Explain slide film to newbie

[nickrapak]

If anyone's getting rid of film, I'll take it. 35mm,120,130,828, it doesn't matter!

 

[Diapositivo]

The word "roll" is used sometime to mean any kind of film which is not plane film (135, 120, 126, APS, whatever) but, in a more strict usage, it seems to me that "roll" is used by somebody to specifically mean a 120/220 roll.

That's why I try to use "cartridge" to avoid misunderstandings.

In any case, the other four 120 rolls of the 5-pack should be perfectly good (usable and sellable, or giveable as a gift) if they have not been exposed to light.

Your best option is to freeze all the 120 rolls and wait for the GAS* to catch you.

Fabrizio

* Gear Acquisition Syndrome, a pernicious form of illness which is highly correlated with APUG attendance.

 

[yohimbe2]

The word "roll" is used sometime to mean any kind of film which is not plane film (135, 120, 126, APS, whatever) but, in a more strict usage, it seems to me that "roll" is used by somebody to specifically mean a 120/220 roll.

That's why I try to use "cartridge" to avoid misunderstandings.

In any case, the other four 120 rolls of the 5-pack should be perfectly good (usable and sellable, or giveable as a gift) if they have not been exposed to light.

Your best option is to freeze all the 120 rolls and wait for the GAS* to catch you.

Fabrizio

* Gear Acquisition Syndrome, a pernicious form of illness which is highly correlated with APUG attendance.

I bought a n90s, Pentax k1000 three lenses, and then the f5. Are there any other old cameras worth buying? Seems fun to start collecting them.

In fact, the people at my office like the pictures with my Pentax so much, we are having a contest. I am lending the camera to four people next week to see who can get the best shot. (with the camera as the model) any ideas?

 

[Diapositivo]

I bought a n90s, Pentax k1000 three lenses, and then the f5. Are there any other old cameras worth buying? Seems fun to start collecting them.

As far as price/quality relation is concerned I think there is no better collection than the Minolta SR system (manual focus, also called MD, or MC/MD system). You can find cameras of all sort, from the entirely mechanic SrT (produced for a long time) to the more electronic ones of the late times (the most modern being the X-700, or the XD-7). If you need a camera with interchangeable viewfinder, you can buy a Minolta XK which is a very good piece of equipment.

Minolta manual focus lenses are normally of exceptional quality and can normally be found for a very small price. The only exceptions are the rare ones (shift lens, VFC lens) which are very expensive (I had to buy a Nikon FE and could add a Nikon 35 PC and a Schneider Kreuznach 28 PC for the sum it would take to buy the Rokkor shift lens).

 

[Erik Petersson]

Are there any other old cameras worth buying?

There are hundreds if not thousands of threads in APUG about old cameras worth buying. There was roughly one hundred years of high end film camera production before digital took off. Many highly specialized and/or professional cameras were sold for fractions of their previous price when most pro's switched, so that we, the hobbyists, now can afford them.

This is one of the reasons why it is fun with film. You can buy pro stuff for pocket money. But personally I enjoy things like 1930:ies folding cameras or Soviet rangefinders. (This is not for everyone.)

An SLR like your Nikons is a perfect starting point. Many people try medium format at some point, some try large format. Most equipment is fairly cheep, so just try what seems fun.

/Erik

 

[Roger Cole]

What are you shooting in the Pentax that has your co-workers liking the photos? Consumer color negative film (prints?)

Have you tried black and white? Are you interested in trying black and white? You'd almost certainly have to send it out to get quality processing, and finding good black and white labs (I hear) can be difficult. Most of us who love black and white do it ourselves. Any interest in doing your own darkroom work? There's a ton of fun and even more creativity to be added in doing your own printing, and equipment these days is very cheap, but it does take a place you can set it up and keep light out, and it takes a certain commitment in time both initially and on going.

Cameras - well, there's a ton of bodies and lenses compatible with both your Pentax and Nikons - meaning you can buy lots of other lenses to use on them, and other bodies to use the same lenses. Nikon is so vast I'll let the Nikon users comment there. For the Pentax, there's the pro quality LX. I have one and it's a great camera, but not cheap. For less than another K1000 you can buy an MX. I have one of those too and it's a GREAT all manual camera. Probably my single favorite of my 35mm bodies (but don't tell the LX!)

I second the motion to freeze or at least refrigerate the Velvia 120 (Velvia does not keep well past expiration if not cold stored) for the day you get into medium format. I shoot all three, 35mm, medium and large format, and if I had to limit myself to one it would be medium. I have a more expensive, much more modern and advanced medium format camera but my favorite is still probably my Yashicamat 124. I paid $158 for it on eBay, it's small (for medium format) easy to carry, a lot of fun to use, and produces excellent photos. Carrying around a Twin Lens Reflex (this type of camera) also gets a lot of attention, comments of "cool camera!" and smiles from just about everybody.

There's a huge world of film and cameras, as people above said. That can be a trap though, if you get so into trying everything all at once that you don't get really familiar and competent with any of them.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

The word "roll" is used sometime to mean any kind of film which is not plane film (135, 120, 126, APS, whatever) but, in a more strict usage, it seems to me that "roll" is used by somebody to specifically mean a 120/220 roll.

That's why I try to use "cartridge" to avoid misunderstandings.

In any case, the other four 120 rolls of the 5-pack should be perfectly good (usable and sellable, or giveable as a gift) if they have not been exposed to light.

Your best option is to freeze all the 120 rolls and wait for the GAS* to catch you.

Fabrizio

* Gear Acquisition Syndrome, a pernicious form of illness which is highly correlated with APUG attendance.

Hell, I've had GAS for the past four decades.

For the OP, get a Rolleiflex and a superslide projector. Velvia superslides.....

 

[Roger Cole]

The Rolleiflex will cost you, for a good one, but can't argue with the recommendation!

 

[PhotoJim]

That's why I try to use "cartridge" to avoid misunderstandings.

I'm not sure that avoids misunderstandings. To me, "cartridge" implies physical plastic cartridges like 110 or 126 film.

I just call it "35mm film" and the only ambiguity I seem to risk would be with the motion picture crowd. If I accidentally end up with a 400' roll of Eastman Double-X there are worse things.

 

[ME Super]

If you're shooting slides, you must try projection at least once. You can pick up a used projector on The Big Auction Site for next to nothing - I got one for my parents for about $40 shipped.

I dug my projector out last night, took it outside, and projected on the side of the garage. It's an el-cheapo Vivitar projector with a plastic lens. Digital projection with its crappy low resolution (<2 MP equivalent) can't hold a candle to this inexpensive projector. When you project analog, you can step up closer to the screen and see more detail, not bigger pixels.

 

[yohimbe2]

What are you shooting in the Pentax that has your co-workers liking the photos? Consumer color negative film (prints?)
Have you tried black and white? Are you interested in trying black and white? You'd almost certainly have to send it out to get quality processing, and finding good black and white labs (I hear) can be difficult. Most of us who love black and white do it ourselves. Any interest in doing your own darkroom work? There's a ton of fun and even more creativity to be added in doing your own printing, and equipment these days is very cheap, but it does take a place you can set it up and keep light out, and it takes a certain commitment in time both initially and on going.

Cameras - well, there's a ton of bodies and lenses compatible with both your Pentax and Nikons - meaning you can buy lots of other lenses to use on them, and other bodies to use the same lenses. Nikon is so vast I'll let the Nikon users comment there. For the Pentax, there's the pro quality LX. I have one and it's a great camera, but not cheap. For less than another K1000 you can buy an MX. I have one of those too and it's a GREAT all manual camera. Probably my single favorite of my 35mm bodies (but don't tell the LX!)

I second the motion to freeze or at least refrigerate the Velvia 120 (Velvia does not keep well past expiration if not cold stored) for the day you get into medium format. I shoot all three, 35mm, medium and large format, and if I had to limit myself to one it would be medium. I have a more expensive, much more modern and advanced medium format camera but my favorite is still probably my Yashicamat 124. I paid $158 for it on eBay, it's small (for medium format) easy to carry, a lot of fun to use, and produces excellent photos. Carrying around a Twin Lens Reflex (this type of camera) also gets a lot of attention, comments of "cool camera!" and smiles from just about everybody.

There's a huge world of film and cameras, as people above said. That can be a trap though, if you get so into trying everything all at once that you don't get really familiar and competent with any of them.

Have you tried black and white

Yep, but I'll be honest, I'm quite confused. There are black and whites that some will develop and other they wont. I got a roll of film that was highly recomended that was quite noisy.. (perhaps an intended effect?)


Any interest in doing your own darkroom work?

I've thought about it but have too many hobbies. I might have to pass on this.


What are you shooting in the Pentax that has your co-workers liking the photos? Consumer color negative film

I have a few digital pictures of my son holding the K1000 and people were very impressed with my prints. All of the digital cameras today look the same, the old ones stick out.....Especially the brown leatherette of my K1000. We have a large group of "learning amateur photographers" in my office. We all share pictures , go on group shots and challenge each other. The latest challenge was a thought from a coworker that asked if we could all borrow the camera for a day for a little contest. (6-7 contestants)

Any ideas how to win?


Penn Cameras in Tysons Corner is developing my first roll of velvia and I'm all over ebay looking for a projecter. Any I should avoid? I cant wait to see this film developed ! Man this fil thing has a little excitement factor....The anticipation of waiting for film to develop and the extra work is tons of fun. Too bad it's so expensive.

 

[MattKing]

"I'm all over ebay looking for a projecter. Any I should avoid?"

I'd recommend a Kodak Carousel or Ektagraphic projector. They are durable, there were hundreds of thousands (millions or tens of millions?) of them in use and lamps and trays and lenses and accessories should be easy to find.

I see them regularly on our local Craigslist. A "Want to Buy" Craigslist listing will probably attract interest.

 

[Diapositivo]

Things to look at in projectors:

Lamp power: It's normally either 150W or 250W.
250W makes a more brilliant light. Generally useful, especially useful if projecting in large rooms.

More heat. Heat => slide stress, slide bending, bigger fan possibly more noisy, possibly something breaking more easily, more heat in the room etc.

A 250W projector needs to be more carefully designed than a 150W. You cannot put a 250W lamp into a projector designed for 150W you will melt plastic parts easily. My slide projector has a 150W and I find it very satisfying.

Projectors normally have a standard "thread" for optics. Optics tend to be interchangeable. So you can buy a good projector without worrying too much about the lens, you can buy a better lens later.

The focal length of a projector lens determines the size of the image projected. Given a certain desired screen dimension and a certain desired distance from the screen, the focal length is a given. The more you keep the projector away from the screen, the larger the image, the less bright the image. The normal lens is good for a normal projection in a normal living room with a normal screen. A "zoom" lens allows projections in very different rooms without changing lens. I wouldn't go for a zoom lens.

If you intend to use medium format in the future you might shop around for a 6x6 or 6x7 slide projector as well.

Slides which are not mounted within glasses tend to bend after some seconds (around 6 or 8 seconds with my projector, 135mm slides) after the beginning of the slide projection. The bending takes the centre of the slide OUT of focus. You can manually refocus the centre, but the edges of the slides will slightly be out of focus. So the optimal projection quality lasts for only 6 seconds or so. If your projection of a slide lasts more than that, you have to refocus manually at every slide. That's very boring. As an alternative to focusing on the lens you can normally focus manually with a remote controller (usually wired to the projector) so that you can sit and talk and adjust focus easily. It's the same remote controller which lets you change the slide. It's boring in any case.

Remedies to this problem:

- An "autofocus" projector. That's a very nice kind of autofocus. As soon as the slide bends, the projector refocuses the image; I strongly suggest you shop for an autofocus projector.

- Mounting slides within glasses. Expensive, risky conservation, but better projection.

- Leitz/Leica made a lens with a predetermined curvature of field. The slide is "pre-heated" in the Leica projector, it arrives in front of the lens already bent, and the entire image will be correctly focused on the screen. Never seen in real life, only read about. I would say this is good stuff.

- I suppose somebody might produce a modern cold lamp (fluorescent, LED or what) with the same mount for a slide projector. That would be VERY interesting as it would eliminate all the problems related to heat during projection.

The lamp is fragile when it is hot. Don't touch it (it's VERY hot) and don't move the projector before the lamp has had the time to cool down.

The slides have to be put in a loader, there are three main standards:

Straight loader. That normally keeps 50 slides per loader. It's the most diffused.
Circular loader. That keeps many more slides and allows a "never ending" projection, it's especially useful for unattended projections in musea etc.
Compact loader. That's a loader invented by AGFA, much smaller, keeps 40 slides and the slides don't fall even if you invert the loader.

Slide projectors are usually compatible with the straight type. Kodak Carousel and certain Leica projectors use the circulars ones. Some projectors can use both the circular ones and the straight ones. Some projectors can use both the straight ones and the compact ones.

The screen should be opened at least one hour before the projection so that all the plies will have the time to iron out. Take one of those screens with springs which keep the screen in tension when opened.

Don't be deterred by what said above. Even with all the complication a slide projection is the best way to see an image.

Fabrizio

PS My slide projector is a Zeiss Ikon Perkeo bought in 1989 or so, Autofocus, 150W, works very well, recommended.

 

[wogster]

The word "roll" is used sometime to mean any kind of film which is not plane film (135, 120, 126, APS, whatever) but, in a more strict usage, it seems to me that "roll" is used by somebody to specifically mean a 120/220 roll.

That's why I try to use "cartridge" to avoid misunderstandings.

In any case, the other four 120 rolls of the 5-pack should be perfectly good (usable and sellable, or giveable as a gift) if they have not been exposed to light.

Your best option is to freeze all the 120 rolls and wait for the GAS* to catch you.

Fabrizio

* Gear Acquisition Syndrome, a pernicious form of illness which is highly correlated with APUG attendance.

Roll film, means any film sold rolled up, that is anything but sheet film or plates, the issue is that if you go back to the 1950's and 1960's there were about 65 different sizes of roll film, not including 135. There even was a 110 size roll film (discontinued in 1929), a number that later (1972) referred to a drop in cartridge film. The best way to refer to it, is to include the size, for example 10 rolls of 120 or 10 rolls of 135. Although 135 was often sold in different lengths (12,20,24 and 36 exposure) so you could also refer to it as 10 rolls of 135x24 to be specific.

 

[bvy]

A hugely entertaining and educational thread. Thank you.

 

[EdoNork]

Compact loader. That's a loader invented by AGFA, much smaller, keeps 40 slides and the slides don't fall even if you invert the loader.

The AGFA CS System (Compact System) can handle up to 100 slides per tray. Extensively used in Europe.

 

[Roger Cole]

Have you tried black and white

Yep, but I'll be honest, I'm quite confused. There are black and whites that some will develop and other they wont. I got a roll of film that was highly recomended that was quite noisy.. (perhaps an intended effect?)


Any interest in doing your own darkroom work?

I've thought about it but have too many hobbies. I might have to pass on this.


What are you shooting in the Pentax that has your co-workers liking the photos? Consumer color negative film

I have a few digital pictures of my son holding the K1000 and people were very impressed with my prints. All of the digital cameras today look the same, the old ones stick out.....Especially the brown leatherette of my K1000. We have a large group of "learning amateur photographers" in my office. We all share pictures , go on group shots and challenge each other. The latest challenge was a thought from a coworker that asked if we could all borrow the camera for a day for a little contest. (6-7 contestants)

Any ideas how to win?


Penn Cameras in Tysons Corner is developing my first roll of velvia and I'm all over ebay looking for a projecter. Any I should avoid? I cant wait to see this film developed ! Man this fil thing has a little excitement factor....The anticipation of waiting for film to develop and the extra work is tons of fun. Too bad it's so expensive.

To address just the black and white - here's the thing you probably ran into. There are two black and white films on the market, one made by Kodak and one by Ilford, that are what's called "chromegenic" black and white. Basically they are color films but where normal color films have three or more layers sensitive to different colors of light, and when processed the silver is bleached out and replaced by dyes of a complimentary color (for negatives) or same color (for slides) formed in each layer of the film, these chromogenic black and white films are sensitive to all colors and have only one dye layer after processing, a black one. They are processed in the same chemicals as regular color negatives. The give EXCELLENT negatives, which scan better than traditional black and white but also print superbly in the dark room. That may be what you found, as it can be processed anywhere that does color negatives. But while they can develop the negatives the prints are usually made on color paper and depending on the equipment and skill of the printer can have an unwanted color cast. You can print them or have them printed on regular black and white paper, though. These films are Ilford XP-2 Super (there was an older version without the "Super") and Kodak TMAX BW400CN. All other black and white films have to be processed in regular black and white chemicals, which is actually easier (lower and less critical temperatures) and more versatile (much more room for different effects with different developers, expanding or contracting contrast etc.) but not nearly as commercially available. Most of us who love black and white just do it ourselves.

There are some points in between being fully into darkroom work and sending everything out. I'll write more about that when I have more time, if others don't beat me to it.

 

[MattKing]

This is a really good post. The only thing I would add to it is that Kodak (and others) also made "curved field" lenses - e.g. Ektanar C lenses.

And that slides in glass-less cardboard or plastic mounts are a lot lighter than slides in glass mounts.

If you think that doesn't matter, see my post above about sorting through 1,000 + rolls :confused:.

And that there are some circular trays that are different (and therefore incompatible with) Kodak Carousel projectors.

Things to look at in projectors:

Lamp power: It's normally either 150W or 250W.
250W makes a more brilliant light. Generally useful, especially useful if projecting in large rooms.

More heat. Heat => slide stress, slide bending, bigger fan possibly more noisy, possibly something breaking more easily, more heat in the room etc.

A 250W projector needs to be more carefully designed than a 150W. You cannot put a 250W lamp into a projector designed for 150W you will melt plastic parts easily. My slide projector has a 150W and I find it very satisfying.

Projectors normally have a standard "thread" for optics. Optics tend to be interchangeable. So you can buy a good projector without worrying too much about the lens, you can buy a better lens later.

The focal length of a projector lens determines the size of the image projected. Given a certain desired screen dimension and a certain desired distance from the screen, the focal length is a given. The more you keep the projector away from the screen, the larger the image, the less bright the image. The normal lens is good for a normal projection in a normal living room with a normal screen. A "zoom" lens allows projections in very different rooms without changing lens. I wouldn't go for a zoom lens.

If you intend to use medium format in the future you might shop around for a 6x6 or 6x7 slide projector as well.

Slides which are not mounted within glasses tend to bend after some seconds (around 6 or 8 seconds with my projector, 135mm slides) after the beginning of the slide projection. The bending takes the centre of the slide OUT of focus. You can manually refocus the centre, but the edges of the slides will slightly be out of focus. So the optimal projection quality lasts for only 6 seconds or so. If your projection of a slide lasts more than that, you have to refocus manually at every slide. That's very boring. As an alternative to focusing on the lens you can normally focus manually with a remote controller (usually wired to the projector) so that you can sit and talk and adjust focus easily. It's the same remote controller which lets you change the slide. It's boring in any case.

Remedies to this problem:

- An "autofocus" projector. That's a very nice kind of autofocus. As soon as the slide bends, the projector refocuses the image; I strongly suggest you shop for an autofocus projector.

- Mounting slides within glasses. Expensive, risky conservation, but better projection.

- Leitz/Leica made a lens with a predetermined curvature of field. The slide is "pre-heated" in the Leica projector, it arrives in front of the lens already bent, and the entire image will be correctly focused on the screen. Never seen in real life, only read about. I would say this is good stuff.

- I suppose somebody might produce a modern cold lamp (fluorescent, LED or what) with the same mount for a slide projector. That would be VERY interesting as it would eliminate all the problems related to heat during projection.

The lamp is fragile when it is hot. Don't touch it (it's VERY hot) and don't move the projector before the lamp has had the time to cool down.

The slides have to be put in a loader, there are three main standards:

Straight loader. That normally keeps 50 slides per loader. It's the most diffused.
Circular loader. That keeps many more slides and allows a "never ending" projection, it's especially useful for unattended projections in musea etc.
Compact loader. That's a loader invented by AGFA, much smaller, keeps 40 slides and the slides don't fall even if you invert the loader.

Slide projectors are usually compatible with the straight type. Kodak Carousel and certain Leica projectors use the circulars ones. Some projectors can use both the circular ones and the straight ones. Some projectors can use both the straight ones and the compact ones.

The screen should be opened at least one hour before the projection so that all the plies will have the time to iron out. Take one of those screens with springs which keep the screen in tension when opened.

Don't be deterred by what said above. Even with all the complication a slide projection is the best way to see an image.

Fabrizio

PS My slide projector is a Zeiss Ikon Perkeo bought in 1989 or so, Autofocus, 150W, works very well, recommended.

 

[ME Super]

Things to look at in projectors:

Lamp power: It's normally either 150W or 250W.
250W makes a more brilliant light. Generally useful, especially useful if projecting in large rooms.

More heat. Heat => slide stress, slide bending, bigger fan possibly more noisy, possibly something breaking more easily, more heat in the room etc.

A 250W projector needs to be more carefully designed than a 150W. You cannot put a 250W lamp into a projector designed for 150W you will melt plastic parts easily. My slide projector has a 150W and I find it very satisfying.

[snip]

Slides which are not mounted within glasses tend to bend after some seconds (around 6 or 8 seconds with my projector, 135mm slides) after the beginning of the slide projection. The bending takes the centre of the slide OUT of focus. You can manually refocus the centre, but the edges of the slides will slightly be out of focus. So the optimal projection quality lasts for only 6 seconds or so. If your projection of a slide lasts more than that, you have to refocus manually at every slide. That's very boring. As an alternative to focusing on the lens you can normally focus manually with a remote controller (usually wired to the projector) so that you can sit and talk and adjust focus easily. It's the same remote controller which lets you change the slide. It's boring in any case.

Remedies to this problem:

- An "autofocus" projector. That's a very nice kind of autofocus. As soon as the slide bends, the projector refocuses the image; I strongly suggest you shop for an autofocus projector.

[snip]

- I suppose somebody might produce a modern cold lamp (fluorescent, LED or what) with the same mount for a slide projector. That would be VERY interesting as it would eliminate all the problems related to heat during projection.
Don't be deterred by what said above. Even with all the complication a slide projection is the best way to see an image.

Fabrizio

My projector is a 150 watt Vivitar with Autofocus. The AF is very nice for when the slide pops. I was projecting on the side of the garage a couple nights ago with the projector about 20 feet away from the garage. Even the plastic optics of the Vivitar put d*g*t*l projectors to shame. You can step up to the screen/wall and see more detail with a slide projector. Do it with the other kind of projector and you get to see p*x*ls.

Probably gonna project on the side of the garage again tonight... My son just got his first roll EVER of slide film back from the lab. He's stoked.

 

[yohimbe2]

"I'm all over ebay looking for a projecter. Any I should avoid?"

I'd recommend a Kodak Carousel or Ektagraphic projector. They are durable, there were hundreds of thousands (millions or tens of millions?) of them in use and lamps and trays and lenses and accessories should be easy to find.

I see them regularly on our local Craigslist. A "Want to Buy" Craigslist listing will probably attract interest.

Thanks for the tip. My first roll of slide film (velvia 50) is being developed and I just odered a Kodak EKtagraphic III AMT Carousel Projector, with 153 Travel Slides

Good stuff? I cant wait to see my photos.

 

[MattKing]

Good choice - hope the slides are good too

PS: here is a link to the appropriate user manual: http://resources.kodak.com/support/pdf/en/manuals/slideProj/manual/ektg_iii.pdf

 

[Roger Cole]

You'll need a screen or at least a nice white (or as close as possible to white) wall. The lighter, whiter, and more even the better. Dedicated screens can be brighter but otherwise aren't that much better, just far more convenient. I have an old one the surface of which seems to be coming apart form age or something so thinking about replacing mine soon myself.

A hint for showing your slides to friends and family - slide shows got a bad reputation because people would put together shows of dozens to hundreds of their slides from some vacation and show them while droning on and putting everyone to sleep. "And here we are with an elephant...and here's uncle Henry drinking a beer at the pub...and...zzzzzzzz" Chose some of your very best slides, and it helps if there's a place you can easily darken that you can leave the projector set up so people can just quickly and easily view them, and show no more than, say, 20 really impressive images at a time. A dozen is better. Leave them wanting to come back later to see more, not bored by every possible slide so that the good ones are diluted.

 

[Diapositivo]

I agree with the importance of choosing what to project. If it's a travel projection, it must tell a story. You must talk about the where and why of each picture, and there must be a thread, a narration of your trip. This means that 95% of your picture must be about the places, the local people, the local situations. Not your spouse in front of a sequence of landmarks

The problem with slide projections is the lack of meaning for the spectators if they didn't belong to the trip. I've seen slide projections of people who went to the see and told "here we are at the X beach on the Y island" and "here we are at the Z beach on the W coast". It's just people on the beach continuously, and the restaurants where they ate, and the description of what was good and bad, and you are bound to fall asleep. Consider the dark room, the closed windows, the heat from the projectors... everything conspire for a general sleep!

So my advice is to build, with your projection, a travel diary which is about the places not about you, and to know about the places, and to tell things about them (anecdotes, historical facts, contemporary problems or controversies regarding a statue, a theatre, whatever). You basically have to have a cultural interest for the things you photograph and being able to transmit it to your public.

I think a projection should last between 20 minutes and 40 minutes. A slide is probably in projection, on average, around 10 or 15 seconds depending on how elaborated is your comment. Say you gathered 200 slides to project this is good for around half an hour of projection.

If your images are carefully chosen and make a sense as a series, your public will be interested and entertained, and they will thank you for the projection.

If a projection really has to last more than 30 or 40 minutes, make an interval half way, open windows, bring your hosts in the garden if you have it, whatever, serve an aperitivo, break the time. People cannot remain concentrated for a long time while sitting in silence. Theatre and Opera do make use of "acts" (with intervals) for a reason.

 

[yohimbe2]

To all that have been helping out, thank you for taking the time to post such well written advice. I have many hobbies, and spend much time on forums. Never have I seen responses like this ! I have a feeling Ive stumbled into something special here with film.

As far as a projector goes, I can't say I really planned to show anyone other than myself the pictures. When I bought velvia, I had no idea what I was getting myself into! Who knows, maybe film slides on a big wall will beat out my digital side of the hobby.

thanks again all---- The people here are top notch !

 

[Diapositivo]

thanks again all---- The people here are top notch !

You bet, or I wouldn't be seen hanging around here