E-6 without reversal?

[Kloppervok]

CD3 in addition, forms narrow band dyes with the right absorption

Thank you for the clarification.

For the b/w first developer, are there certain characteristics that this needs to match? Can i use my current developer (F76+) or something common like D72 or tmax developer more suitable?

What part of the image does this step control; contrast, grain size, film speed, or all of it?

you should use a sulfite clearing bath before the bleach

This might be the solution to the problem that I had with paper positives; i'll make a thread elsewhere i guess.

 

[Photo Engineer]

The E6 first developer is a very slow acting HA developer that gives fine grain and high sharpness. The speed is obtained by adjusting the emulsion.

PE

 

[Kloppervok]

Is there an high accutance developer that you recommend that I can make from scratch, to avoid having to pay $27 for a starter and replenisher that could replace kodak's?

 

[thisismyname09]

Dead Link Removed is an MSDS for the E-6 first developer, if you want to try to mimic that. Alternatively, there's some home brew E-6 formulas here.

 

[srs5694]

Is there an high accutance developer that you recommend that I can make from scratch, to avoid having to pay $27 for a starter and replenisher that could replace kodak's?

Where are you located? If you're in the US, you might just try Kodak's single-use E-6 kit. It's available mail-order Dead Link Removed among other places. It doesn't use separate starter or replenisher chemicals; it's just got instructions for single-shot use. The last time I did the math, it was actually significantly less expensive than the smaller 3-bath kits from other manufacturers, but it produces better results. It's a 6-bath kit, so it takes more effort to use, though.

If you're outside the US, the same kit may be available, but I can't provide pointers to any suppliers.