I came by a NOS E-1 Kit, Never been touched since I'm guessing 1955. May be the only one left sealed. No stains on box looks like it just came off a shelf. I'm wanting to look inside, but it's stapled shut. What Should I do?
Ektachrome E-1 Processing Kit Unopened Should I Open?
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- Thread starter mshchem
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A blast from the past! AFIK unless you somehow have some E 1 process film out there you have a curiosity, but not useful. I remember processing Ektachrome in the late '50s using probably the E 2 process. It accomplished the reversal by exposure to light, typically a photo-flood lamp. As always temperature was critical. The slides I processed seem to be in good condition.
As a product collectable, it probably has greater value unopened. OTH the box isn't all that compelling as an object.
However, you are only risking the money you already have into it by opening it, so if that's worth it to you, open it.
However, you are only risking the money you already have into it by opening it, so if that's worth it to you, open it.
I go back to E-3, I remember being careful not to drip water on a hot photoflood to prevent a shattering blast of glass . It's not worth anything. I'm just feeling like a bit of an archeologist. I really have a romantic thing about this stuff. Maybe I will just photograph the unwrapping. The predates Sputnik, of course so do I and nobody's standing in in to see me.
Mike
Excuse me
If i were you, i would open that box, take a look inside (if that happens, let’s share it with us, please) and of course use the chemicals (and with different type of films, perhaps the chemicals are not ruined or useless - not all -). I mean, even being a collection item, you have two options keep it or sell it. You can keep the containers, the box, the instructions for romance (but using the kit aswell at the same time) or you can sell it, and never know!
I would give it a try for sure.
If i were you, i would open that box, take a look inside (if that happens, let’s share it with us, please) and of course use the chemicals (and with different type of films, perhaps the chemicals are not ruined or useless - not all -). I mean, even being a collection item, you have two options keep it or sell it. You can keep the containers, the box, the instructions for romance (but using the kit aswell at the same time) or you can sell it, and never know!
I would give it a try for sure.
The FD is probably bad and the CD is most certainly bad.
The fixer might be bad.
PE
The fixer might be bad.
PE
Does one of these kits currently exist in the George Eastman museum?
Excuse me
Could be, in fact the First Developer (FD) i am almost sure it is useless ... but the real problem (and only) would be a bad CD (Color Developer), not the rest, not even the Bleach
I don't know if GEH has or wants one. You can contact them. I do have the formula for the E1 CD. It is also published in George Eatons book on photography.
PE
PE
I like this idea. Video and photos of the opening and each item inside. Maybe scans of instructions too.
This was the only thing that occurred to me is that maybe GEH might have an interest. I highly doubt it. Maybe I will send them a picture. It's definitely a time capsule.
It has some sort of date code
5612
CD5605
Are there liquids? Box is unstained and perfect bottom looks to have been sealed with hot melt glue top with staples
Best Mike
Is there a warranty stated on the box? (Or inside?)
Otherwise the legal situation of back then applies. What about legal warranty limitation back then?
He would be due an E1 kit, not a C41 kit.
IIRC, there are some liquids in there. One is Benzyl Alcohol
Good luck.
IIRC, there are some liquids in there. One is Benzyl Alcohol
Good luck.
Well I opened it. 5 cans with keys to open the can. Everything sealed into a single can for each solution. Color Developer is the only can that contains a liquid. It states on the outside of the can that it contains caustic soda in the bottle. I suspect that the packaging required sealed metal cans for postal regulations In 1956 UPS delivered packages for department stores in big cities. UPS didn't get authorization as a common carrier in the lower 48 states until 1975. I don't think I can bring myself to open the cans. I will scan the instructions and put up later here's a photo of the 5 cans. Only outward sign of any corrosion is the solder on the seam of the can of bleach and its minor. Ol' Kodak did a pretty good job of packaging for it to last 60 years! Not sure if the color coding was some sort of a classification symbol, have no idea the first developer and the bleach didn't have any paint on the top of the can. They were all packed upside down. They are back in the box, I even saved the staples.
Best regards Mike
Best regards Mike
Excuse me
Thanks for sharing (and bravo for opening). As I said before now you should try it. Seems to be well sealed, just like i said before as well, the Colour Developer is the "real problem", I understand could be crystallize, right?
My notes are: (careful, take them as a reference)
(77F)
Film: Wash
1. First Developer Bath 10 min
Wash 3 min
2. Hardening Bath 5 min
Film: Light Bath X secs
Wash 3 min
3. Colour Developer 15 min
Wash 3 min
(72/77F) ...
4. Clearing/Fixing Bath 5 min
Wash 3 min
5. Bleach Bath 8 min
Wash 3 min
Repeat: Clearing and Fixing Bath 5 min
Final Wash/Wet and Dry as usual
* Light Bath (re-expose to light) time depends on (a) your light source, (b) intensity and (c) distance. Should be White as well, looking for a "normal result"
Good luck
Me too!
Thanks for sharing (and bravo for opening). As I said before now you should try it. Seems to be well sealed, just like i said before as well, the Colour Developer is the "real problem", I understand could be crystallize, right?
My notes are: (careful, take them as a reference)
(77F)
Film: Wash
1. First Developer Bath 10 min
Wash 3 min
2. Hardening Bath 5 min
Film: Light Bath X secs
Wash 3 min
3. Colour Developer 15 min
Wash 3 min
(72/77F) ...
4. Clearing/Fixing Bath 5 min
Wash 3 min
5. Bleach Bath 8 min
Wash 3 min
Repeat: Clearing and Fixing Bath 5 min
Final Wash/Wet and Dry as usual
* Light Bath (re-expose to light) time depends on (a) your light source, (b) intensity and (c) distance. Should be White as well, looking for a "normal result"
Good luck
Me too!
Last edited:
There are bottles inside of those cans. One contains the benzyl alcohol. There was a packet of stabilzer in mine. It later came in a bottle.
PE
PE
Some cans are divided in the center. You opened one end and dissolved the contents and then opened the other end and dissolved the contents. Some contained cans, bottles, cardboard "boxes" and foil packets.
PE
PE
There are instructions on the cans, yes there are divided cans. I'm not going to leave them laying around. The instructions are the "new" 75F times. The original was at 68F. I have no intention of mixing this stuff and trying to use it. I'm sure that whoever sent it to me in the US mail violated several laws. I don't think it was in an aircraft thank goodness. I will think about it I will probably carefully open the bottoms with a regular can opener and try to save the can. I have a local lab that deals with waste. All together there isn't much more than a pound of material.
The cans sure are neat. I will photograph the process and put up a couple photos.
Mike
The cans sure are neat. I will photograph the process and put up a couple photos.
Mike
Excuse me Mike
That's the idea to keep the containers, good for you!
It's a pity you have no intention to use the Kit (only in my opinion) and other pity you are far from me (i would have been interested in that Bleach ... cause I consider there are no such risks on shipping)
Perfect decision!
That's the idea to keep the containers, good for you!
It's a pity you have no intention to use the Kit (only in my opinion) and other pity you are far from me (i would have been interested in that Bleach ... cause I consider there are no such risks on shipping)
Perfect decision!
I opened the cans of 1st Developer, two separate dry powders, not dark. The inner container has at least some hydrroquinone in it as the needle like crystals look just like my 1973 tub of Kodak Hydroquinone (the powder from the E-1 kit is absolutely white) The outer container has a slightly tan colored powder. No liquids!
Color Developer Outer can powder, inner carton powder, and small glass bottle with crystals of sodium hydroxide. No Liquids
This is an all powder kit no Liquids. No stabilizer, last bath is just photo flo More pictures to come. I think I'm going to try to develop a roll of Fujichrome. Nothing looks off at all (So Far)
Mike
Color Developer Outer can powder, inner carton powder, and small glass bottle with crystals of sodium hydroxide. No Liquids
This is an all powder kit no Liquids. No stabilizer, last bath is just photo flo More pictures to come. I think I'm going to try to develop a roll of Fujichrome. Nothing looks off at all (So Far)
Mike
Color Developer E-1 Outer powder with inner fibre carton
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