Film Ferrania p30

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MattKing

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FWIW, I would expect that developer could have a slight role to play when it comes to spectral sensitivity, but only to the extent that developer choice can change both the "speed" of the film and the shape of the characteristic curve way down in the "toe".
If a film lacks red sensitivity, there may be a bunch of very faint information relating to red subjects down in that toe.
 

Mackinaw

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These two pics may help in this discussion. The B&W is P30 in D-76 straight. The color with a Leica M240.

50906594132_a4b9a694c9_b.jpg


50906474321_3b698a7c35_b.jpg
 

MattKing

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pentaxuser

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And in that example, it's behaving more like a pan film should.
You may not be referring to the pic Andrew but certainly that is how I'd expect a panchromatic film to render the colours. I was puzzled about the behaviour of P30 in terms of what is the truth about how it renders colours and after recent posts I remain puzzled

As I said Ferrania who brought this film back to life has to be in the best position to give us its findings. Maybe we will hear from them

pentaxuser
 

Andrew O'Neill

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You may not be referring to the pic Andrew but certainly that is how I'd expect a panchromatic film to render the colours. I was puzzled about the behaviour of P30 in terms of what is the truth about how it renders colours and after recent posts I remain puzzled

As I said Ferrania who brought this film back to life has to be in the best position to give us its findings. Maybe we will hear from them

pentaxuser

Film Ferrania are the only ones with the answer.
 

relistan

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These two pics may help in this discussion. The B&W is P30 in D-76 straight. The color with a Leica M240.

50906594132_a4b9a694c9_b.jpg


50906474321_3b698a7c35_b.jpg

Very interesting. To me that clearly points to the fact that it has strong ortho tendencies. The purple wing tips barely register against the blue background. And the darker blue feathers actually appear lighter than the gray/blue wall. The darkest color rendered in the wings is the red.

And in that example, it's behaving more like a pan film should.

Am I missing something with my statements above? I was seeing the opposite but maybe I'm missing something.
 

warden

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These two pics may help in this discussion. The B&W is P30 in D-76 straight. The color with a Leica M240.

Thanks for sharing! I was expecting the blue to be light but I'm surprised the red isn't darker. It's interesting to see the blue and yellow equalize the way that they have.
 

relistan

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I would generally agree. In fact it seems even more blue sensitive than ortho, with some bumps (perhaps in yellow but really hard to tell).

A reasonable take. Yes, it does seem blue sensitive AND not very red sensitive. And the different scenes being filmed would then react in quite different ways.

This might also explain why different people have reported materially different speeds for this crap film. :smile:

Ouch. :smile: Well, I have printed a few nice frames from it a few years ago now and wouldn't say it's crap. I would say it's pretty distinctive and you either like that or you don't.
 

twelvetone12

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Well all this talk on P30 made me want to give it a shot again, as I only used the Alpha one, and I managed to snitch two rolls in the big city nearby. If this is marketing from Ferrania I guess it works :wink:
But I disagree that it is crap film - when I managed to get results, they were very good, with great contrast and fantastic midtones. I made enlagnements up to 30x40 and I could barely see the grain when focusing. It printed fantastic on Adox MCC. This is why I continued to tinker with it - but I was let down by the seemingly random results I got.
 

Andrew O'Neill

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Well all this talk on P30 made me want to give it a shot again, as I only used the Alpha one, and I managed to snitch two rolls in the big city nearby. If this is marketing from Ferrania I guess it works :wink:
But I disagree that it is crap film - when I managed to get results, they were very good, with great contrast and fantastic midtones. I made enlagnements up to 30x40 and I could barely see the grain when focusing. It printed fantastic on Adox MCC. This is why I continued to tinker with it - but I was let down by the seemingly random results I got.

You're right. It does have its own look, and that will be it's saving grace.
 
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Has there been any news or rumors regarding progress on P30 in 120? I love the film and love Ferrania, despite their many flaws. I'm constantly fearing that they've given up or run out of money or something, but they are full of surprises and I'm sure we'll hear something from them eventually.
 

Disconnekt

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Has there been any news or rumors regarding progress on P30 in 120? I love the film and love Ferrania, despite their many flaws. I'm constantly fearing that they've given up or run out of money or something, but they are full of surprises and I'm sure we'll hear something from them eventually.

The only thing Ive seen is that Ultrafine has a product page for it already on their site (here: https://www.ultrafineonline.com/fifepblandwh1.html, not in stock yet) & has a pricing for it ($11.95) which is most likely the price other sites may have it at/near it
 

Agulliver

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As far as anyone knows, the Film Ferrania guys are still beavering away as and when the global plague allows. No doubt they're affected by local restrictions on movement and working, postal service issues, chemical supply issues and so on. They're based in the part of Italy which was the first area in Europe to be badly hit, and the vaccine rollout by the European Union hasn't been fast. Some of the people involved aren't spring chickens either. The extreme negativity displayed by a small number of people here has probably resulted in Dave Bias being quiet - and there's likely not going to be much to report until they're in a position to launch a new product. P30 occasionally pops up in batches with dealers so there appears to be ongoing production even if it is sporadic. It seems to be currently available for US customers via their web shop in 135 format. I managed to get two of the Alpha rolls, and last year four of the regular production rolls in the UK. I like it for landscapes and portraits of plants, trees and the like. I rarely photograph people.
 

Kuortam

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In Scott's article, he specifically does not try pyro. I'm attaching two pictures made on P30 and developed in 510-Pyro. The shot of the fence is actually taken with an original half-frame Olympus Pen, the other with a Vivitar Series One
In Scott's article, he specifically does not try pyro. I'm attaching two pictures made on P30 and developed in 510-Pyro. The shot of the fence is actually taken with an original half-frame Olympus Pen, the other with a Vivitar Series One 28mm f/1.9 on a Nikon FE2. The grain is very, very fine.
View attachment 198689 View attachment 198690

Hey Trask -

Apologies for unearthing this 5 year old thread but the link is now dead and I was wondering whether you remember the processing time you used for P30 in 510 Pyro - Thanks a lot!
 

Trask

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Hello, Kuortam. Since you asked within the discussion instead via PM (I'm glad I read this thread today), I'll put my notes here for you and any others who might be interested. In the old thread that you've included a link to in your post #943, the dead link was something posted by the Film Ferrania people, not me, so I don't have that dead link info. But if you want to know how I developed my P30 in 510 Pyro, here are my notes.

4 April 2018

Develop approx 24 exposures of new Ferrania P30 rated at ISO 80 with Olympus Pen (original) half frame then with Nikon FE2 w/ various lenses. Spectra-Combi incident metering for Olympus, in-camera metering for the FE2 for the most part. At home.

Develop in 510 Pyro at 22C, 3ml in 280ml water (I used a bit less water because i may have not gotten the full 3ml into the main mix). 12 min total, initial agitation for first 30 seconds, then point in the cardinal directions every 30 seconds until 9 minute mark, then invert every 30 sec to 12 minutes. Combina small 35mm tank.

Water stop bath, then PF TF-5 Fixer 6 minutes (10th use) constant agitation. Rinse, HCA for two minutes constant agitation. Running water 10-15 minutes. LFN and PhotoFlo in tap water, then hang to dry after see-sawing film through tank.

Results: If the initial scan of the negatives in sleeve is anything to go by, the exposures and development appears to be very good.
 

Kuortam

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Hello, Kuortam. Since you asked within the discussion instead via PM (I'm glad I read this thread today), I'll put my notes here for you and any others who might be interested. In the old thread that you've included a link to in your post #943, the dead link was something posted by the Film Ferrania people, not me, so I don't have that dead link info. But if you want to know how I developed my P30 in 510 Pyro, here are my notes.

4 April 2018

Develop approx 24 exposures of new Ferrania P30 rated at ISO 80 with Olympus Pen (original) half frame then with Nikon FE2 w/ various lenses. Spectra-Combi incident metering for Olympus, in-camera metering for the FE2 for the most part. At home.

Develop in 510 Pyro at 22C, 3ml in 280ml water (I used a bit less water because i may have not gotten the full 3ml into the main mix). 12 min total, initial agitation for first 30 seconds, then point in the cardinal directions every 30 seconds until 9 minute mark, then invert every 30 sec to 12 minutes. Combina small 35mm tank.

Water stop bath, then PF TF-5 Fixer 6 minutes (10th use) constant agitation. Rinse, HCA for two minutes constant agitation. Running water 10-15 minutes. LFN and PhotoFlo in tap water, then hang to dry after see-sawing film through tank.

Results: If the initial scan of the negatives in sleeve is anything to go by, the exposures and development appears to be very good.

Thank you Trask! Very kind of you. It took me a frustrating while to figure out that my post count is still too low to be able to send PMs
 

Kuortam

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Hello, Kuortam. Since you asked within the discussion instead via PM (I'm glad I read this thread today), I'll put my notes here for you and any others who might be interested. In the old thread that you've included a link to in your post #943, the dead link was something posted by the Film Ferrania people, not me, so I don't have that dead link info. But if you want to know how I developed my P30 in 510 Pyro, here are my notes.

4 April 2018

Develop approx 24 exposures of new Ferrania P30 rated at ISO 80 with Olympus Pen (original) half frame then with Nikon FE2 w/ various lenses. Spectra-Combi incident metering for Olympus, in-camera metering for the FE2 for the most part. At home.

Develop in 510 Pyro at 22C, 3ml in 280ml water (I used a bit less water because i may have not gotten the full 3ml into the main mix). 12 min total, initial agitation for first 30 seconds, then point in the cardinal directions every 30 seconds until 9 minute mark, then invert every 30 sec to 12 minutes. Combina small 35mm tank.

Water stop bath, then PF TF-5 Fixer 6 minutes (10th use) constant agitation. Rinse, HCA for two minutes constant agitation. Running water 10-15 minutes. LFN and PhotoFlo in tap water, then hang to dry after see-sawing film through tank.

Results: If the initial scan of the negatives in sleeve is anything to go by, the exposures and development appears to be very good.

Hi Trask et al. - I settled for 11mn at 20C in 510 Pyro, fixed in TF-5 (near fresh) for 3.30 mn. Ilford agitation. 2ml of Ilfotol - looks decent on the Xpan! Scanned in Silverfast and levels corrected slightly. Thanks again for the advice.
 

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aparat

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P30 really starts to sing (for me, anyway) at EI 10-20. I have also processed it in Pyrocat-HD (1+1+100). Once I get my hands on some more P30, I'll have to compare the two.

I agree completely. It can be a beautiful film, albeit not for every occasion.
ferraniaP30Table.png
 

Trask

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Hi Trask et al. - I settled for 11mn at 20C in 510 Pyro, fixed in TF-5 (near fresh) for 3.30 mn. Ilford agitation. 2ml of Ilfotol - looks decent on the Xpan! Scanned in Silverfast and levels corrected slightly. Thanks again for the advice.

Very nice! Glad to have helped...
 
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