Does doubling 120 film on a reel mean more developer, too?

[NB23]

Absolutely not.

8x10 square inch film requires 250ml developer.

One 120 roll requires 500ml to fully immerse, but it uses only 250ml capacity, therefore using half the capacity.

Therefore, you can either re-use the developer for another 120 roll, or develop TWO 120 rolls mounted back to back.

Remember this, turn it how you will, it all comes down to the same:

36 exp = 120 roll= 8x10 = FOUR 4x5 sheets = 250ml developer.

1L develops:
-FOUR 36 exp rolls.
-FOUR 120 rolls.
-TWO 220 rolls.
-SIXTEEN 4x5 sheets.
-FOUR 8x10 sheets.

If you use a single 500ml stainless tank, there will be only one 120 roll fitting inside. You have two choices:

- Develop one roll, then reusing the 500ml developer to develop second roll (try to do this within a day in order to not let it oxydize)

- Develop TWO 120 films back to back.


Again, one D76 bag has the capacity to develop 15 rolls of 36 exp/120 film. This obviously means that you will have to reuse the developer at least once for 120 film. Or simply pour back the used developer into the Gallon bottle until you reach 15 rolls.

The most efficient way though, for D76, would be to use it straight one-shot for 35mm film and 1:1 one-shot for 120.

Diluting 1:1 for 120 film would indeed mean that you are using 250ml of active developer per 120 film roll in a 500ml tank.

 

[NB23]

At last, 24 exp rolls, count for 66% of a 8x10 capacity.

This means that if you develop FOUR 24exp rolls in a 1 Liter tank, you can reuse 1000ml from that session to develop Extra TWO 24exp rolls, keeping the same developing times. But it is important to develop those TWO films into the whole 1000ML.

Because SIX 24exp rolls equal FOUR 36exp rolls.

 

[jnamia]

Absolutely not.

8x10 square inch film requires 250ml developer.

One 120 roll requires 500ml to fully immerse, but it uses only 250ml capacity, therefore using half the capacity.

Therefore, you can either re-use the developer for another 120 roll, or develop TWO 120 rolls mounted back to back in the 500ml and discard.

Remember this, turn it how you will, it all comes down to the same:

36 exp = 120 roll= 8x10 = FOUR 4x5 sheets = 250ml developer.

1L develops:
-FOUR 36 exp rolls.
-SIX 24exp rolls
-FOUR 120 rolls.
-TWO 220 rolls.
-SIXTEEN 4x5 sheets.
-FOUR 8x10 sheets.

exactly

I hope the OP posts the results and he did a control roll.

 

[bags27]

exactly

I hope the OP posts the results and he did a control roll.

I'm waiting for the chemicals to make Barry Thornton 2-bath, but any of us can do it with whatever we have. Again, common sense (and other posters above) say it won't make much, if any difference, with a compensating developer or stand with pretty much any developer.

 

[jnamia]

I'm waiting for the chemicals to make Barry Thornton 2-bath, but any of us can do it with whatever we have. Again, common sense (and other posters above) say it won't make much, if any difference, with a compensating developer or stand with pretty much any developer.

sure, common sense, but common sense is not very common !
you seem to not realize this is the internet, people sometimes say things
they "have heard" and have no personal experience with, as things they post about..
I don't post things I have never experienced. ..

good luck with your developing
John

 

[Donald Qualls]

@NB23 I double up 120 routinely on Paterson type reels, but I don't recommend doing so on stainless. Rather than loading one roll, then the second, and using some method (tape, or a clip on some brands of reel) to keep them from overlapping, to load two on a stainless 120 reel requires loading them simultaneously, base sides together, which goes against the curl of one roll as well as inviting jumping the wires and having emulsion sides touch (resulting in underdeveloped or undeveloped areas). I know it's been done by some workers, but unless you're a wizard with stainless reels, I surely wouldn't try it.

 

[NB23]

@NB23 I double up 120 routinely on Paterson type reels, but I don't recommend doing so on stainless. Rather than loading one roll, then the second, and using some method (tape, or a clip on some brands of reel) to keep them from overlapping, to load two on a stainless 120 reel requires loading them simultaneously, base sides together, which goes against the curl of one roll as well as inviting jumping the wires and having emulsion sides touch (resulting in underdeveloped or undeveloped areas). I know it's been done by some workers, but unless you're a wizard with stainless reels, I surely wouldn't try it.

Although I never double load my reels, I’m not sure one needs to be a wizard with stainless reels, especially the 120 reels are so easy to use, loading them is always a pleasure.

Kinking the film is easy though... but that’s true with any reel.

 

[Donald Qualls]

the 120 reels are so easy to use, loading them is always a pleasure.

Let's just say that's a personal preference. I've never had good results with 120 on stainless, never mind trying to double load. 35mm isn't difficult, but 120 just doesn't go for me. Hence I quit using stainless completely, got three sizes of Super System 4 and seven or so spirals.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have loaded two rolls on the Jobo reels using the red tab to keep them apart, but I had trouble one time and messed up film so be careful.