone seeking out a truly manual experience -- and if I did, it'd be one that at least sets aperture through a ring on the barrel (like the Nikon N8008). And with a 50E budget, one has to think about the cost of lithium batteries

Again -- the Maxxum 5 is a magnificent camera and a smokin' bargain, but if what the OP wants is an old-school manual experience, it's not anywhere near the best choice. It just isn't.

Aaron
 

Hassasin

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Back in the day I was curious about the K1000 being said left and right as best student camera. Went to K-Mart to check it out. I left with mixed feelings.

Later in life, when collecting all these oldies became part of me, I ended up with most Pentax bodies, short of LX and a couple of Spotmatic variants, but including K1000. I will continue to advocate to consider K1000 as last Pentax to purchase, after all others they made over those years.

This is not same as saying K1000 is a bad camera, it is simply too expensive for what it offers.

I also think, that continuation of this “best student camera” mantra is a disservice to those who seek sound advice. K1000 deserves to be mentioned, but with a far softer tone.
 

Radost

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Maxxum
Hassasin said:
Do any AF lenses have DOF markings? That is the first thing I would consider if manual camera was to be recommended.

Maxxum has manual mode, it does not work though as simply as a … manual camera.
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Minolta AF lenses have DoF markings.
 

KerrKid

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I just checked eBay for K1000’s. There are quite a few that are very reasonably priced and less than the KM.

I had a choice a couple years ago and went with the KM, but it was not $50.

My first camera was an SRT101 with a 58mm f1.4 lens. These can be had for very little money. I still have and use mine.

There are some great techs for Minoltas and Pentaxes and that’s important with these older cameras.

All that said, I’d talk the OP into getting an N80-type camera before any vintage camera.
 

MattKing

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cliveh's post is right on point.
The relative quality of the various models is almost irrelevant when one considers why the K1000 became a recommended standard.
At least with respect to what most of us here appreciate as important.
The K1000 was well suited to the needs of the education systems that used it, and the educators who taught with it. That suitability included things like how it was sold and distributed.
I would buy other models before I would buy a K1000 - for my own use. But if I were to be given the task of ramping up a production run of film cameras for wide spread use in education, many of the features of the K1000 would probably be incorporated in that product.
That wide familiarity and availability does factor in its current popularity (and price) on the used market.
 

Hassasin

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Radost said:
Maxxum


Minolta AF lenses have DoF markings.View attachment 334144
Click to expand...

OK, good enough. I think most AF lenses do not sport DOF scale, but that was probably later when auto-everything became expected norm.

Still this is a complex camera and lens going manual focus kind of sucks feedback wise.
 

xkaes

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Hassasin said:
Maxxum has manual mode, it does not work though as simply as a … manual camera.
Click to expand...

The MAXXUM 5 can be set to complete manual focusing by pressing a button with your thumb on your left hand on the front of the camera.

The MAXXUM 5 can be set to complete manual exposure mode by pressing a button with your index finger on your right hand on the top of the camera.

That's as completely manual as any of my Minolta SRT cameras -- so you must have a different definition of a "manual camera" than I do.

Perhaps you mean a "manual camera" does nothing automatically. Does that mean that the lens can not have an automatic diaphragm?
 

Hassasin

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Well, I'm not going to go beyond what I said - manual is there, it is not even close to how classic manual operation goes, that was the whole point, nothing else. If one wants to learn manual operation, Maxxum is not a tool to learn it, but it surely can be used, with some brain convulsions to picture what it is not.
 

xkaes

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Hassasin said:
Still this is a complex camera and lens going manual focus kind of sucks feedback wise.
Click to expand...

The MAXXUM 5 is not a "complex camera". It is designed to be used with AUTO-EVERYTHING. All the user needs to do it turn it on -- that consists of pressing a lever marked ON/OFF.

The camera correctly focuses, exposes & advances the film -- and the built-in flash is used auitomatically, if needed.

Complex?

If the photographer wants to do more s/he can -- with the exception of manually advancing the film. I must admit that older cameras have that feature -- and manual film rewind as well.

Got me there!
 

xkaes

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Hassasin said:
Well, I'm not going to go beyond what I said - manual is there, it is not even close to how classic manual operation goes,
Click to expand...

How is manual focusing different on an AF lens vs a NON-AF lens? On both, a ring around the lens is turned with the left hand to the distance marked on the lens or while looking through the viewfinder for correct focusing.

Manually focusing lenses are exactly the same on my Minolta SRT cameras and my MAXXUM 5 cameras -- turn a ring with my left hand while looking through the viewfinder. Well, there is one difference. The viewfinder on the MAXXUM 5 is brighter, and has a GREEN LED that tells me when the subject is in focus,
 

Hassasin

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Complex in a sense of learning all manual photography. Almost nothing looks like manual camera on the Maxxum. If OP wants to learn manual operation on auto everything camera, that his his choice, even if I don't see how was asking about it.

So I said "brain convulsions" needed in order to picture manual operation while flipping buttons and turning dial, looking at LCD display etc, none of which like on a manual camera most of this thread has been about.
 

xkaes

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Hassasin said:
So I said "brain convulsions" needed in order to picture manual operation
Click to expand...

"Brain convulsions"?

On my SRT cameras, I turn a ring on the lens to set the focusing. On my MAXXUM cameras, I turn a ring on the lens to set the focusing.

On my SRT cameras, I turn a dial on the camera to set the shutter speed. On my MAXXUM cameras, I turn a dial on the camera to set the shutter speed.

On my SRT cameras, I turn a ring on the lens to set the aperture. On my MAXXUM cameras, I turn a dial on the camera to set the aperture.

I can see how a neophyte could be confused.
 

Huss

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Most af lenses have a very short focus throw - to assist in rapid af focus - which can make them less than ideal to focus manually as a tiny adjustment with the focus ring can make a signicant change in point of focus.
Manual focus is much better, easier and more accurate with a longer focus throw.
 

xkaes

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The key word is "most".

My MF 21mm Vivitar has a REALLY long focusing ring -- about 270°. I normally like that, but on wide lenses it doesn't make much difference with the deep DOF. But I have other wide manual-focus lenses that have very short "throws" -- that I wish were wider.

And the other hand, I have AF lens where the focusing ring is very "long" -- I wish it were shorter -- and others that I wish were wider.

It's just one more characteristic of a lens that should be considered before it is purchased.

I face the same "issue" with MF and AF lenses.

Somehow I've survived.
 

Huss

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Most being most. I don't have any MF lenses that have the crazy short focus throw that AF lenses have (and need to AF quickly).

But I think you, in the defense of manually focusing AF lenses, are not coming at this from the right angle... AF lenses should be used in AF mode, that is what they are designed to do best. But the advantage of a glorious camera like a Nikon N80 ($20) is that you can slap on a manual focus lens, and focus with it perfectly. Because all the manual focus benefits are still there - the wonderful and perfectly weighted focus throw. The ability to use an aperture ring.

It's because Nikon kept the F mount with their AF film slrs. Like Leica w the M mount (for digital and film but of course no AF), it enabled them to use new and old lenses, which is super nice. I think Pentax is the only other mfg that did the same when they went to AF slrs. I know Canon abandoned their manual focus mount. With Minoltas - did they change their lens mount? I think they did - huge strike against them if that is the case, and the ability to use their glorious manual focus lenses is gone.
 
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138bb

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I’ve been reading all your comments and I can’t express how much I appreciate all your opinions and help!!!

I’ve decided to increase a bit my budget as many of the cameras you recommended are more on the 70/100€ range in Spain.
I checked ebay but shipping costs are way too expensive so I would pay almost the same (if not more).

I found a Minolta SRT 101 in mint condition, I think I’m gonna go with that. I hope the seller doesn’t sell it before i got the money (I’m currently an unemployed student so I’m selling some stuff to buy a nice SLR).

I also found some cheaper cameras but in worst condition. I prefer to wait and get one that functions properly. I’ll let you know! I’ll stay around as I’m probably going to need more help to get started.

Thanks again
 

Huss

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Great choice! Spending a little more on a known to be working camera is much better than trying to save money. Because it will be more expensive to fix a cheaper 'bad' camera than just buying a good one.
 

xkaes

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Huss said:
Most being most. I don't have any MF lenses that have the crazy short focus throw that AF lenses have (and need to AF quickly).
Click to expand...

I can only speak to my gear, and that's not what I've found. Here's Minolta's top of the line Rokkor-X 28mm f2.0 from the 1970s (WAY before AF lenses) that has a one quarter turn to 1 foot -- shorter than what I've seen on several AF 28mm lenses. My Vivitar 21mm f3.8 of the same period requires a 3/4 turn to get to 1 foot. For me, one is too short, and the other too long, but their shortcoming is overcome by their other qualities.

 
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xkaes

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138bb said:
I found a Minolta SRT 101 in mint condition, I think I’m gonna go with that. I hope the seller doesn’t sell it before i got the money (I’m currently an unemployed student so I’m selling some stuff to buy a nice SLR).

Click to expand...

The Minolta SRT101 is a GREAT camera, but much like the Pentax K1000, it is usually over-priced (see above discussion) -- especially when compared to other Minolta SRT cameras that have more features, such as the SRT102, SRT201, and SRT202.

There were three versions of the SRT101, and you should choose the one that has the features most important to you. Here is an explanation and comparison of the different SRT101 models:

http://www.subclub.org/minman/srt101.htm

Keep in mind that you might be able to find an SRT102, SRT201, or SRT202 for less money -- yet they all have more features than the SRT101.
 

KerrKid

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The SRT-101 is a great choice. I have two of them plus an SRT-201 that I've never even put a roll of film through. They are plentiful and very reasonably-priced. They are also very rugged cameras. I really like my 58mm f1.4 lens but also have the 55mm f1.7 and 50mm f1.4.

I was going to get an SRT-102 (202), but decided that I didn't care if I could see the aperture setting in the viewfinder or not.

In case you haven't figured this out already: No matter which camera you buy, there is always someone who will tell you that you should have bought XYZ camera instead. Believe me, you will be very happy with the SRT-101. Get one or one of the other models mentioned if that deal falls through.
 

Radost

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I use maxxum 5 full manual with spot meter and autofocus.
 

Huss

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To be fair, the correct answer is always whatever I happen to be selling.
 

xkaes

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KerrKid said:
I was going to get an SRT-102 (202), but decided that I didn't care if I could see the aperture setting in the viewfinder or not.
Click to expand...

That's not the only difference between the SRT101 and SRT102. I prefer it because it has the split-image in the middle of the micro-prism collar. But it also has multiple exposure capability, among other features the SRT101 lacks.

For a complete comparison of the countless SRT model features, check out:

http://www.subclub.org/minman/slrtable.php
 
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