Dr Croubie
Member
Hi all, so here's what happened.
I had a Super Angulon 90/8 (Technika-marked), in a nice Compur Electronic 1 shutter, until I stabbed a screwdriver through the blades. I've been trying to find a new Compur Electronic 1, but they're few and far between and expensive when they appear (like $400 or fleabay BIN, but with a lens mounted).
So in the meantime I've bought a few different shutters, but it doesn't re-mount, the rear element pushes so far into the body that the aperture won't close in front of the glass, it gets stuck around.
I've done some measuring (all +/- 0.1mm until I get a better setup), and on the Compur Electronic 1 shutter, I get 8.8mm flange-to-aperture. On a Compur 1 I get 7.8mm. On a Prontor Press 1 I get 7.8mm. On all of these the front-to-rear flanges are 20.0mm (this may be +/- 0.5mm as it's trickier to measure).
Now, the lens elements themselves look like they're #0 sized, but they're in adapters to fit them into #1. Measuring the rear element, I get 8.4mm from flange* to edge-of-glass, hence the fouling.
(*flange of the #1 adapter fitted on the elements)
So first question, I'm presuming the 20mm flange-to-flange is fixed, but do any other shutter brands/types vary the flange-to-aperture distance?
I can easily insert a 0.5mm shim in the back to stop the rear element fouling the aperture, but then I'm increasing the flange-flange distance so that will probably bork the sharpness. I don't think shaving the front to match will work either, so that option is probably out.
Also, as these are technically #0-sized elements, would they fit a #0 sized shutter without fouling? I don't have one lying around (all I have are #1 plus one #00) to measure. If someone has one to measure, is the rear flange-to-aperture distance more or less on a #0?
I had a Super Angulon 90/8 (Technika-marked), in a nice Compur Electronic 1 shutter, until I stabbed a screwdriver through the blades. I've been trying to find a new Compur Electronic 1, but they're few and far between and expensive when they appear (like $400 or fleabay BIN, but with a lens mounted).
So in the meantime I've bought a few different shutters, but it doesn't re-mount, the rear element pushes so far into the body that the aperture won't close in front of the glass, it gets stuck around.
I've done some measuring (all +/- 0.1mm until I get a better setup), and on the Compur Electronic 1 shutter, I get 8.8mm flange-to-aperture. On a Compur 1 I get 7.8mm. On a Prontor Press 1 I get 7.8mm. On all of these the front-to-rear flanges are 20.0mm (this may be +/- 0.5mm as it's trickier to measure).
Now, the lens elements themselves look like they're #0 sized, but they're in adapters to fit them into #1. Measuring the rear element, I get 8.4mm from flange* to edge-of-glass, hence the fouling.
(*flange of the #1 adapter fitted on the elements)
So first question, I'm presuming the 20mm flange-to-flange is fixed, but do any other shutter brands/types vary the flange-to-aperture distance?
I can easily insert a 0.5mm shim in the back to stop the rear element fouling the aperture, but then I'm increasing the flange-flange distance so that will probably bork the sharpness. I don't think shaving the front to match will work either, so that option is probably out.
Also, as these are technically #0-sized elements, would they fit a #0 sized shutter without fouling? I don't have one lying around (all I have are #1 plus one #00) to measure. If someone has one to measure, is the rear flange-to-aperture distance more or less on a #0?