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Drywall Finishing in the Darkroom...

ic-racer

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I recently taught myself a technique for drywall finishing which I believe to be well suited to darkroom remodeling and construction. The technique consists of smoothing drywall plaster using water and a sponge. The technique takes some skill to master (but so does developing and printing film) so it is well suited to artist types

I learned about the technique just in passing on some websites. Frequently being instructed to avoid the sponge technique, in favor of sanding.

I have some pictures to post, but in general I was able to achieve an equivalent result with the sponge (and very careful application of the plaster) compared to prior work I had done with sanding mesh. One ingredient to good results was spending probably twice as much time getting the plaster smooth and flat with the paddle during the initial application and doing more than one coat of plaster.

There is absolutely NO dust with this technique. Especially if you use pre-mixed plaster.
 
I'm looking forward to seeing the photos. A few years ago I paid a man to drywall my outside darkroom. I guess the roof wasn't covered properly and with the first rain the ceiling collapsed. Now I have a moldy shed instead of a darkroom. I was thinking about ripping it out and drywalling myself but don't know where to start. This will be a good thread to follow.
 
Good idea. But if I were building a darkroom I wouldn't do any of that. Just tape it and paint it as it is.
 
Sponge sanding is a fairly common technique in confined areas. Otherwise, I can actually sell you large-surface sanding and vac equipment that
does drywall almost dustless. It will even do smoothwall. Problem is, I've never seen a darkroom big enough to warrant it! ... But tape needs to
be properly mudded in, or it's just a matter of time till it will pop.
 
Doing drywall is tough stuff. Setting up a wall for satin paint is just about as tough as setting up a car body for show quality paint. Wet sponge sanding is nothing new, but there's a lot that comes after that. But when the job is done right, it can be gorgeous.
 
Cool a home improvement thread on APUG!
I dry walled my kitchen a number of years ago. Being an artisan I investigated proper technique, and was amazed to watch professional drywallers. First, after they tape and mud it is almost already perfectly smooth (as opposed to my big splotchy mess), then they use a combo sander/vacuum which really keeps down the dust. For new construction they don't care as much about the dust getting everywhere, but anyone doing remodels will likely use the vacuum. I never saw the pros use wet sanding, but I know it works because I used it when I drywalled the back of a bookcase in the middle of my living space not too long ago.
 
I just bought my first home last year and it was a renovation project. I've spent much time doing drywall, learning as I go. A few things I'd highly recommend; use paper tape, NOT the mesh tape. And use a setting-type compound as opposed to the ready mixed joint compound. Setting-type compounds come as powder form and mix up with water. Paper tape and setting type compound is the best way to go. Don't ask me how I know this...
 

If I understand what you said correctly, start with fixing the roof.
 
When I finished off my small darkroom a year ago, I avoided drywall for a few reasons. Instead, I used 1/2" OSB. Benefits (in my mind):

No dust
Ability to remove and replace panels for access to plumbing and electrical
Better holding power for screws and fasteners when not in stud
Less opportunity for mold
No time spent taping (which is an acquired skill that I have yet to fully acquire)

The only disadvantage was more effort to cut.

I fastened to the studs with screws and caulked the seams before painting. Over the sink, I used multiple panels (where I could have used one) just for easier access to plumbing and exhaust.

It does give a more "industrial" look, rather than the finished look of drywall, but I like that. I doing again, I would do the same.
 
I rather well like the kind of 1/4 plywood that is routered to look like the old-time thin-slat stuff on the back porch of a house from the early 20th century--if you can picture what I mean. And all you have to do is nail it up, buzz over it with the sander a little, prime and paint. Drywall is an art, and it can be tough. The mud over the tape joints contracts and you can see the joints, especially with satin paint.
 

I think you may be referring to beadboard. It's a nice look; I used it in a bathroom.
 
If you don't mind ugly & expensive, but almost indestructible and highly washable, you can use flat fiberglass panel. You darkroom will look like
a toilet stall in a gas station, but cleaning it will be easy. I opted for the misery of full drywall smoothwall and true enamel paint.
 
I presume what you are calling drywall is what we call plasterboard. When I made my darkroom I watched a few vids on youtube about plastering/skimming and decided to have a go. Initially getting the plaster on the hawk and then onto the wall was not easy, but then I got the hang of it - plaster like melted ice-cream, so it stays on the hawk. Get it on the wall with the float and run it out fairly flat. Let it dry a bit and then push that float around with some water to smooth off. I wont make a living as a plasterer but it was not as difficult as I thought it was going to be, and after a coat of paint I was well pleased with the result! Tips - decent plastering float. Fresh plaster.
 

+1

I 'practised' on the walls as I constructed my DR. I also won't give up the dayjob, but I was happy enough to use this experience and have a bash at plastering the box-room afterwards.

Currently remodelling (extending) the DR and found that I maybe did too good a job of the plastering - I can't get the damned stuff off the walls now!!

The only other advice I'd give that initially, you should concentrate on quickly getting a roughly even coat of plaster on the walls, and then go back to tidy it up, by using large strokes and not allowing the full face of the trowel to contact the wall. Then, when you're polishing the skim (before it's totally set and still not letting the whole trowel face touch the wall) - push HAAAAAAAARD - pressure on the trowel is your friend!
 
On a related note, if you're trying to get wallpaper off of the wall (maybe you're remodeling an existing room that has wallpaper on the walls), here's an easy way to get the wallpaper off.

  1. If it's vinyl wallpaper, get the vinyl part of the wallpaper off first. It's essential that you do this, otherwise the remaining steps don't work because you need the stuff to soak into the wallpaper and the vinyl will block it.
  2. Go to your local store's laundry section and get yourself a bottle of Downy brand liquid fabric softener. Others will work, but I'm told that Downy works best.
  3. Dilute the fabric softener 1+1 with tap water. Use a wash cloth to apply liberally to the paper/glue that's still on the wall. Do a small section at a time, because you want to do the next step while it's still wet.
  4. Scrape the paper off of the wall with a PLASTIC putty knife. The plastic putty knife works well and doesn't damage the surface under the wallpaper.
  5. Rinse the wall well before painting to rinse off the fabric softener.

My personal experience indicates that this works far better than the horrible smelling chemicals (I've used these too) most places will try to sell you to remove wallpaper. Some ladies who work at Lowe's told me this trick and I decided to try it. It really does work!
 

Porter Cable or Fein?
 
I've used Blueboard, common in the eastern United States, and Diamond® Veneer Finish from USG. after it sets it's rock hard. It's hand troweled over Blueboard that has been joint taped.
 
I have used both methods to smooth out drywall mud. One thing I would point out is the majority (if not all) of pro's use the sanding method. It's fast and as far as I know it's the gold standard. If you block off your doors and cover or remove all equipment from your darkroom prior to sanding I don't why the aversion to sanding. I'm able to get smoother joints with the sanding method.
 
Curt - neither. Festool - it literally leaves the others in the dust. Porter-Cable is basically out of business (the brand was purchased and the actual US company largely shut down a few years ago), but the sanding pads are available from Norton. I'm also a Fein dealer. But you're comparing thirty year old technologies against a very new one, and things have improved dramatically in sanding and dust control. Don't want
to toot my horn or solicit business (I've got way more than I can handle at the moment), but I am the largest Festool dealer in the Western US.
A lot of that equipment will come in real handy once I retire and maybe start up a showroom again. But just like everyone else, it's expensive
gear and I have to choose my personal purchases wisely. ... and drywall is NOT something I'm interested in doing!
 
In my attempts to tape drywall, I've found that I often have to use more mud, and therefore take more off, than a skilled professional. So sanding becomes more labor intensive and creates more dust. I have 2 rooms that need sheetrock and taping; I'm curious how the Festal tool/vacuum would make this easier. I couldn't justify buying one but perhaps there's one to rent.
 
I sheet rocked my darkroom when I built it 30 years ago when I was a young man. I can't imagine me doing it in my 50's now. But I did sheet rock my studio 20 years ago and it was rough work. In California, there are contractors that do sheetrock and there are the tapers and finishers. The good tapers I've heard won't even sand. It's work they'll avoid.
 
ic-racer said:
I learned about the technique just in passing on some websites. Frequently being instructed to avoid the sponge technique, in favor of sanding.
Click to expand...

Never sand! If you are putting a thin covering all over the surface, you can get a smooth finish with a metal float. If you are just joint filling, the sponge works well.


Steve.
 
My photographs of the process don't show much. The texture of the plaster (or lack thereof) does not really show up. Anyway, here is a "BEFORE" picture. Realize that this is NOT my darkroom it is the room adjacent to my darkroom.

 
Here is an area on which I was practicing. This is dry plaster. Realize this is a test to see if it would be at all possible to smooth that bad of an area with the sponge...
 
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