Ambitious project!
DIY Color RA4 Processor "RePrinto" A "Modern" Durst Printo clone
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- Thread starter elgatosuizo
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OP
OP
Okay. I have now conducted tests with RA4 Chemistry. The good news: it works! I used it for 3 hours in a row.
The downside was that I burned out the power supply for my M605C (I think, it just doesn't work anymore) and had to use a prototype LED light source that I had built once for this enlarger. These light sources are suitable for black-and-white VC prints, even if they don't quite meet the standards of the fine art of black-and-white enlargement. For color, they're rubbish... or more accurately, can be barely used with some very dodgy tricks to expose anything that looked like a color photo. From far away. I need to look into this LED with RA4 business. It's a challenging and sleep-depriving topic, but I don't think I can get around it. @koraks can sing a song about that... (don't ask me which LED I used, because it's the one you recommend the least).
Anyway, my Printo Clone works pretty well. Not without problems, though: it jammed once, but I think I found the source and a washer should solve that. What's worse is that I have a leak somewhere in the central drum. I printed it with not enough flow (it's the first version. The other one is massive PETG) and something seems to be coming through the PETG layers. I'll dry it and seal it with epoxy.
And the last disaster: I thought I still had some RA4 chemistry. I had some. But it was from 2019. I'll have to get some fresh one. I will test further and then start to collect all infos, files and stuff for a first publication.
The downside was that I burned out the power supply for my M605C (I think, it just doesn't work anymore) and had to use a prototype LED light source that I had built once for this enlarger. These light sources are suitable for black-and-white VC prints, even if they don't quite meet the standards of the fine art of black-and-white enlargement. For color, they're rubbish... or more accurately, can be barely used with some very dodgy tricks to expose anything that looked like a color photo. From far away. I need to look into this LED with RA4 business. It's a challenging and sleep-depriving topic, but I don't think I can get around it. @koraks can sing a song about that... (don't ask me which LED I used, because it's the one you recommend the least).
Anyway, my Printo Clone works pretty well. Not without problems, though: it jammed once, but I think I found the source and a washer should solve that. What's worse is that I have a leak somewhere in the central drum. I printed it with not enough flow (it's the first version. The other one is massive PETG) and something seems to be coming through the PETG layers. I'll dry it and seal it with epoxy.
And the last disaster: I thought I still had some RA4 chemistry. I had some. But it was from 2019. I'll have to get some fresh one. I will test further and then start to collect all infos, files and stuff for a first publication.
It is if you need to figure it all out from the start and the required parts aren't available or very difficult to find. The good news is that (1) I can save you a lot of time by explaining what matters and what doesn't (and why), and (2) the required parts are easily available these days (and quite cheap). If you can teach yourself to 3D print a Printo, you sure can build a perfectly functional color LED head!
Looks like you've got yourself a working process on your hands! The minor details you mentioned are easy to iron out. Congratulations! It's really cool to see this concept working, although I didn't doubt you'd manage it!
OP
OP
I certainly hope so! Thank you! I've read some of your blog posts and find them to be some of the most comprehensive and in-depth you can find online. Impressive. I'll be sure to send you a DM if I need more details. At the moment, there are still many issues to be resolved...
OP
OP
In the meantime, I completely dismantled the machine. I didn't want to do this at first and wanted to wait for a few more tests, but I noticed that I had lost about 60-80 ml of developer. The machine had “sucked” it out. At first, I thought it was poor PETG printing, but it turned out that some of the drums were leaking. The M4 screws that held the gears in the axle were not enough to seal them. There is a hole along the entire axis. In version 2.0, this hole is sealed with silicone glue and a screw from the inside. In version 1.0 (the one with the leaks), I probably didn't do this (consistently). I have now rinsed everything thoroughly and will dry everything in the oven at 40-50°C. After that, I will seal the drums with silicone and grub screws. I will also apply a light coat of 2K epoxy to make sure that nothing gets into the printed parts. The mechanics of version 2.0 (the one for the BLIX) look good. No liquid was “drunk.” I just forgot to use stainless steel screws and used galvanized ones instead. They were already corroded by the BLIX. I will replace them with stainless steel ones. I've ordered some fresh chemicals and will tweak my LED color head (there's not enough red, so I'll try split RGB lighting) so that I can get almost acceptable images. And then, of course, reassemble everything. A major disassembly is necessary every now and then with these devices anyway.
It's amazing how fast that happens, eh!
Split exposures should work OK. The 'not enough red' issue is one I'm familiar with.
OP
OP
Another update after a little time has passed. The system is basically running, but I had to correct a lot of small things. What I noticed (and partially corrected):
- The gears also transport liquid above the fill line. This caused developer fluid to get into the gears of the transport roller of the intro module. This caused the machine steel sleeves there to stick together and apparently also corrode slightly. This made the transport rolls to stick a little bit in the sleeves. I now only use PETG as a bearing and the chamber containing the gears is sealed so that there is no longer any connection to the interior of the entry module.
- I learned how corrosive BLIX is. I hadn't protected the electronics sufficiently and a few drops got onto the stepper driver. It immediately started smoking and gave up the ghost. I have now sealed everything with epoxy, although clean, temperature-conductive silicone compound would be better.
- Overall, there is also a lot of BLIX fumes during use. I think this will damage the stepper over time. Therefore, I am planning an internally sealed stepper mount. This will only be open towards the ventilation grille.
I am now trying to compile and document everything and finally publish the files. But I'm in a situation like Hal, the father from “Malcolm in the Middle.” I actually wanted to test my Printo modules, but when I saw that my LED control for the enlarger wasn't good for color, I decided to develop a new one. Then I realized that my 4x5" enlarger LED light head also had to be compatible with this new control. This led me to notice that my enlarger stand for large formats was wobbly. So I built a new stand. Then I saw that I still had unused linear guides. So I made the enlarger digitally controllable with steppers. All because of the Printo modules. So I was very busy.
- The gears also transport liquid above the fill line. This caused developer fluid to get into the gears of the transport roller of the intro module. This caused the machine steel sleeves there to stick together and apparently also corrode slightly. This made the transport rolls to stick a little bit in the sleeves. I now only use PETG as a bearing and the chamber containing the gears is sealed so that there is no longer any connection to the interior of the entry module.
- I learned how corrosive BLIX is. I hadn't protected the electronics sufficiently and a few drops got onto the stepper driver. It immediately started smoking and gave up the ghost. I have now sealed everything with epoxy, although clean, temperature-conductive silicone compound would be better.
- Overall, there is also a lot of BLIX fumes during use. I think this will damage the stepper over time. Therefore, I am planning an internally sealed stepper mount. This will only be open towards the ventilation grille.
I am now trying to compile and document everything and finally publish the files. But I'm in a situation like Hal, the father from “Malcolm in the Middle.” I actually wanted to test my Printo modules, but when I saw that my LED control for the enlarger wasn't good for color, I decided to develop a new one. Then I realized that my 4x5" enlarger LED light head also had to be compatible with this new control. This led me to notice that my enlarger stand for large formats was wobbly. So I built a new stand. Then I saw that I still had unused linear guides. So I made the enlarger digitally controllable with steppers. All because of the Printo modules. So I was very busy.
Hehe, I like how that project escalated! Very recognizable, too.
The fumes from the BLIX is mostly acetic acid, and yes, that's definitely corrosive. So good job on keeping the lid on that.
I'm not surprised to hear that a few drops of BLIX fried a power board; the liquid will be quite conductive so it'll basically just create a short.
The fumes from the BLIX is mostly acetic acid, and yes, that's definitely corrosive. So good job on keeping the lid on that.
I'm not surprised to hear that a few drops of BLIX fried a power board; the liquid will be quite conductive so it'll basically just create a short.
OP
OP
I first develeoped a new controller that is able to control the simple WS2812b but also PWM with Cree-Style LED's (with correct wavelenghts, especially red 660nm and green 550nm). I will build a small lighthead for my 605er with the cree LED's.
in btw this is the result of the 4X5" enlarger rebuild (old version on th left):
Focusing with the remote jopystick is really practical
I imagine it is, indeed! Very cool setup. You're giving Heiland a run for his money alright.
Very impressive! Well done.
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