If anyone's getting rid of film, I'll take it. 35mm,120,130,828, it doesn't matter!
The word "roll" is used sometime to mean any kind of film which is not plane film (135, 120, 126, APS, whatever) but, in a more strict usage, it seems to me that "roll" is used by somebody to specifically mean a 120/220 roll.
That's why I try to use "cartridge" to avoid misunderstandings.
In any case, the other four 120 rolls of the 5-pack should be perfectly good (usable and sellable, or giveable as a gift) if they have not been exposed to light.
Your best option is to freeze all the 120 rolls and wait for the GAS* to catch you.
Fabrizio
* Gear Acquisition Syndrome, a pernicious form of illness which is highly correlated with APUG attendance.
I bought a n90s, Pentax k1000 three lenses, and then the f5. Are there any other old cameras worth buying? Seems fun to start collecting them.
Are there any other old cameras worth buying?
The word "roll" is used sometime to mean any kind of film which is not plane film (135, 120, 126, APS, whatever) but, in a more strict usage, it seems to me that "roll" is used by somebody to specifically mean a 120/220 roll.
That's why I try to use "cartridge" to avoid misunderstandings.
In any case, the other four 120 rolls of the 5-pack should be perfectly good (usable and sellable, or giveable as a gift) if they have not been exposed to light.
Your best option is to freeze all the 120 rolls and wait for the GAS* to catch you.
Fabrizio
* Gear Acquisition Syndrome, a pernicious form of illness which is highly correlated with APUG attendance.
That's why I try to use "cartridge" to avoid misunderstandings.
What are you shooting in the Pentax that has your co-workers liking the photos? Consumer color negative film (prints?)
Have you tried black and white? Are you interested in trying black and white? You'd almost certainly have to send it out to get quality processing, and finding good black and white labs (I hear) can be difficult. Most of us who love black and white do it ourselves. Any interest in doing your own darkroom work? There's a ton of fun and even more creativity to be added in doing your own printing, and equipment these days is very cheap, but it does take a place you can set it up and keep light out, and it takes a certain commitment in time both initially and on going.
Cameras - well, there's a ton of bodies and lenses compatible with both your Pentax and Nikons - meaning you can buy lots of other lenses to use on them, and other bodies to use the same lenses. Nikon is so vast I'll let the Nikon users comment there. For the Pentax, there's the pro quality LX. I have one and it's a great camera, but not cheap. For less than another K1000 you can buy an MX. I have one of those too and it's a GREAT all manual camera. Probably my single favorite of my 35mm bodies (but don't tell the LX!)
I second the motion to freeze or at least refrigerate the Velvia 120 (Velvia does not keep well past expiration if not cold stored) for the day you get into medium format. I shoot all three, 35mm, medium and large format, and if I had to limit myself to one it would be medium. I have a more expensive, much more modern and advanced medium format camera but my favorite is still probably my Yashicamat 124. I paid $158 for it on eBay, it's small (for medium format) easy to carry, a lot of fun to use, and produces excellent photos. Carrying around a Twin Lens Reflex (this type of camera) also gets a lot of attention, comments of "cool camera!" and smiles from just about everybody.
There's a huge world of film and cameras, as people above said. That can be a trap though, if you get so into trying everything all at once that you don't get really familiar and competent with any of them.
The word "roll" is used sometime to mean any kind of film which is not plane film (135, 120, 126, APS, whatever) but, in a more strict usage, it seems to me that "roll" is used by somebody to specifically mean a 120/220 roll.
That's why I try to use "cartridge" to avoid misunderstandings.
In any case, the other four 120 rolls of the 5-pack should be perfectly good (usable and sellable, or giveable as a gift) if they have not been exposed to light.
Your best option is to freeze all the 120 rolls and wait for the GAS* to catch you.
Fabrizio
* Gear Acquisition Syndrome, a pernicious form of illness which is highly correlated with APUG attendance.
Compact loader. That's a loader invented by AGFA, much smaller, keeps 40 slides and the slides don't fall even if you invert the loader.
Have you tried black and white
Yep, but I'll be honest, I'm quite confused. There are black and whites that some will develop and other they wont. I got a roll of film that was highly recomended that was quite noisy.. (perhaps an intended effect?)
Any interest in doing your own darkroom work?
I've thought about it but have too many hobbies. I might have to pass on this.
What are you shooting in the Pentax that has your co-workers liking the photos? Consumer color negative film
I have a few digital pictures of my son holding the K1000 and people were very impressed with my prints. All of the digital cameras today look the same, the old ones stick out.....Especially the brown leatherette of my K1000. We have a large group of "learning amateur photographers" in my office. We all share pictures , go on group shots and challenge each other. The latest challenge was a thought from a coworker that asked if we could all borrow the camera for a day for a little contest. (6-7 contestants)
Any ideas how to win?
Penn Cameras in Tysons Corner is developing my first roll of velvia and I'm all over ebay looking for a projecter. Any I should avoid? I cant wait to see this film developed ! Man this fil thing has a little excitement factor....The anticipation of waiting for film to develop and the extra work is tons of fun. Too bad it's so expensive.
Things to look at in projectors:
Lamp power: It's normally either 150W or 250W.
250W makes a more brilliant light. Generally useful, especially useful if projecting in large rooms.
More heat. Heat => slide stress, slide bending, bigger fan possibly more noisy, possibly something breaking more easily, more heat in the room etc.
A 250W projector needs to be more carefully designed than a 150W. You cannot put a 250W lamp into a projector designed for 150W you will melt plastic parts easily. My slide projector has a 150W and I find it very satisfying.
Projectors normally have a standard "thread" for optics. Optics tend to be interchangeable. So you can buy a good projector without worrying too much about the lens, you can buy a better lens later.
The focal length of a projector lens determines the size of the image projected. Given a certain desired screen dimension and a certain desired distance from the screen, the focal length is a given. The more you keep the projector away from the screen, the larger the image, the less bright the image. The normal lens is good for a normal projection in a normal living room with a normal screen. A "zoom" lens allows projections in very different rooms without changing lens. I wouldn't go for a zoom lens.
If you intend to use medium format in the future you might shop around for a 6x6 or 6x7 slide projector as well.
Slides which are not mounted within glasses tend to bend after some seconds (around 6 or 8 seconds with my projector, 135mm slides) after the beginning of the slide projection. The bending takes the centre of the slide OUT of focus. You can manually refocus the centre, but the edges of the slides will slightly be out of focus. So the optimal projection quality lasts for only 6 seconds or so. If your projection of a slide lasts more than that, you have to refocus manually at every slide. That's very boring. As an alternative to focusing on the lens you can normally focus manually with a remote controller (usually wired to the projector) so that you can sit and talk and adjust focus easily. It's the same remote controller which lets you change the slide. It's boring in any case.
Remedies to this problem:
- An "autofocus" projector. That's a very nice kind of autofocus. As soon as the slide bends, the projector refocuses the image; I strongly suggest you shop for an autofocus projector.
- Mounting slides within glasses. Expensive, risky conservation, but better projection.
- Leitz/Leica made a lens with a predetermined curvature of field. The slide is "pre-heated" in the Leica projector, it arrives in front of the lens already bent, and the entire image will be correctly focused on the screen. Never seen in real life, only read about. I would say this is good stuff.
- I suppose somebody might produce a modern cold lamp (fluorescent, LED or what) with the same mount for a slide projector. That would be VERY interesting as it would eliminate all the problems related to heat during projection.
The lamp is fragile when it is hot. Don't touch it (it's VERY hot) and don't move the projector before the lamp has had the time to cool down.
The slides have to be put in a loader, there are three main standards:
Straight loader. That normally keeps 50 slides per loader. It's the most diffused.
Circular loader. That keeps many more slides and allows a "never ending" projection, it's especially useful for unattended projections in musea etc.
Compact loader. That's a loader invented by AGFA, much smaller, keeps 40 slides and the slides don't fall even if you invert the loader.
Slide projectors are usually compatible with the straight type. Kodak Carousel and certain Leica projectors use the circulars ones. Some projectors can use both the circular ones and the straight ones. Some projectors can use both the straight ones and the compact ones.
The screen should be opened at least one hour before the projection so that all the plies will have the time to iron out. Take one of those screens with springs which keep the screen in tension when opened.
Don't be deterred by what said above. Even with all the complication a slide projection is the best way to see an image.
Fabrizio
PS My slide projector is a Zeiss Ikon Perkeo bought in 1989 or so, Autofocus, 150W, works very well, recommended.
Things to look at in projectors:
Lamp power: It's normally either 150W or 250W.
250W makes a more brilliant light. Generally useful, especially useful if projecting in large rooms.
More heat. Heat => slide stress, slide bending, bigger fan possibly more noisy, possibly something breaking more easily, more heat in the room etc.
A 250W projector needs to be more carefully designed than a 150W. You cannot put a 250W lamp into a projector designed for 150W you will melt plastic parts easily. My slide projector has a 150W and I find it very satisfying.
[snip]
Slides which are not mounted within glasses tend to bend after some seconds (around 6 or 8 seconds with my projector, 135mm slides) after the beginning of the slide projection. The bending takes the centre of the slide OUT of focus. You can manually refocus the centre, but the edges of the slides will slightly be out of focus. So the optimal projection quality lasts for only 6 seconds or so. If your projection of a slide lasts more than that, you have to refocus manually at every slide. That's very boring. As an alternative to focusing on the lens you can normally focus manually with a remote controller (usually wired to the projector) so that you can sit and talk and adjust focus easily. It's the same remote controller which lets you change the slide. It's boring in any case.
Remedies to this problem:
- An "autofocus" projector. That's a very nice kind of autofocus. As soon as the slide bends, the projector refocuses the image; I strongly suggest you shop for an autofocus projector.
[snip]
- I suppose somebody might produce a modern cold lamp (fluorescent, LED or what) with the same mount for a slide projector. That would be VERY interesting as it would eliminate all the problems related to heat during projection.
Don't be deterred by what said above. Even with all the complication a slide projection is the best way to see an image.
Fabrizio
"I'm all over ebay looking for a projecter. Any I should avoid?"
I'd recommend a Kodak Carousel or Ektagraphic projector. They are durable, there were hundreds of thousands (millions or tens of millions?) of them in use and lamps and trays and lenses and accessories should be easy to find.
I see them regularly on our local Craigslist. A "Want to Buy" Craigslist listing will probably attract interest.
thanks again all---- The people here are top notch !
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