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MattKing

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What is your opinion, can a Beseler 23ciii head easily knocked out of position or it should be sturdy enough to return to the exactly same place?
It will return to the same place.

And with respect to the two loose ends of the easel arms, just gaffer tape them to each other when you have them set correctly.
 

Roger Cole

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Even with shipping you should be able to get a used one that has the blades attached at both ends [much better]. Watch APUG Classifieds and http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/forumdisplay.php?27-For-Sale-Wanted

They are expensive. I have a wonderful V-Track Saunders 11x14 (forget the model number, could go look later) but for 16x20 I just bought a NOS Bogen two blade. Not ideal but it does work, and if the print is going to be mounted anyway, it's ok. I'd love to have a good 16x20 (or better, 20x24 though I'd need new trays to go to that size) easel but they are PRICEY even used, not to mention shipping.
 

bence8810

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They are expensive. I have a wonderful V-Track Saunders 11x14 (forget the model number, could go look later) but for 16x20 I just bought a NOS Bogen two blade. Not ideal but it does work, and if the print is going to be mounted anyway, it's ok. I'd love to have a good 16x20 (or better, 20x24 though I'd need new trays to go to that size) easel but they are PRICEY even used, not to mention shipping.

Yup - this exactly!

I am ok with the current process and if the head doesn't get knocked out of alignment, I will just have to do away with switching filters. I mostly print small so then I won't have to go through this pain.

All the best,
Ben
 

Roger Cole

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Yup - this exactly!

I am ok with the current process and if the head doesn't get knocked out of alignment, I will just have to do away with switching filters. I mostly print small so then I won't have to go through this pain.

All the best,
Ben

I'm not in Tokyo but even state side shipping can be substantial. The big bar for me though is just the price of a really good 4 blade 16x20, especially given that 11x14 is my much more usual print size and I have that 11x14 V-Track (recommended to me in the 90s by a friend who then ran a custom lab as the best easel available, and I think he may well have been right.)
 

mooseontheloose

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In Japan it's hard (and expensive) to buy a 20x24 easel (Saunders etc) and buying from overseas would be dreadful with shipping.
I just checked with Yodobashi the local dealer, Kaiser is available for a mere $2,000 USD locally:smile:
http://www.yodobashi.com/カイザー-プロマスク-50×60cm/pd/100000001000882581/

Ben

Don't you just love Japan, selling items at full retail value even when no one is buying...

It took a long time for me to find my enlarger, and just when I was about to bite the bullet and pay way more than I wanted, I found someone locally who was giving away her entire darkroom setup for free. Lucky break for me, although I wish it had been a 4x5 enlarger, instead of 6x7. Beggars can't be choosers though. :wink:

Also, concerning the blades, I agree with Matt's suggestion about taping them, if you haven't already tried that.
 

Luis-F-S

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No idea only enlarger I've printed that small is a Leitz. I would try it n see if the focus shifts.
 
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jerrybro

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I've used condensor and color heads on my Beseler and I prefer the condensor for BW printing. I find it simpler and faster, which makes it more repeatable for me.
 
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If both negs are exposed and developed to suit the enlarger, light source doesn't makes any real difference. I have and use both, the differences are minor to say the least. I would use a diffuser so i don't have to fiddle with a filter drawer.

If the neg is developed to right contrast for the enlarger in use, little tone difference. Neg moved from one to another, you will see a difference.
 
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