Thanks, Lachlan. I don't understand "machine out the chassis." Where must this be done and why?It's perfectly possible (& quite a few have done it), but you'll need to machine out the chassis, make a new neg carrier, possibly new bellows, and get a suitable head that covers 8x10. Really a question of trade-offs between skill, time, money & costs of getting a native 8x10 enlarger.
Single color LED panels can be inexpensive. In that case you can use 12x12" filters and would need to make a separate filter holder slot between the LED panel and the negative stage. Or make an under the lens holder for 6x6" filters.ic-racer, that is the Heiland unit which sells for close to 3K. It looks great but it is out of my league!
Thanks, Lachlan. I don't understand "machine out the chassis." Where must this be done and why?
I was told he stopped doing the conversions but there as a similar conversion talked about briefly here, https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...-durst-l184-and-beseler-cb7-parts.30441/print unfortunately it look like the website was updated and when i contacted Jeromie he didn't save any archive of the conversion, he called it the DurstZilla tho. i hope to one day to finish this project, i just haven't came of with a solid plan.How would I get in touch with Mr. Mutmansky?
It can be done if you want to keep the height about the same as it is without modification - I think it grew from the realisation that the normal neg carrier is about 8x10 in size (excluding the 'ears') & still has plenty of bearing space on the chassis at the neg stage. The focus drive system is also plenty long to handle a 300mm lens. Essentially what you do is machine out an 8x10 hole in the neg stage (I think that you'll need to sacrifice the masking bars too) - which will still leave plenty of structural strength in the chassis (big casting essentially). Major consequence however is that you need bigger bellows immediately at the neg stage, so those need fabricated, as does a neg carrier & a suitable source of illumination. It's definitely not reversible, unlike some of the other approaches which are closer to the Alan Ross/ Beseler 8x10 conversion in setup & add significant height to an already big machine.
No need for a mixing box if you use a big enough cold light. My 8x10 conversion for the L138 uses a 12X12 high-output Aristo blue-green V54. The high-output version is basically overkill; but I sometimes register unsharp masks onto the original neg, equating to more overall density. Therefore this was a deluxe option for me, and I love the thing. But I really don't know what's still made in terms of cold lights. Cheap LED lighting panels are far too weak for serious enlarging use.
|Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. |
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.
PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY: