Ektachrome E-1 Processing Kit Unopened Should I Open?

[mshchem]

UPDATE: Raising the temp helped. I manually set the ISO of Provia 100F at 40, Used auto bracketing of 1 stop with Nikon F5. Ran the whole process at 80 F up from original 75F. The film is still drying but there are some decent looking shots, much better than the first roll. It's still underdeveloped but I'm just pulling the film speed, colors look quite good. I think the next roll I'm going to set the speed at 32 and bracket 1/3 EV. That will give me ISO 25,32,and 40. I will pick the best speed and shoot a final roll at my "personal film speed" and probably call it good.
I'm shocked that I'm getting this good of a result from something that is so old. I think the chemicals are as good as they were when they were new. If I had enough chemistry and could keep raising the temperature and I think I could get to the film's rated speed. I've been lucky so far. The clock is ticking on the solutions I think I have about a week total from the time I mixed them. The CD will go first, I've been keeping the bottles full and using the Developers as a one shot. I don't want to mix the used developers with the virgin. The Jobo must be oxidizing the developers. I would hate to be doing this without the Jobo machine, it would get old standing there agitating a Nikor tank.
Best Regards, Mike

 

[mshchem]

Here's a 80 degree F, ISO 40 shot scanned with my antique Coolpix scanner Unaltered. I don't know much about scanning this scanner is dead nuts on with old Kodachrome , The slide looks a little better than this scan. I shot this with an 85mm @ f1.4 thus no depth of field . I wanted to isolate the color. I still am amazed that this stuff works at all.
Best Mike

 

[mshchem]

Here's the same shot with a little bit of work in Light room
Best Mike

 

[mshchem]

Excuse me

In my opinion, now that you’ve made the first development with the kit, you have a starting point to begin with. I would not shoot doing bracketing on the next shots (unless you want/need to), thanks to you now (& the kit) that you have an "rough" idea of how to deal with the film results.

I (we) can see that you are doing this for fun (or experiment), but now that you have let the blindness an uncertainty behind, you can go further getting both: fun & target.

Temperature: You’ll have to find out the “ideal” temp. for your kit/film (as you could see, mine was 77F, although I started with 68 …), but first thinking that the kit “was made” in “those days” for “those films”, besides the fact that the kit is in such state of conservation, what forces you to act other”wise”. So, increasing the way you’re doing, sounds “pretty” go to me. However, keep in mind that the first developer may have been the problem, not the temperature itself. I don’t believe it is a crime to use another fresh developer (doing that first job instead), just to experiment, just to try (worth it as a suggestion?).

About the risk of reticulation or wipe the emulsion out from the base, I think that nowadays is not so easy, modern films are not the same as the old ones (unfortunately, Oh those old days!!!) so, to get to such serious situation the temperature need to be extreme, as harmful for the film as for the chemicals (besides modifying the estimated working time as well)

Anyway, all this literature without knowing what was the process line you’ve made, and without some previous “questions” unanswered ... (T&T)

Happy hunting.

Any other suggestion? Used a Kodak film instead of Fuji

p.s. by the way, Nice to meet you Margot Lane

Dear LAG,
You were correct about the temp, raising it to 80F made a big difference. The slides are still underdeveloped, I may try raising the temp, or I may just stick to the slow speed and 80F?? The color is very vibrant but it looks like the older materials, very interesting effect. The emulsion was hard as you say it is nothing like the old soft emulsions.

Best Regards, Mike

 

[mshchem]

Corrected slightly in Light room

 

[stefan4u]

I would not try to get the rated speed from the (E6) film in conjunction with E1 process. That 80°F result looks really good, maybe go up to 85°F to archive 50 asa… The benefit of this kind of pull processing is (in my eyes) richer colors in the “middle” of the range. Really like your results!

All the best, stefan

 

[LAG]

Excuse me Mike

I'm shocked that I'm getting this good of a result from something that is so old. I think the chemicals are as good as they were when they were new. If I had enough chemistry and could keep raising the temperature and I think I could get to the film's rated speed. I've been lucky so far. The clock is ticking on the solutions I think I have about a week total from the time I mixed them. The CD will go first, I've been keeping the bottles full and using the Developers as a one shot. I don't want to mix the used developers with the virgin. ...

Perhaps the most amazing thing is the strength and the excellent resistance of that Colour Developer in time. I have dealt with very long storage chemicals with different results, and one thing is certain, the colour is the first to say good-bye, and secondly once open, there is not much (more) time.

Dear LAG,
You were correct about the temp, raising it to 80F made a big difference. The slides are still underdeveloped, I may try raising the temp, or I may just stick to the slow speed and 80F?? The color is very vibrant but it looks like the older materials, very interesting effect. The emulsion was hard as you say it is nothing like the old soft emulsions.

Best Regards, Mike

Hello Mike

Unlike the temperature or the time used, agitation is a personal choice. For that reason, when I wrote down my procedure (some post above) I didn’t mention it. In this sense, and after seein (& reading) those instructions scanned you shared with us (by the way, thanks) I immediately thought and remember that.

I don’t know what kind of agitation you've made, if the one recommended in those papers or the one who you are used to carry out day to day. In my opinion the latter agitation it’s the appropriate for the type of film you are working with (even better for that control, precisely if you are used to). And I would say even that, if you think your negatives are still a little underexposed, instead of increasing the temperature (i'm sorry Stefan4u) in my opinion I would increase agitation (remembering the gestures, for future references) for the chemical reducers at least.

I do like the first “and natural” result. Forget the digital perfections!

I hope i’m not bothering you with all my comments. One more suggestion, use colour film and do a cross-processing with it.

Regards

p.s. if you don’t mind I think I’m going to keep the instructions (as a remembrance) because I did not do it when I had the chance (years ago). I surely know it’s not the same paper than digital, but it will do for me.

 

[sepiareverb]

Loving what you're getting with this, and agreed I can't believe it works at all, let alone so beautifully.

Thanks for the scans of the instructions too!

 

[mshchem]

Here's the Handy Chart provided to post on your darkroom wall. Cloudy here today not good for bright color slides. Hopefully tomorrow I can get another couple rolls shot and processed. I think that poor old color developer is getting kinda tired and wants to go to E-1 Heaven after being held in Purgatory for so long Note July of 1956 on the Instructions. I'm just thinking this is it's 60th Birthday. It's going out with some bright colors and knowing that it's done a good job! Best Mike.

 

[LAG]

That's the chart I made my Notes from (like I said before). Happy "birth"?day Kit! Hail & farewell!

 

[mshchem]

The End of a Successful Experiment. Shot my final roll today ISO 32 in aperture priority auto with auto bracket 0.3 EV. Very good results. VERY slight magenta cast to whites. But all in all a fun time. I have properly disposed of the chemistry cleaned everything up. No CD stains on anything chemicals had another 8 or 10 rolls left in them if you lived in the 50's and were so inclined. These are all straight scans off my Coolpix no Photoshop etc. The sign is in the sun. Others are with Sun behind clouds on otherwise sunny day. This little Kit did a Great Job. I cant believe what people went through in the "Good Old Days" to make a color photo to have color separation negatives made etc. This is a good way to end. aurevoir beauté
Best Regards, Mike

 

[LAG]

I have properly disposed of the chemistry cleaned everything up.

It's a pitty we don't live next door ... One final suggestion, buy a Hunt Chrome6 kit and keep it for 60 years, you can make someone happy then!

It was a pleasure to address this matter with you. Regards!

 

[mshchem]

It's a pitty we don't live next door ... One final suggestion, buy a Hunt Chrome6 kit and keep it for 60 years, you can make someone happy then!

It was a pleasure to address this matter with you. Regards!

Yes! I think we would have a lot to talk about, and share our experiences
Best Regards, Mike

 

[LAG]

Yes! I think we would have a lot to talk about, and share our experiences

... and expired things to experiment with!

 

[mshchem]

I got another Kit. This is older, Datasheet has a 1946 revision date. Looks to be packaged the same as my original kit. This however shows processing everything at 68F. From what I have found they updated to 75F in 1949 so I suspect this kit is from the late 40's. There's no mention of this being process E-1 or shared chemistry with E-2. Just Ektachrome Processing Kit so this pre-dates E-2, E-3 etc. The cans are not corroded look good. I'm going to let this set until the New Ektachrome comes out and then have some fun! Maybe Kodak should make a all powder E-6 kit to go with their new Ektachrome. I bought this off Ebay, says on the box "Do not ship Parcel Post" He used Priority Mail . Best Mike

 

[adelorenzo]

Just read through this thread from the beginning, very cool!

 

[trendland]

The End of a Successful Experiment. Shot my final roll today ISO 32 in aperture priority auto with auto bracket 0.3 EV. Very good results. VERY slight magenta cast to whites. But all in all a fun time. I have properly disposed of the chemistry cleaned everything up. No CD stains on anything chemicals had another 8 or 10 rolls left in them if you lived in the 50's and were so inclined. These are all straight scans off my Coolpix no Photoshop etc. The sign is in the sun. Others are with Sun behind clouds on otherwise sunny day. This little Kit did a Great Job. I cant believe what people went through in the "Good Old Days" to make a color photo to have color separation negatives made etc. This is a good way to end. aurevoir beauté
Best Regards, Mike


View attachment 162171 View attachment 162172 View attachment 162174

Well friends I have to state these kind of colors are just N O T H I N G !!!!
Terrible looking the defined opposite of true colors.......... !

BUT JUST WAIT A SECOND !

THE color management isn't sooo bad if
you are not looking with a focus of total technical correctness.
So if you look to 1000 of modern retro apps - I have not seen this beautifull retro colors in any Digital Form.
So they are unique. AND thats very fine.
Because nothing I hate more is if Grandma Smith is able to follow my photographic intention with some simple
mouse clics from sitting at home....

with regards

 

[Photo Engineer]

The kit is probably useless for processing even if it is still good, as the E6 and E1 chemistry is rather far apart. It is probably worth more as a collectors item for the future.

PE

 

[mshchem]

The kit is probably useless for processing even if it is still good, as the E6 and E1 chemistry is rather far apart. It is probably worth more as a collectors item for the future.

PE

Yes, I agree. I have nice Fuji/Hunt chemicals. With the last batch of E-1 I was playing. I'm really hoping that slide film stays around it's so lovely. Negative film is so much more forgiving and makes great prints. Still I love a good slide show.