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Does D-76 take longer to fix?

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@RalphLambrecht I do not mean to be rude, but do you not notice that your responses are not visible? They are rolled into a quote you respond to. I always see your comments that only contain "Regards" plus your signature.

You delete the closing
tag when you respond. I figured it would be rude not to tell you this :smile:[/QUOTE]

No, I didn't see that but, thanks for telling me; wondering why that is.
 
Fixing for 15 min with a acid rapid fixer could Bleach some silver...

I usually give a 5 min 25 ºc plain water bath to remove that pink cast

true, a plain watr bath will remove whatever is left of the anti-halation layer.
 
Overfixing is bad. All my film/developer combos are thoroughly fixed in 5 minutes using a variety of fixers. Maybe there is something in your tap water that is inhibiting the fixer?
How bad can that be? I always get my films fixed for 10 minutes. Would that be too long, does it degrade the final result?
 
Anchell says that no bleaching is possible with alkaline fixers...
 
Some will probably do the Colbert finger wag at me, when I rinse T-Max film I will use water that's around 80 degrees. Not too high though because reticulation can happen!

This is a popular (common) misconception. High temperature will not cause reticulation on it's own! High temp will soften the emulsion to a degree where it can actually detach from the film backing itself, but what causes reticulation is a film changed from a high temperature rinse to a much colder rinse where the emulsion is stressed and the grain clumps together and forms an irregular surface which resembles very coarse grain or the surface structure of the human brain.

A film rinsed in high temperature then removed and allowed to cool naturally will not reticulate.

When I was in the Army serving in Cyprus (1965 to 1969 part of my job to process film in an non-airconditioned darkroom where in the summer the temp often reached 120F and the water was only about 10-15 degrees cooler, that was standard practise. In 3 years working in that environment, not once did I get reticulation, or the emulsion sliding off the film base. You just had to be careful that you didn't touch the emulsion until it had cooled or dried.

To see more simply Google:- Causes of reticulation in Photographic film There is a concise section from Ilford.

When you think C41 colour film is normally processed in developer at 38C (100F) actually getting reticulation is very difficult unless the person is brutally stupid because some of the technology for C41 film has been passed onto B&W film.
 
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