Yet, if the lens you have is not an Apo lens, you will have to make do. I find it's more realistic to worry about the genuine practical requirements for getting something done rather than dwelling on whatever would be idea. Chances are, the corners of the negative are somewhat lackluster for most people making enlargement, anyway.
It's practical to maintain a distinction between the needs of the commercial printer and that of the enthusiast.
APO does not necessarily guarantee edge-to edge sharpness, at least not for black and white work.
I’d recommend a laser alignment tool before a fancy grain focuser If you already have a good grain focuser. You really don’t need to see in the corners if your enlarger is aligned. I have a Micromega and rarely ever do.
This is probably a daft question, but I take it you are using the focus finder with the enlarger lens at full aperture and with no filtration.
I don't know but if anyone can give instructions as to what you do with the Paterson to get beyond a fairly restricted view of the centre of the negative projection then let him speak, No-one has spoken in my nearly 20 years here
pentaxuser
Don't buy into the "you have to have an APO lens" stuff. It doesn't really matter much. Maybe if you are doing large color prints, but for black and white just use a good lens. Or even a not so good lens if that is what you like. I have one of the best enlarging lenses ever made (better than the common APOs) but rarely ever use it. It doesn't jive with my Focomat since it is a 60mm so I have to use it on my big Saunders which I never use for 35mm. The 50s I use on the Focomat work fine. I even use a - gasp! - Elmar from time to time on the Focomat. With portraits, that lens is really sweet. If your goal is to make sharp prints then any 6 element lens will do for you.
The little bit of time and expense of a decent (does not have to be a Peak/Micromega) grain focuser makes a huge difference in the final print. It is not complicated nor elitist. Do you skip making a well-exposed print, too? A soft, grainless (because of lack of focus) print just looks slapdash and amateurish. If you care enough about your images to properly compose the image, focus the camera and process the film, why not go the small extra step to get the focus right under the enlarger?I’m a pragmatist. Unless you intend your photos to be viewed through a scope, focussing by eye at close range is plenty good enough. Methinks @DREW WILEY makes everything over-complicated and rather elitist.
They are exactly same build.Does Omega have the same magnification as Peak? I’m asking because I’m in the market for one, but I hadn’t considered the magnification factor.
This works for most of my needs.
The Mitchell focus scope.
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Corner to corner focusing but not highly magnified.
I'm going to differ a bit with @snusmumriken about focusing by eye at close range - but then I use a fair bit of T-Max 400 and, in particular, T-Max 100 in medium format, and at least some of that is/was exposed in a pinhole camera!
When the film grain is very fine, I need some magnification to help me confirm whether the focus on the enlarger is at optimum - particularly when the image includes a lot of blur or other low acutance information.
I do go that small extra step, and you can (if you want to) see the grain in my prints, centre and edge. All I’m saying is that you don’t have to own a mass spectrometer to make such a print. The idea of a nice Peak focusser appeals even to me, but in my humble level of the craft it isn’t actually essential. I’m not making murals. Hell, maybe I just have really good eyesight…The little bit of time and expense of a decent (does not have to be a Peak/Micromega) grain focuser makes a huge difference in the final print. It is not complicated nor elitist. Do you skip making a well-exposed print, too? A soft, grainless (because of lack of focus) print just looks slapdash and amateurish. If you care enough about your images to properly compose the image, focus the camera and process the film, why not go the small extra step to get the focus right under the enlarger?
Agreed. Too many prints, especially many digital prints, fall apart when viewed closely. Limiting the viewing distance of the image can (but not always) limit the power of the image....
And for the record - yes, people do come right up to my prints, even big 30X40 inch ones, because the detail is there. I not only like the composition to work overall from a greater viewing distance, but to continue to reward the viewer time and again by discovering new details and nuances. Sharpness itself is strategized, just like depth of field, when taking the shot, pertaining to where I want the eye led within the composition.
Agreed. Too many prints, especially many digital prints, fall apart when viewed closely. Limiting the viewing distance of the image can (but not always) limit the power of the image.
Could you rephrase that question? One does not need a magnifier to see sufficient detail in an image, so I am not quite sure what you are asking....
I understand the wish to allow viewing at various distances, especially for landscapes. But can you explain how it is possible to see something in a print with the naked eye that is imperceptible without a magnifier in the (same sized) projected image?
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