Steven Lee
Member
I never tried Colorperfect, but another tool to consider is Negmaster. It gives me similar output to manual inversions, but much faster. Here's a sample of Fuji C200:
It's a Photoshop plugin. I don't think it supports Lightroom, sadly.
It works like this. You open Photoshop. Load the raw 16bit/channel LINEAR positive you got from Vuescan in Photoshop. Then, you load Colorperfect (while still in Photoshop) and invert. You can do some adjustments inside Colorperfect (eg making sure you have no clipping at either end of the histogram); once you're happy, you'd then commit your changes. Your inverted image appears in Photoshop. You can then use Photoshop as you'd usually do to prepare your final image (eg remove dust, resize, save to 8bit/channel jpeg).
I never tried Colorperfect, but another tool to consider is Negmaster. It gives me similar output to manual inversions, but much faster. Here's a sample of Fuji C200:
View attachment 326516
Steven: It's hard to analyze a snowy landscape scene to determine if the colors look normal. Do you have a photo conversion with people and generally normal colors?
I never tried Colorperfect, but another tool to consider is Negmaster. It gives me similar output to manual inversions, but much faster. Here's a sample of Fuji C200:
View attachment 326516
Folks who love photoshop will like negmaster. I hate working in photoshop. Everything Adobe is such a convoluted pain in the ass... I just want to get it done in one program, simply, and not have to deal with opening this and converting to that and whatever the hell is going on to get from one Adobe product to another.
I never tried Colorperfect, but another tool to consider is Negmaster. It gives me similar output to manual inversions, but much faster. Here's a sample of Fuji C200:
View attachment 326516
I use Photoshop. I don't understand your comment. Why is it a convoluted pain in the ass? Why do you need to use more than one product? Which other Adobe products are you referring to? I only use Adobe Photoshop. I need nothing else.
He is referring to Negmaster workflow. It requires you to apply a custom DCP profile to a RAW file before opening it in Photoshop. To apply a DCP profile you have to use either a Lightroom or Adobe Bridge, so Photoshop alone isn't enough.
I use Photoshop. I don't understand your comment. Why is it a convoluted pain in the ass? Why do you need to use more than one product? Which other Adobe products are you referring to? I only use Adobe Photoshop. I need nothing else. I hardly know what Lightroom is for. I use PS to 0.0001% of its capabilities, and only to:
a) call the specialised plugin (in my case, Colorperfect) which will invert my negative
b) remove any dust, adjust black point to taste, crop, resize, save to external hd
That's all.
Personally, I like hybrid photography also because I hate spending hours on the computer. My photo needs to be in the negative, and the key to minimise computer time is to optimise exposure and development, just like darkroom buffs used to do in real darkooms. No amount of advanced Photoshop+Lightroom+Cooltool1+Cooltool2 will turn a turd negative into a great digital image (for my taste, others might disagree).
If I get exposure and development right, it's a 60 seconds job in Photoshop.
If a negative takes me more than 60 seconds to turn into a finished image once it's been digitized, for my taste it was a cr*p negative. Scrap and start over.
I use Photoshop. I don't understand your comment. Why is it a convoluted pain in the ass? Why do you need to use more than one product? Which other Adobe products are you referring to? I only use Adobe Photoshop. I need nothing else. I hardly know what Lightroom is for. I use PS to 0.0001% of its capabilities, and only to:
a) call the specialised plugin (in my case, Colorperfect) which will invert my negative
b) remove any dust, adjust black point to taste, crop, resize, save to external hd
That's all.
Personally, I like hybrid photography also because I hate spending hours on the computer. My photo needs to be in the negative, and the key to minimise computer time is to optimise exposure and development, just like darkroom buffs used to do in real darkooms. No amount of advanced Photoshop+Lightroom+Cooltool1+Cooltool2 will turn a turd negative into a great digital image (for my taste, others might disagree).
If I get exposure and development right, it's a 60 seconds job in Photoshop.
If a negative takes me more than 60 seconds to turn into a finished image once it's been digitized, for my taste it was a cr*p negative. Scrap and start over.
What negative color film do you use so simply?
Do you have samples of Colorperfect results?
No, with negmaster you have to pull it into lightroom, do some fiddling, get a half-baked file, then move that over to photoshop, do more fiddling...
It's work. Too many steps, too much time. WAY more than 60 seconds and a whole lot of screwing around with various settings
Expecting this to take less than 60 seconds is just bizarre.
Your negative is not some kind of complete work of art, it is almost literally a half-baked intermediate image. You are not done. You have to decide on final color palette, and shadows/midtones/highlight balance,
Here are a selection of mine:
Yellow in Green by atomstitcher, on Flickr
Three Oaks by atomstitcher, on Flickr
Conversations by atomstitcher, on Flickr
--- by atomstitcher, on Flickr
--- by atomstitcher, on Flickr
@GLS fantastic work as usual
Such a beautiful colour palette!
I beg to differ. Art is not written in stone. For me, the fun in photography happens before pressing the shutter. What I enjoy in photography is the search of a composition or a particular light pattern.
If one has found how to expose and develop a negative in a way that allows them to spend the least in front of a computer, and one likes the idea of doing this, why not pursue this path?
I am not arguing about what is enjoyable and what isn't. I am simply pointing out that expecting a computer to guess what colors palette and contrast level you want from a negative in under 60 seconds is just naive.
What I'm saying is that it is perfectly possible to be able to minimize the time spent going from inversion to obtaining exactly the colours one wants.
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