Efke 25 Anyone?

[Shawn Rahman]

I'm headed up to the Berkshires this upcoming weekend to shoot some country barns, and, while looking for an alternative to Ilford PanF 50, came across Efke 25 in one of the APUG-sponsored links.

I've never tried anything slower than PanF, usually preferring that or Acros 100 on something like this. But the very slow speed of Efke 25 sounds enticing.

I'm hoping there are users of Efke 25 here that would be willing to share their experiences.

Thanks!

 

[Ole]

The film is soft - physically soft in the developer. Contrast, however, tends to be high.

Red sensitivity is reduced compared to "normal" panchromatic films, don't stick a red filter on and expect good sharp shots hand-held. A R25, I think it is, needs 3 stops more on PanF, and 8 on EFKE 25!

Apart from that, it's a wonderful film which I really like

 

[Shawn Rahman]

Thanks for the quick reply, Ole. I am, in fact, planning on a red filter, but certainly not hand held. I'll try out a couple of rolls, if I can get it delivered in time. Thanks again!

 

[Mongo]

Just one quick note regarding Efke 25: If the barns are substantially red, they might turn out substantially black with this film. The red sensitivity is very limited. (It really depends on what you define as "red", but the film gets pretty blind over about 620nm in my experience.) If the barns lean more toward orange-red, you should be just fine, but if they're deep red they'll probably be darker than you'd normally anticipate.

Efke 25's a very nice film, and the grain size is astoundingly small. Because it's a traditional film, it has fairly standard recipricatory characteristics (figure 1/3 stop at 1 second, 2/3 stop at 10 seconds, and 1 1/2 stops at 100 seconds...at least that's what my notes say). I've had good luck developing it in both Rodinal and Pyrocat-HD.

Ole's note about the softness of the film should not be taken lightly. Depending on how you develop your film, you might want to search the archives here for some thoughts on how to avoid scratches during development. (I use a Unicolor drum for all of my LF development, so scratches normally aren't a problem. But even with the drum, I did manage to put a very large scratch no an 8x10 sheet of Efke film with my thumbnail - it's an experience you won't want to repeat.)

I hope you'll share your experiences with us when you get back. Although I favor Efke 100 for almost all of my work, I still have Efke 25 in the 'fridge and would love to hear of any successes you have.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[PhotoJim]

One other thing: Efke films are orthopanchromatic films, which means they are a little less red-sensitive than standard panchromatic films. This isn't inherently bad, but you'll notice that Efke films perform slightly different.

Incidentally, I processed Efke 100 in PMK for the first time last weekend and is it ever delicious. I bought Efke because I figured it would work very very well in PMK, and it does indeed.

 

[panchromatic]

The film is soft - physically soft in the developer. Contrast, however, tends to be high.

Red sensitivity is reduced compared to "normal" panchromatic films, don't stick a red filter on and expect good sharp shots hand-held. A R25, I think it is, needs 3 stops more on PanF, and 8 on EFKE 25!

Apart from that, it's a wonderful film which I really like

Just to clarify. Your saying that you need to increase exposure 8 whole stops when using a red 25. What about using a yellow?


thanks in advance!

 

[panchromatic]

Oops I forgot to include my 2 cents. I recently just got into LF and have shot efke 25 in 35mm quite a few times and a soft emultion hasn't given me any troubles. Now that I am using it in LF i'm sure i'll have to be more careful, but i am processing in a tank not a tray or drum.


Please post your results/experiences

thank you.

 

[Ole]

Just to clarify. Your saying that you need to increase exposure 8 whole stops when using a red 25. What about using a yellow?


thanks in advance!

The sensitivity drops off very abruptly in the red, but is very even across the rest of the spectrum. Depending on the filter, 1 stop should do. It also depends on the time of day; sunsets require a lot more exposure than with a panchromatic film!

I know there are tables and lists out there, and I have one listing filter values for different types of film from back when all slow films were like this. But that is 400km away from where I am now...

 

[Jordan]

Best thing with this film is just to be disciplined and shoot with a tripod. It's a great film though. I scan my negs, and to me the only B&W film that has the same smooth look as Efke 25 is (funnily enough) Ilford XP2 Super.

It works well in Diafine as well as Rodinal.

 

[VoidoidRamone]

Efke 25 in Rodinal 1:100 9min. is one of my favorite film/dev combos. I shoot it at EI 12 also.
-Grant

 

[Flotsam]

I've got 5 rolls of R25 waiting to try out. I tend to rate my Pan F at 25 (and underdevelop) anyway just to try and get some shadow detail. If R25 shoots at 25, it's wash.

 

[Ole]

It all depends on the developer. I rate R25 (and PL25 and KB25) at 25, and develop in Beutler's or Neofin Blau. If I need even more contrast (that's rare!) I rate it at 12 and develop in Pyrocat-HD.

 

[Flotsam]

It seems like when I shoot slow films, I'm always trying to get more shadows and kill contrast. Oh, for a slow film that handles like beloved Tri X :rolleyes:

...And while we're at it, a zero calorie stout that tastes exactly like Guiness.

 

[P C Headland]

Neal,

Try Efke 25 (@25) in something like Rodinal at 1+100 - the contrast is very manageable, with plenty of shadow detail left. You could also try stand development and even more dilute Rodinal.

Paul

 

[panchromatic]

...And while we're at it, a zero calorie stout that tastes exactly like Guiness.

You and a million others I'm sure!

 

[titrisol]

I second this one.
Efke 25 is an excellent film with a weird red sensitivity that makes it surreal sometimes.
I have only used the 35mm version, and was blown away when I looked at it in the enlarger.

I shoot it at box speed and develop for 10 min in Rodinal 1+100 agitating once every minute

Efke 25 in Rodinal 1:100 9min. is one of my favorite film/dev combos. I shoot it at EI 12 also.
-Grant

 

[Shawn Rahman]

I second this one.
Efke 25 is an excellent film with a weird red sensitivity that makes it surreal sometimes.

That sounds interesting - does anyone have a scan using Efke 25 that shows the red sensitivity everyone is cautioning about? I've ordered three rolls of it - two in 120 and one in 35, and will let you know the results, hopefully sometime next week. Of course, I'll take the PanF and Acros with me for my primary work this weekend.

Finally - I am relatively new to self-processing, and have only used stock D76 up until now. Any ideas about how Efke does with D76 (no dilution)?

Again, thanks to everyone who has replied.

 

[Scott Edwards]

Efke 25 in Rodinal 1:100 9min. is one of my favorite film/dev combos. I shoot it at EI 12 also.
-Grant

Yup, Me too. EI 12 and 9 minutes in Rodinal. Stunning results.

 

[titrisol]

Digitaltruth.com says 5 minutes in undiluted D76 or 10 minutes in 1+3
I'd tend to use the mosre diluted as one shot developer, 10 minutes is easier to control than 5.

Efke 25 D-76 1+1 20 5 5 20C
Efke 25 D-76 1+3 25 9-10 20C
Efke 25 D-76 1+1 50(25) 8-9 20C [2]

 

[jim appleyard]

That sounds interesting - does anyone have a scan using Efke 25 that shows the red sensitivity everyone is cautioning about? I've ordered three rolls of it - two in 120 and one in 35, and will let you know the results, hopefully sometime next week. Of course, I'll take the PanF and Acros with me for my primary work this weekend.

Finally - I am relatively new to self-processing, and have only used stock D76 up until now. Any ideas about how Efke does with D76 (no dilution)?

Again, thanks to everyone who has replied.

Please allow yourself more than three rolls. It takes awhile to learn what a film and film/dev combo can and cannot do.

You may want to soup in D-76 1+3. Usually, using a dev like D-76 1+0 is to reduce grain. Efke 25 has such fine grain that you don't need to hide it; thus all the Rodinal fans. By diluting a dev, you cut down on the amount of sodium sulfite that effects how grainy (to a point) a negative is.

If you don't have books like: Anchell's "Darkroom Cookbook"; Ansel Adams "The Negative", they are good reading and can be helpful.

 

[galyons]

One other thing: Efke films are orthopanchromatic films, which means they are a little less red-sensitive than standard panchromatic films. This isn't inherently bad, but you'll notice that Efke films perform slightly different.

Only Efke 25 and 50 are orthopanchromatic. Efke 100 & Efke 400 are panchromatic, normal red sensitivity. Efke 400 is repackaged Ilford.

Cheers,
Geary

 

[braxus]

"Efke 400 is repackaged Ilford."

Actually that was the case year ago, but from what has been said Efke 400 today is Agfapan 400.

 

[epatsellis]

My preference is D76 1:1 @ 8min, agitate 10 sec per min.


erie

 

[Black Dog]

Anyone any idea on times in PCAT HD?

 

[noseoil]

Efke 25 @ 12 and 7:30 in PMK at 70f. tim