Don't waste your time screwing around with the guts of the camera. If you accomplish anything, it will probably make matters worse.
Either return the dud camera, get a refund, or sell it for what it's worth -- next to nothing. You can probably get some $$ for the lens -- or since it's a screw-mount, you could buy an adapter for your Minolta, but I would not advise that since the aperture will not connect with the camera.
If it was mine, I'd remove the bottom of the camera and carefully poke around with a toothpick or something to find whatever little part is keeping the shutter from firing. I wouldn't force anything. Could be it just needs lube. Is there a film rewind button on the bottom of the camera that is depressed and not sticking out? Those have gotten stuck in the depressed position on mine. I've done the above to release them. Sometimes, juts some firm taps on the film takeup reel inside the body releases that button. That could be related to the shutter not firing. Of course, this is a WAG (wild-ass guess).
In addition to Mr. Kid's suggestions, above -
If the self timer doesn't unwind all the way then on most cameras this will keep the shutter from firing.
It is normal for self-timers to gum-up over the years and either run slowly, run erratically or not run at all. Sometimes nudging the self timer lever will help the mechanism along. Sometimes not, it all depends on the design of the camera.
If, as suggested, you can find the link between the self timer and the firing mechanism then it may unjam the camera. However, there is the chance the camera will lock again after an exposure and will have to have another 'toothpick' reset. Here's hoping this isn't the case.
On some cameras the self timer is a standalone mechanism that can be accessed by removing the self-timer lever and peeling back the leatherette. There will be a few screws around the self timer, and after these are removed the self timer will lift out. A good flush with cigarette lighter fluid or the solvent of your choice will usually get the timer working again. In my case, after I clean them off and get them running again, I do not oil them and instead let them run dry; I use a self timer so infrequently that it isn't going to wear out if it isn't oiled.
Don't waste your time screwing around with the guts of the camera. If you accomplish anything, it will probably make matters worse.
Either return the dud camera, get a refund, or sell it for what it's worth -- next to nothing. You can probably get some $$ for the lens -- or since it's a screw-mount, you could buy an adapter for your Minolta, but I would not advise that since the aperture will not connect with the camera.
On the other hand....nothing ventured nothing gained. If the camera is dead, trying to fix it won't make it any worse. Besides, just taking the bottom off and gently poking around gives a person a good idea of how things work. Of course, I'm mechanically-inclined, so that may not apply here. Plus, I have the tiny screwdrivers the OP might not have. Still, I'd give it a go if I was her.
The jury is still out on the Minolta Super. Do we even know that camera works, yet?
How do you know the Minolta seems to work fine? Do you have the proper battery to test the meter or does the meter not matter to you? What condition are the light seals in?
Don't waste your time screwing around with the guts of the camera. If you accomplish anything, it will probably make matters worse.
It's pretty easy to tell if the Minolta works -- except the meter without a battery. Set the shutter speed to 1,100. Advance the film lever. Looking into the camera, press the shutter release. You should see the shutter open and close and on the bottom of the lens opening, a lever should quickly move from left to right.
Next, set the shutter speed to 1. Advance the film lever. Looking into the camera, press the shutter release. You should see the shutter open and close and on the bottom of the lens opening, a lever should move from left to right. Since the shutter will be open for 1 second, you should clearly see the back door / film plate of the camera.
No battery needed. If it passes that test, you are 90% home.
The cost of materials to replace the seals would be way less than the cost of a roll of film.
Not to argue because everyone's experience is different, but every one of my 1970's era cameras needed to be resealed.
Just a thought. You should always run a test roll through the camera first to check out accuracy of the shutter, an other things. If you take a couple of those pictures out doors on a sunny day, you'll know immediately if you need seal replacement -- and where. There's a good chance you won't need new seals.
HOT TIP, the "guys" on this list LOVE to spend other people's money!!!
WHY, you might ask?!?!? My guess is that they either don't have enough of their own -- or have WAY TOO MUCH!!!
The cost of materials to replace the seals would be way less than the cost of a roll of film. Craft felt with sticky back cut on one of those rotary paper cutters, the kind that have a guide for the roller blade, works very well. the cutter might cost $10, but has a zillon other uses also, very handy. Felt is about $3 for more than you could use in a lifetime. I have had success with simple black yarn also for the door channels.
A test roll has to be done anyway. I've bought more OLD used cameras than you can imagine, and only one ever needed a seal replacement.
There is no need to put the cart before the horse.
Many suggest a CLEANING, LUBING, and ADJUSTMENT of ANY USED camera. Boulder-dash. If it ain't broke, don't fix it -- see post #256.
Test the damn thing first, and then either throw it in the trash, pay to have it fixed, try to fix it yourself, or use it as a bookend.
Not to argue because everyone's experience is different, but every one of my 1970's era cameras needed to be resealed. The SRT is easy to do. A Ricoh 500G is a royal PITA.
As for cost....A sheet of foam to reseal a camera is 99 cents at the craft store. I use maybe 1 cent worth of E6000 adhesive per reseal job. I can reseal dozens of cameras from one sheet of foam and maybe a thousand with one tube of adhesive. So I'm out about 5 cents and an hour of my time. Not a big deal and I have the satisfaction of knowing it's one more thing I don't have to worry about.
I agree with not getting a CLA just for the heck of it. CLA's cost real money. Wait to see if your camera needs one. (I bet it doesn't.)
What lens did you get?
That's a great deal on a 28-70mm -- assuming it is in good shape.
Those seals don't look that bad to me, but it's easy to check with a film test. As to the foam around the mirror. That's more difficult to replace, but might not be a big deal. Can you provide a better picture of the mirror foam?
Either you are just an unlucky SOB, or I'm just a lucky SOB. I've got at least a dozen 1970's SRTs and none of them have ever needed new seals.
As they say, "YMMV".
"If it ain't broke..."
TEST is the BEST.
Here you go!
I just received the lens! It seems to be in good condition. Any recommendations about how to test if it works?
I put it on the camera and try to focus at different mm. It’s not as clear as the one that came with the fujica. I tried to clean the mirror yesterday, but maybe it still has dust?
Also, I put new light seals! I found adhesive foam for 1€ at a store near me. However the one on the mirror doesn’t stick really well. I don’t know if I can use some kind of glue to make it stick better.
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