Fire protection when soldering and handling flammable solvents

[Andreas Thaler]

A topic that's often forgotten, but it's important in a camera workshop.

After all, soldering is involved, and there are butane torches and solvents that are highly flammable.

We've discussed protection from soldering fumes and solvent vapors here:

Soldering fumes: Lead-free versus lead-containing

I think there's a common understanding that soldering fumes should not be inhaled. However, this information is new to me: Working with lead-free solders releases more harmful fumes than leaded tin solders because the soldering temperatures are higher and more aggressive fluxes are required...

www.photrio.com

To extinguish a small fire that's just starting, I have this fire blanket handy while I work.

It's fireproof and is thrown over the fire to extinguish it. To do this, the blanket is pulled out of its cover.

I think it's a sensible first step while I call the fire department, which in Vienna is quick to respond.

Perhaps a fire extinguisher would be even better.

What do fire safety experts say about this?

 

[Donald Qualls]

For camera work, I'd likely prefer any extinguisher to be either carbon dioxide or argon -- smothers and cools the fire without destroying the delicate items near it the way foam or powder might.

Then again, I wonder what sort of torch might be in use for soldering on a camera? I was thinking this was more for electronics, and soldering irons aren't known as major fire hazards.

As for lead inhalation, I'll take my chances -- 60/40 electronic solder smokes some, but the smoke is from the rosin flux in the core of the wire, not from the metal itself. Lead has an extremely low vapor pressure at "just above melting" temperatures common for electronic soldering, meaning almost none becomes airborne under normal circumstances. And tin-lead solder is much nicer to use (in my experience) than lead-free...

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Then again, I wonder what sort of torch might be in use for soldering on a camera? I was thinking this was more for electronics, and soldering irons aren't known as major fire hazards.

This ones for example:

2000-7 Soldering Irons & Torches | Dremel

The Dremel VersaTip - Smooth handling, comprehensive accessory kit, efficient temperature and fuel management and continuous operation. Enjoy the flexibility of a cordless design with the Dremel VersaTip, which is powered by butane gas. Butane gas is not included

www.dremel.com

2200-5 Soldering Irons & Torches | Dremel

Dremel VersaFlame - Comprehensive versatility, extended operating time and convenience, precise temperature management, reliable and user-friendly design. Ideal for both professional and hobbyist use, the compact but powerful VersaFlame is designed for efficiency and ease, making it an...

www.dremel.com

For desoldering SMD components, forming plastic, shrink tubing, or brazing.

All part of electronic camera repair.

 

[grahamp]

I am not a fire safety expert, but I have had to be trained in the basics for University laboratory safety.

Fire needs fuel, heat/ignition source, and oxygen. Fire blankets remove oxygen, but you have to remove one of the others (turn of your iron, maybe) before you can lift the blanket. Fire blankets are great for kitchens.

Carbon dioxide is generally the best for electronics - it pushes away oxygen, and cools a bit, but it is only a 'knock down' option. With electronics you can usually kill the power (heat/ignition source). But there is a risk the fire will recover. I'm glad I never worked in a mainframe computer centre. Those places had Halon - which removes oxygen - so you had to run when the alarm went off

If you have to work in a space with flammable gas/vapour, I'd suggest you look at evacuating those, but not past your soldering station. It is a pain to have to move work from a mechanical workspace to a soldering station and back, but separating the risks is safest.

 

[koraks]

For desoldering SMD components

A butane torch for SMD work???? That's crazy.
For most of the things you mention, a hot air rework station is the way to go. Apart from soldering copper pipes when renovating our house, I've never found the need for a butane torch around the house. And certainly not for any electronics work!

If you want to do something about this fire risk, start by removing unnecessary open fire, such as butane torches. They have no place in camera repair!

 

[Andreas Thaler]

A butane torch for SMD work???? That's crazy.
For most of the things you mention, a hot air rework station is the way to go. Apart from soldering copper pipes when renovating our house, I've never found the need for a butane torch around the house. And certainly not for any electronics work!

Canon T90: Service and repair using practical examples

I have gained enough experience in my recent projects to be able to offer a tutorial on standard service for the Canon T90 here on PHOTRIO. The work I recommend for every T90 (depending on the available equipment) is: cleaning the exterior, cleaning the contacts of the command wheel, cleaning...

www.photrio.com

I'm writing from experience about experience.

Of course, you can desolder SMD components with a butane torch, shown here with the Dremel Versatip with hot air attachment.

As with the desoldering station, you control the heat with a regulator; with the Versatip, you also control the distance from the component. It works perfectly.

You can measure the temperature of the component with a thermometer. Maintain a constant control position at a constant distance.

If you want to do something about this fire risk, start by removing unnecessary open fire, such as butane torches.

Have fun working with shrink tubing and lighter

Or are you setting up your desoldering station for this purpose?

They have no place in camera repair!

Where does it say that, who says that?

SMD Löten – Mikrocontroller.net

www.mikrocontroller.net

Here you can find options for SMD soldering (German).

Hot air:

SMD Löten – Mikrocontroller.net

www.mikrocontroller.net

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I wouldn't desolder with an open butane flame either, but I didn't mention that.

The Versatip—and other butan gas torches—comes with a set of attachments, making it extremely useful. For cutting and shaping plastic, drying, and even a soldering tip.

I've enjoyed working with the hot air attachment for years.

It's very versatile.

 

[koraks]

You can do an appendectomy with a kitchen knife. That doesn't make it a good idea.

I'm outta here; this is just ridiculous.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

What's important with solvent vapors is adequate ventilation, in addition to an absorber, which I use.

If the vapor concentration is so high that a butane torch ignites it, I would also be concerned about sparks in equipment and when working with open contacts. But I'd probably already be high.

But I'm no expert here.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I'm outta here; this is just ridiculous.

Just because I have a different opinion than you and argue for it, you abandon the discussion and dismiss it as ridiculous?

Haven't I described these techniques several times in my repair reports? Wouldn't I have mentioned if they hadn't worked?

As is well known, there are many repair techniques, but rarely a single, possible one.

If you don't want one, use the other.

Everyone works at their own risk, therefore always my disclaimer:

+++

All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

But one thing is true:

Should one even work with butane devices, security concerns? But that's a different discussion, one that's certainly interesting.

Safety has many facets.

For example, I only touch mains-powered devices from the outside; they're too dangerous for me.

That's my subjective assessment.

 

[ogtronix]

A butane torch for SMD work???? That's crazy.
For most of the things you mention, a hot air rework station is the way to go. Apart from soldering copper pipes when renovating our house, I've never found the need for a butane torch around the house. And certainly not for any electronics work!

If you want to do something about this fire risk, start by removing unnecessary open fire, such as butane torches. They have no place in camera repair!

It clearly has a hot air attachment, you're being disingenuous and antagonistic. Butane powered hot air guns are a common tool in electronics work as they're small, portable, heat up quickly, and don't run flat in storage. I still use a Weller Pyropen attachment on occasion since, more than anything, it's alot quieter than my soldering station. Precise temperature control is only really needed for delicate ICs you might want to reuse. Going full blast on a known faulty component (or ones easy enough to replace) can minimize thermal damage to surrounding stuff.

Unconventional tools and idiosyncratic habits are pretty common in electronics - pretty common in any field where people do things more than theorize. I've seen and met alot of guys who sit surrounded by over £10,000 worth of test equipment but still prefer stripping wires ends with a pair of scissors and shrinking heat shrink tubing with a disposable lighter. The scissor thing works quite well actually, you pinch the wire against scissor blade with your thumb and pull it.

As for solvent safety, electric hot air guns easily get hot enough inside to ignite vapours. But I think if you're living in an environment with strong enough flammable vapours in the air to ignite like that then you'd probably have other problems. For flammable solvents i'd say decant them into smaller trays and containers, keep the working amounts minimal, and keep the main resevour far enough away that any potential flames can't jump over. Then watch out about storing too many used solvent soaked rags/ tissues/ swabs together or strewnn about cuz that can sometimes lead to funny stuff.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

The Dremel Versatip or other similar butane torches are handy, versatile, and quickly ready-to-use heat sources.

I also have a hot air station, but I only set it up when I'm working for longer periods.

We won't make any progress in DIY if we don't look beyond the horizon.

We work decades after the end of service for our repair candidates, and DIY workshops are rarely as well-equipped as professional shops. People have to be inventive. Anything goes as long as it doesn't endanger others.