So are they loaded by rotating the reel and slightly bending the film, or are they loaded differently from other reels? How are they easier?Hewes reels are a favorite of many, and are said to be easier to load.
The Hewes reel looks interesting and might be very helpful. The question is: Is this extra help worth double the price?
A suggestion: Get one of each and see which you like best. If you prefer one over the other, you can always buy another.
Also, think about getting two tanks: A tank that holds two 35mm reels and a single tank for one 35mm reel for those times when you want to process just one roll.
One shot developer made from a concentrate is a good idea-consistant and avoids storage / mixing issues.
I already have experience with this stuff at my high school. Right now I'm building something to use over winter vacation, and so I can try some developers that they don't have at my school.It is worth practicing in the light with a dummy roll of film as the knack only comes after 2 or 3 tries!
You mean like rodinal or hc-110? What about fixer?
Also, what's the difference between regular fixer and rapid fixer?
Is something like this a good idea for storing mixed developer and fixer?
What about thermometer. This one looks nice because the reading is right on the top. Is the kodak one worth the extra money?
Here's what I got in my shopping cart:
Arista Stainless Steel Tank 16 oz. with PVC Top - Model# 91216
Kodak HC110 Film Developer Concentrate to make 2 Gallons - Model# 1408988
Hewes Tundra 35mm Pro Stainless Steel Reel - Model# 140135 x2
Agfa Rodinal 17 oz. - Model# 9720
Arista Stainless Steel Tank 8 oz. with PVC Top - Model# 91801
Kodak Rapid Fixer to Make 1 Gallon - Model# 1464106
Arista Film Cartridge Opener - Model# 116060
Kodak Photo Flo 200 16 oz. - Model# 1464510
Arista Stirring Paddle Set of 2 - Model# 5131
Delta FILTER FUNNEL 16OZ - Model# 025000
Legacy Pro 6 inch Glass Thermometer - Model# 62010
Delta Datatainer 1 GAL (128OZ) - Model# 011280
A bunch of film
Anything in there that I don't need? Am I missing anything?
Wait, that isn't for pouring used fixer back into the bottle?"Filter Funnel" - I've only ever used mine for some aging gold toner that was getting seriously gunky. If your water is so bad that one of these helps, you'll need to but bottled water anyway!
My understanding is that Rodinal is an acutance developer and that HC-110 is a fine grain developer.You've got both HC110 and Rodinal there - one of them is enough. Having two developers to choose from is nice if there are significant differences between them. In this case the major difference is that Rodinal gives lower effective film speed. Stick with HC110.
I like that technique!"Film Cartridge Opener" - That's a fancy name for a bottle cap opener. You don't need it. You don't even need to open the cartridges, just cut the film at the end. If you do need to open the cartridge; use a bottle opener, or slam the "sticking-out" end of the pool HARD down on a flat surface. The other end flies off, and the cartridge is open!
What films are you doing this with? I'm plan on trying an acutance developer with films like Pan F Plus and Delta 100.Wheter a developer is "fine-grain" or "acutance" depends on several things, one important factor is dilution. At the higher dilution HC-110 gives almost as much acutance as Rodinal, without the accompanying speed loss.
IMO (this could set off a religious war) there are many developers that are better than Rodinal for high acutance, like FX-2 or "Beutler's". The main advantage of Rodinal is the convenience of a highly concentrated developer with very long shelf life. After I got hold of some liters of Ilfotec HC very cheap I doubt I'll ever finish my bottle of Rodinal...
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