Dilemma - what film to carry

[BrianShaw]

If the scene has great light ...

But it didn't. There certainly wasn't enough to get the shot at that time, and it is only speculation that one might get the shot with faster film had some been available.

It is sometimes a tough choice: get a shot that is less than "real" versus not getting a shot at all.

 

[Hatchetman]

I almost always shoot 100 speed for 35mm. If I know I will encounter some low light situations, I bring a mini-tripod (like a tabletop model) and cable release. The tripod I can brace against a pole or mailbox or something.

 

[Nuff]

But it didn't. There certainly wasn't enough to get the shot at that time, and it is only speculation that one might get the shot with faster film had some been available.

It is sometimes a tough choice: get a shot that is less than "real" versus not getting a shot at all.

It would have been great light if the equipment allowed, but since it didn't. It wasn't meant to be. A flash would alter scene dramatically. Since to me light is very important. Even if there's not a lot of it.

Sometimes it's not meant to be, so got to be prepared for it. For example the following photo which is Delta pushed to 6400, would be very different if taken with flash (my friend took same photo with flash and they were):


Hands by Jarek Miszkinis, on Flickr

 

[BrianShaw]

It would have been great light if the equipment allowed, but since it didn't. It wasn't meant to be. A flash would alter scene dramatically. Since to me light is very important. Even if there's not a lot of it.

Sometimes it's not meant to be, so got to be prepared for it. ...

You are absoulutely correct. Sometimes it's not meant to be!

 

[MattKrull]

800 is not enough for squat in low light...

It's only one stop less than 1600, which the OP had stated as an option "I wish I'd had some Delta3200 or natura 1600 or something along those lines with me." So you're under exposed by a stop, that's not unrecoverable in the darkroom. Heck, even two stops is thin and gets you inky shadows, but if the photo was interesting it'll still be interesting. And of course, you can push the whole roll if you want to. Throw it in Tmax and you can get 3200 out of it (or so the Massive Dev Chart tells me, I've never tried).

 

[ericdan]

Shutter speed is an issue too. I can't shoot people in the rain at 1/8th. I think a roll of delta 3200 would be good to keep in my bag for these situations.

 

[blaine.minazzi]

tri x, or delta 3200 and a monopod... Also makes for walking stick and defensive weapon, and can shoot down to 1/8 or so when you use camera strap and the existing bi-pod you take everywhere with you.

Bracing against light poles or walls, etc. Second body is nice, but I would rather note frame, rewind, mark film leader with sharpie, then if I only had a few - to half of the exposures used, you can reload, shoot blanks with lens cap on till you get to the previous last frame, advance 2 - 3 more and go on your way.

Another trick, if you just need a bit more speed, and are not way off - velvia 50 loaded, and B&W 1600 needed... is to just shoot 4 blank frames ( 6 inches of film ), and then shoot the same film and plan on pushing it. Make note of the frame you were one before you started with the underexposed stuff. Back home, rewind till the leader just pops off. Reload and advance to the noted frame. Advance 2 more. open back. place finger gently on film at the take up side of the shutter. Crease film strongly there. ( or cut and place in light tight film can or load and process ) Rewind and note.
Later when processing, cut the film at the crease, and process the original end at the normal dev, and push the tail end. You can also do similar with 120, but it is a pain in the arse. Just give yourself a blank frame or two. For me, if I am mostly done, I just call it good and rewind & reload ( obviously no rewind on 120) . If I have just started a 24 or 36 exp. roll, I advance a few and shoot, later do the crease or process. 120, really depends on where I am in the roll. Easy enough to rewind it on the spool in the darkroom, retape at beginning, wind back to the blank frame, and cut and develop. Just thread the tail end in the reel, as the cut end usually is a bit short to avoid damage with the clip. So tape end gets threaded - and tail end gets threaded, and the cut frame is usually fine.

 

[ericdan]

A monopod would help me keep the camera steady but my subjects are still running around. I think I'm looking for 1/125 or 1/250 to freeze motion.

 

[Jaf-Photo]

I keep it simple. Four films, two colour and two B&W with ISO 100 and 400. Usually it's Ektar, Portra, T-MAX and Tri-X. Very allround.

 

[removed account4]

hi ericdan

i have a feeling the best film to have in your camera, is whatever film happens to be in your camera
you might experiment a little bit in similar situations ( low gloomy light ) to see how your methods work.
i'm not typical, i don't use typical processing chemistry or methods so i am going refrain from telling
you to do xyz and process in in abc because you won't get the same results ..
having a flash is helpful too ..

have fun!
john

 

[eddie]

You said, "It was amazing how everybody was running around and going crazy in the unexpected heavy rain." If your intent was to convey the chaos the rain caused, a little movement may have helped emphasize it. This sounds like a case where freezing the action could work against what you were trying to communicate.

 

[removed account4]

You said, "It was amazing how everybody was running around and going crazy in the unexpected heavy rain." If your intent was to convey the chaos the rain caused, a little movement may have helped emphasize it. This sounds like a case where freezing the action could work against what you were trying to communicate.

i held my tongue but i was going to suggest dragging the shutter to emphasize the movement &c ...
thanks for reinforcing what i was thinking ...
john

 

[eddie]

A "perfect" ISO/shutter speed/f-stop/exposure does not always make a "perfect" photograph. Being able to convey what drew us to make the exposure is the most important component. In this case, I think a little movement may have been more convincing in capturing the "running around and going crazy".

 

[ericdan]

Very good point indeed! After all sticking to tri-x and/or HP5+ would've done the trick it seems.

 

[Jaf-Photo]

Well, I respect the notion that you wanted to freeze movement. If you have a heavy downpour, bad light and slow shutter speed (camera shake), it probably could have turned out a blurry mess.

But I believe in happy accidents so I would have taken the shot with the wrong film anyway. It works more often than you think.

 

[eddie]

If you have a heavy downpour, bad light and slow shutter speed (camera shake), it probably could have turned out a blurry mess.

Or, a blurry beauty... The only guarantee is, if you don't shoot it, you won't get it.

It sounds like a perfect example of adding serendipity to an image. Too often we tell ourselves we don't have the proper tools. Taking chances, where we don't think something will work, often expands our notion of what the proper tool is.

 

[removed account4]

Or, a blurry beauty... The only guarantee is, if you don't shoot it, you won't get it.

It sounds like a perfect example of adding serendipity to an image. Too often we tell ourselves we don't have the proper tools. Taking chances, where we don't think something will work, often expands our notion of what the proper tool is.

THANK YO U!

 

[ericdan]

Yeah! Asking for too much I think. The 100iso slide film was unlucky though. I'll start carrying both cameras from now on.

 

[eddie]

The 100iso slide film was unlucky though.

How can you know it was unlucky if you didn't try? It could have been a dismal failure. It could have been magnificent. Most likely, it would have fallen somewhere in between. At the very least, trying something you don't think will work will expand your knowledge base. Film is a very flexible medium. It will usually yield results, even when "experts" say it won't.
Next time, don't sell yourself (or materials) short. It sounds like there were image possibilities you considered worthwhile. You abandoned the chance because you ignored your most important tool (your brain/imagination), and made them secondary to the least important tools (film/camera).

 

[StoneNYC]

Kodachrome 64 (that's 2/3 a stop slower than your 100 speed film)

Probably the same amount of light you had to work with... (I mean the amount the people were exposed not the light in the window which is obviously brighter).

Just saying you don't know until you try...



Also, try and guess WHEN this was taken because you won't believe me

 

[ericdan]

Never been to New York. Hard to tell from this pic when it was taken. But must've been before 2010?!

 

[StoneNYC]

Never been to New York. Hard to tell from this pic when it was taken. But must've been before 2010?!

Heh... You would think....

 

[ericdan]

So when was it?

 

[Dr Croubie]

Kodachrome 64 (that's 2/3 a stop slower than your 100 speed film)
Also, try and guess WHEN this was taken because you won't believe me

Given that it's Kodachrome, I can 100% guarantee that it was shot on or before January 18 2011

 

[ericdan]

Maybe he's got a secret k-14 lab somewhere!?