Edixa Standard -- Mechanical West German SLR
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Update to this thread. Turns out after some research into Edixa and Enna optics, it is clear to me that an Enna lens, rather than CZJ Flectagon lens is more appropriate for this camera. This is because Enna lenses were supplied and sometimes branded for Edixa cameras. Plus the Flectagon is very well known, and I'm more interested in fining out about new stuff. Indeed, until this project, I know nothing of Enna West German optics.
Turns out Enna was a pioneer in retrograde optics for 35mm SLRs. Since I love wide angle lenses and SLRs, this is a great match.
I had used a picture from the internet in post #26 above of an Enna Lithagon 24mm lens. By coincidence, that lens was actually listed on a site for sale, which I have purchased.
So, now I'm looking forward to the arrival of the lens. This 24mm focal length is rare in my collection of useable cameras. It will make my Edixa unique and more likely to get use.
Here is some information from the internet on Enna lenses. They designed the 35mm and 28mm lenses first. The 24mm that I'm getting came a little later.
Turns out Enna was a pioneer in retrograde optics for 35mm SLRs. Since I love wide angle lenses and SLRs, this is a great match.
I had used a picture from the internet in post #26 above of an Enna Lithagon 24mm lens. By coincidence, that lens was actually listed on a site for sale, which I have purchased.
So, now I'm looking forward to the arrival of the lens. This 24mm focal length is rare in my collection of useable cameras. It will make my Edixa unique and more likely to get use.
Here is some information from the internet on Enna lenses. They designed the 35mm and 28mm lenses first. The 24mm that I'm getting came a little later.
Again, the lens pictured in #26 is the actual lens I'll be receiving, but here are some other Enna 24mm Lithagon lenses with slightly different zebra stripes. I believe the lens came in Exacta and Robot mounts (in addition to the M42 mount for my Edixa). I believe it also was offered in a universal mount ( Sockel-lenses),.
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Good news on the shutter. After setting the opening and closing curtain tensions (which was a real pain, 3 hands are needed to hold the screw tight while the locking wire is re-inserted, otherwise they unwind) all the speeds are very good. No further adjustment.
1/500 = 1/500 !
1/250 = 1/197
1/100 = 1/103
1/50 = 1/50 !
1/25 = 1/28
1/10 = 1/9
1/5 = 1/6
1/2 = 1/2.5
1/500 = 1/500 !
1/250 = 1/197
1/100 = 1/103
1/50 = 1/50 !
1/25 = 1/28
1/10 = 1/9
1/5 = 1/6
1/2 = 1/2.5
Yes, manual aperture. Maybe best for this camera, as I won't have to worry about the aperture pin on the lens aligning with the plunger.
Haha, for a while people sure liked that zebra look!
Be sure to post some pictures when you've shot a roll, I'm curious now. I have a roll of Kodak Gold in my Edixa with the Helios-44 on but I just can't seem to get through it currently.
Be sure to post some pictures when you've shot a roll, I'm curious now. I have a roll of Kodak Gold in my Edixa with the Helios-44 on but I just can't seem to get through it currently.
New screen installed. Works great with the 24mm lens. Still amazed that I found this, has to be a pretty rare item.
I'll probably try to repair the original screen. Need to melt the glue and re-glue it. The split prism on that is actually glass.
I'll probably try to repair the original screen. Need to melt the glue and re-glue it. The split prism on that is actually glass.
Just saw the negatives from this lens and Wow! I was not expecting that. At the center it is extremely sharp, just as good as any modern lens. The corners are not as sharp, but still perfectly acceptable. I was wondering if this would be one of those blurry-ethereal lenses, but not the case. Contrast is good, as the lens elements are coated and my example is free from fog or fungus. The camera is light-tight also. Great light trap design with velvet which is still intact.
The only other roll of film through this camera was 1979 in Germany, just after I got the camera. With the shutter curtains sticking, and the ground glass in the wrong position, the whole roll was a waste. The camera was put away and forgotten.
The only other roll of film through this camera was 1979 in Germany, just after I got the camera. With the shutter curtains sticking, and the ground glass in the wrong position, the whole roll was a waste. The camera was put away and forgotten.
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Thank you vm for all this trouble with informing about your work with the Edixa. I've a couple of Edixas somewhere that need attention, now I feel I have to give them a try. Thanks again!
Notes and conclusions:
1) There is not much "adjustment" to the shutter. Mostly one needs to make sure everything moves freely to get the speeds correct.
2) A common problem with these cameras is a closing curtain that moves too slow at the start and then too fast at the end. This makes one side darker than the other (right side in print).
3) There are more spinning and moving parts connected to the second curtain, so it is more likely to get held up. Even the synch contacts are moving as the second curtain rolls up.
4) Increasing tension on the second curtain spring only speeds up the end of the travel where it will overtake the first curtain giving less exposure to the dark side.
5) Decreasing tension on the second curtain (to keep it from catching the first curtain) makes it stick even more before it starts moving, giving more exposure to the light side.
6) Increasing tension on the first curtain, only slows the shutter speed (making the light side lighter) because the first curtain now moves more before the second starts to move. Increasing the initial gap.
The solution is to try and locate every spinning part attached to the second curtain. I used alcohol then fine oil at every spot I could fine.
1) There is not much "adjustment" to the shutter. Mostly one needs to make sure everything moves freely to get the speeds correct.
2) A common problem with these cameras is a closing curtain that moves too slow at the start and then too fast at the end. This makes one side darker than the other (right side in print).
3) There are more spinning and moving parts connected to the second curtain, so it is more likely to get held up. Even the synch contacts are moving as the second curtain rolls up.
4) Increasing tension on the second curtain spring only speeds up the end of the travel where it will overtake the first curtain giving less exposure to the dark side.
5) Decreasing tension on the second curtain (to keep it from catching the first curtain) makes it stick even more before it starts moving, giving more exposure to the light side.
6) Increasing tension on the first curtain, only slows the shutter speed (making the light side lighter) because the first curtain now moves more before the second starts to move. Increasing the initial gap.
The solution is to try and locate every spinning part attached to the second curtain. I used alcohol then fine oil at every spot I could fine.
This should apply on both, the opening and the closing curtain. Actuall you even hint at this in your following remarks.
The way the designed it, the opening curtain drums spin pretty freely. However, the main tensioning shaft, that goes all the way through the camera to the bottom escapement and that triggers the flash, all needs to be spun up and turned by the closing curtain spring. This is in addition to spinning the closing curtain drums.
In my camera this is where the problem was. Also need to make sure the escapement is not touching it at the faster speeds.
Took me a while to catch this, because from the top of the camera this shaft appears to spin with the first curtain, however, the top gear is uncoupled from the rest of the shaft, so watching from the top of the camera only the top gear and shutter speed knob are spinning with the first curtain.
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Great info. Sadly, when trying to tension the second curtain, I turned the screw the wrong way, loosening the curtain ribbon to the point it got caught up in the rollers and ripped. I ended up selling the camera and Westanar lens. I think most of the value to the buyer was to get the waist level finder. I later bought a Miranda DR, which I find very similar ergonomically.
The Edixa Reflex is a basic M42 camera that does the job. Here are some gazanias that escaped and naturalized on a nearby slope.
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