Enlarger lens questions

[Miquel Julia]

I just bought an LPL B&W enlarger after 30 years and now I need to buy a 75/80mm lens

I thought I had some objective for 6x6 format but it has not been like that

I am undecided between the Nikkor EL 75mm, the Rodenstock Rogonar S 75mm f4 and the Minolta CE 80mm f5.6. In principle I want to make copies of a maximum of 30x40 cm


I need some opinion on the quality of these objectives to be able to make a decision

Thank You

 

[Arthurwg]

I also use the LPL enlarger, with a Nikkor 80mm. Great set-up.

 

[Martin Rickards]

I'd recommend the Minolta CE purely because it's the one MF enlarging lens I've got. It's OK for upto 6x7.

 

[bdial]

Of those three, the Minolta is probably the sharpest, but I have never made or seen a comparison to prove that.
I have the Minolta, and I can confirm that it performs very well.

 

[Miquel Julia]

Thank you all, the Nikkor 80mm has very good reviews. I also take it into account but right now the price at which it can be obtained is at my limit

Before asking, I tried to find out about the quality of the different Schneider and Rodenstock series that I had completely forgotten about and I discovered the Minolta, which has very good opinions.

There is a lot of literature about Nikkor lenses and if it is not to establish some type of comparison, I have no doubts about it.

The Rodenstock Rogonar S I did not know but it seems to be a good all-rounder

And perhaps the Minolta Rokkor CE is the lens that can best compare to the Nikkor 80mm.

 

[xkaes]

They are all fine lenses. Get whichever is in good shape and the least expensive. You won't notice any difference. I use Minolta, Schneider, Rodenstock, Fujinon, Yashica and other enlarging lenses.

The size of the print you make is irrelevant -- but try to use the lens at f8-11 for best results.

 

[Miquel Julia]

The size of the print you make is irrelevant -- but try to use the lens at f8-11 for best results.

Thank you very much, I have read that there are more suitable lenses for large enlargements but at the moment this is not the case, I will hardly make copies larger than 30x40cm

I think that for the few price differences I will buy the Minolta

 

[Paul Howell]

Minolta has always made good lens, even after selling their camera division to Sony they kept their lens factory, Konica Minolta still makes industrial lens.

 

[Pieter12]

Thank you very much, I have read that there are more suitable lenses for large enlargements but at the moment this is not the case, I will hardly make copies larger than 30x40cm

I think that for the few price differences I will buy the Minolta

To the contrary. You can use a longer focal length for small enlargement sizes and take advantage of using only the sweet spot of the lens. I routinely use a 135mm lens for 6x6 enlargements up to 11x14". However, a focal length shorter than 75 or 80mm will not cover your medium format negative without vignetting.

 

[brbo]

But don't get too long a lens since you won't be able to focus it (I'm assuming you have a 6x7 LPL enlarger). 135mm might already be too long...

 

[Arthurwg]

I use my Nikkor 80mm for pictures up to 20x24 in, with great success. But another you might consider is the 80mm Meopta Meogon S from the Czech Republic. Has a great reputation and not too expensive. Should be able to find one in the EU.

 

[Paul Howell]

I think all the lens OP is looking at are in the 75 to 80 range, I have the LPL 6700 and use a 75mm Wallensak or 80 MM Schneider without issue.

 

[John Koehrer]

Don't know if it makes a big difference but isn't the Rogunar a four element lens vs. the other two which are six element. FWIW, I've used Nikons for anything and always satisfied.

 

[xkaes]

I have read that there are more suitable lenses for large enlargements but at the moment this is not the case, I will hardly make copies larger than 30x40cm

Rodenstock and Schneider both make a series of lenses -- both labeled "G" -- for large prints -- but these are for LARGE prints, AKA murals. If you are going to routinely make prints larger than four feet, I'd recommend getting one.

 

[Pieter12]

I posted about using a 135 because the OP made a statement about "more suitable lenses for larger enlargements" but that would probably be a wide angle version of an 80 or 90mm lens.

I have used the 90mm Schenider APO Componon HM and 80mm Schneider Componon S, plus I have a 105mm Meopta and 105mm Beseler HD (a rebranded Rodagon). I print with a condenser set-up and my film is all processed in Rodinal so I value clarity and sharpness. To me, the 90mm APO Schneider is a bit better than the others, but lenses can vary even from the same maker and I would recommend a clean lens from pretty much any major brand.

 

[Pieter12]

Rodenstock and Schneider both make a series of lenses -- both labeled "G" -- for large prints -- but these are for LARGE prints, AKA murals. If you are going to routinely make prints larger than four feet, I'd recommend getting one.

Quite expensive lenses, and I don't think they are made any shorter than 150mm.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Rogonar is basically a low budget "student" lens, and the 75/f4 Nikon is probably the worst of that series. The 80/f5.6 El Nikkor is the one to get if you go with Nikon. I use that cheapo 75 El Nikkor for 35mm negs because only the center of the optic is used in that case, although you have to re-focus a bit one stop down due to its focal shift issue. The 75 might be so-so OK for 6x6 format; but I sure don't recommend it for 6X7 - it's a dog for that application. Frankly, I do all my own MF printing using either a 105 or 150 Apo Rodagon N, but those are distinctly expensive. At one time I used a 105 Componon S and 135 regular Rodagon for MF enlargement; but an El Nikkor 80 would be a fine choice up to 6x7 format. Many of these lenses are at such a bargain these days on the used market that you might as well get the best you can afford. Only the top tier Apo Rodagons and Schneider HM's still command high prices.

 

[Paul Howell]

When I taught Photography at a local community college one of the class projects was to have students make prints from 35mm and 6X6 negatives with 3, 4, 6 and one APO lens at 5X7, 8X10, 11X14, and 16 X 20 followed by blind viewing and rating for sharpness by random students and staff. The 3 element lens was clearly soft and just OK to 8X10. The 4 elements lens did as well as the 6 element and APO up to 11X14, at 16X20 the 6 element and the one APO were noticeable shaper with the APO top of the list. I use both 4 and 6 element lens, at 8X10 I cannot tell which lens I used, I use my 6 elements lens when printing 11X14.

 

[jtk]

When I taught Photography at a local community college one of the class projects was to have students make prints from 35mm and 6X6 negatives with 3, 4, 6 and one APO lens at 5X7, 8X10, 11X14, and 16 X 20 followed by blind viewing and rating for sharpness by random students and staff. The 3 element lens was clearly soft and just OK to 8X10. The 4 elements lens did as well as the 6 element and APO up to 11X14, at 16X20 the 6 element and the one APO were noticeable shaper with the APO top of the list. I use both 4 and 6 element lens, at 8X10 I cannot tell which lens I used, I use my 6 elements lens when printing 11X14.

What did it seem that the students learned from this exercise?

 

[xkaes]

Quite expensive lenses, and I don't think they are made any shorter than 150mm.

They are not cheap -- designed for very high magnifications -- that's the reason I suggested getting one only if you routinely make 4 foot or larger prints.

But they both came in a full range of focal lengths. I use a G-Componon 150mm f5.6 for my 4x5" murals, and a Rodagon-G 50mm f2.8 for my 35mm murals.

This topic reminds me that I've got to make some more panoramas one of these days.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Rodagon G's are special application lenses. No sense even mentioning them for routine enlargements where an ordinary Rodagon is entirely competent. The preferred lens series in our local pro labs when large format film and mural applications were involved was actually the Apo Nikkor series. I have a full set of them; but those were not made in anything shorter than 180mm. But none of this means a hill of beans unless someone is using a precision carrier with glass on both sides of the negative to keep it genuinely flat, any every plane involved truly parallel.

 

[gone]

The 3 element lens was clearly soft and just OK to 8X10. The 4 elements lens did as well as the 6 element and APO up to 11X14, at 16X20 the 6 element and the one APO were noticeable shaper with the APO top of the list.

That's about how it looks on my prints as well. The main difference between them, other than cost, is that the more expensive 6 element lenses are usually faster than the 4 element. So that could be important if your enlarger is fussy about getting sharp focus from. The image is considerably brighter on my enlarger at f2.8 vs f4.

If the op wants a sharp 75mm lens, the Kodak Ektar 75 f4.5 is top notch in image quality. Cheap too.

 

[Pieter12]

That's about how it looks on my prints as well. The main difference between them, other than cost, is that the more expensive 6 element lenses are usually faster than the 4 element. So that could be important if your enlarger is fussy about getting sharp focus from. The image is considerably brighter on my enlarger at f2.8 vs f4.

If the op wants a sharp 75mm lens, the Kodak Ektar 75 f4.5 is top notch in image quality. Cheap too.

A grain focuser comes in handy. It’s pretty much a necessity.

 

[Paul Howell]

What did it seem that the students learned from this exercise?

The program I taught in at the time led to a AAS degree in photography transferable to ASU or other 4 year college. The lesson is that testing is the best way to determine what works and what is just advertising hype, myth, and brand prestige. As working photogpghers hype doesn't pay the bills, pay for you need and what works.

 

[jtk]

Years ago I evaluated 100/105mm enlarging lenses with the collimeter at Adolph Gasser's repair/engineering shop in San Francisco.

The best were Nikkor and Fuji, followed by Componon and trailed far behind by Componar (or Comparon?_...

I bought the Fuji 105 ... an excellent feature allowed focusing at full aperture, then to turn a free ring to the desired f-stop....similar feature to older zoom lenses, but this is an enlarging lens so didn't zoom.