Developing Times for Hotter Days In Summer

[Donald Qualls]

Ah, okay, context got lost.

Yep, I see Braxus used 4:30 and I've have gotten ~5.6 (= 5:35) -- which is about 15% difference, and quite probably photographically significant difference. Might well be that the figure of 4% per degree F or 7% per degree C varies with different developers, since most have more than one developing agent and different agents might have different rates of activity change with temperature (for instance, hydroquinone in a multi-agent developer becomes nearly inert in terms of developing action below about 16 C, leading to a sudden, sharp increase in required time below that temperature).

I can only say I've used my method (with Fahrenheit thermometer) at darkroom temperatures up to around 90 F (34-35 C) with results reasonably comparable to "normal" 68F/20C process at published times. Most of the developing I did at that temperature, however, was with Parodinal, a single agent developer; dual- or multi-agent chemistry might well have a more complex response.

 

[MattKing]

Might well be that the figure of 4% per degree F or 7% per degree C varies with different developers,

There may also be some variance that relates to differences in the films - emulsion thickness, for example.

 

[pentaxuser]

Thanks Donald and Matt. So a reasonable conclusion looks to be that there may be no general conversion chart/formula that is universally correct for all films and developers. The correct conversion is dependent on temperature mainly but developer and film differences such as thickness may have an effect.

However in most cases and unless the difference between the various charts and formulas are significant in terms of time then it may be moot unless the resulting time was so short that a few seconds resulted in an appreciable difference in time.

In most if not all cases this only occurs when the times adjusted for temperature rises result in very short developing times

pentaxuser

 

[afriman]

Here's the Ilford chart. Although it doesn't distinguish between different films and developers, I've found it very reliable.

 

[afriman]

Ah, okay, context got lost.

Yep, I see Braxus used 4:30 and I've have gotten ~5.6 (= 5:35) -- which is about 15% difference, and quite probably photographically significant difference. Might well be that the figure of 4% per degree F or 7% per degree C varies with different developers, since most have more than one developing agent and different agents might have different rates of activity change with temperature (for instance, hydroquinone in a multi-agent developer becomes nearly inert in terms of developing action below about 16 C, leading to a sudden, sharp increase in required time below that temperature).

I can only say I've used my method (with Fahrenheit thermometer) at darkroom temperatures up to around 90 F (34-35 C) with results reasonably comparable to "normal" 68F/20C process at published times. Most of the developing I did at that temperature, however, was with Parodinal, a single agent developer; dual- or multi-agent chemistry might well have a more complex response.

This is interesting, as I've come across the advice to keep temperatures on the low side with Rodinal — preferably no higher than 18-20C. Higher temperatures supposedly lead to more pronounced grain. I am also curious to know whether very high temperatures (around 30C) have an impact on image characteristics with other developers.

 

[beemermark]

Way too complicated. Right now my tap water is 78~80F. In winter it'll be around 60. I simply put the beaker with the chemicals in a bigger bowl with either ice cubes or hot water to get the chemicals to 68 deg F. No math, charts, etc, involved. Same processing time year round.

 

[MattKing]

Way too complicated. Right now my tap water is 78~80F. In winter it'll be around 60. I simply put the beaker with the chemicals in a bigger bowl with either ice cubes or hot water to get the chemicals to 68 deg F. No math, charts, etc, involved. Same processing time year round.

And for me in my normally very temperate climate, I just have my replenished developer and everything else at the ambient temperature, and develop the film at the time indicated on the Dataguide dial.
Simplicity is in the eye of the beholder.

 

[beemermark]

And for me in my normally very temperate climate, I just have my replenished developer and everything else at the ambient temperature, and develop the film at the time indicated on the Dataguide dial.
Simplicity is in the eye of the beholder.

I only adjust the developer temp since my tap water varies a lot (and I mix 1:1). My other chemicals are at ambient temp since my house is air conditioned or heated as needed and the temp doesn't vary by more than a few degrees over the year. Your reply got me thinking though. I could keep a gallon of water with my other chemicals and I wouldn't have to cool or warm the developer mix in a water bath.

 

[MattKing]

When I am well organized, I fill a coupe of large containers with near room temperature tap water an hour or so before developing film - it reaches ambient temperature quite quickly.

 

[cjbecker]

When I am well organized, I fill a coupe of large containers with near room temperature tap water an hour or so before developing film - it reaches ambient temperature quite quickly.

For normal roll film developing. Using a 2x120 nikor tank. I will use 2 gal of rinse water for both the stop and ilford style rinse. For stop I fill the tank 2x and do inversion. For the rinse, fill, 30 inversions and dump, 5x.

For a singe 120 nikor tank, doing all the same only uses 1 gal of rinse water.

Once I put the film to hang, I will refill my wash water jugs, that way all liquid is the same temp for the next developing session.

This is using tmax 400 with tf4 fixer and the film has no purple left.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I adjust the development time for the temperature and when the development time is less than 5 minutes, I either

• get up earlier in the morning to develop film
• put the chemicals and the wash water in the refrigerator to chill them
• add ice cubes to the Jobo processor top deck to chill the bath water and let the temperature equilibrate
• have the air conditioner start running the night before

I usually do the last.

 

[pentaxuser]

I adjust the development time for the temperature and when the development time is less than 5 minutes,/QUOTE]

Sal, in the U.K. the best option is to avoid doing any development that one special afternoon in the year. Well it was the best option until recently. Last year I had a good crop of figs - unheard of at these latitudes even in the recent past. So it's good laxative food or good film development

 

[MurrayMinchin]

I used a Zone VI Compensating Developing Timer for tray developing of both 4x5 negatives and paper...brilliant!

You develop for the time on the digital display, but it would speed up or slow down according to whichever time-temperature curve (negatives or paper) it was set to, and as a result, the agitation timing and duration remained the same.

There are probably more modern equivalents with probes/sensors for roll film tanks.

 

[mohmad khatab]

Can anyone share a link to the Ilford chart?

Can these tables and data be used with all types of developers (Rodinal, Kalogen, .... or ... etc.) or are those tables and data intended to be used with only one developer formula?

 

[DMJ]

The Ilford chart is for all film/development combinations.
The Kodak charts from Kodak Datasheet are for specific Kodak film/developers combinations for making negatives for diffusion enlargers.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Can these tables and data be used with all types of developers (Rodinal, Kalogen, .... or ... etc.) or are those tables and data intended to be used with only one developer formula?

The charts are intended to be specific to the listed developers, but most developers will exhibit similar change in activity with temperature over a range from about 15 C to somewhere above 30 C. Outside that range, things may break down for one reason or another.

 

[MattKing]

The Ilford chart is for all film/development combinations.
The Kodak charts from Kodak Datasheet are for specific Kodak film/developers combinations for making negatives for diffusion enlargers.

The Kodak Developing dial is for all film/developer combinations. The tables in the data sheets are keyed to particular film/developer combinations and diffusion enlargers, but one can simply adjust the recommendation for different enlargers.
Any manufacturer's (or photographer's) recommendation for any film/developer can be "plugged into" the Kodak Developing dial, and the dial can be used from there.
As I posted earlier, some people have observed that with some of the newest films and developers (e.g. T-Max in X-Tol) the dial may may recommend slightly different from optimal results at the high end of the range. For them, it would be better to set-up the dial based on manufacturer's 24C recommendations, rather than the 20C recommendations.

 

[afriman]

Can these tables and data be used with all types of developers (Rodinal, Kalogen, .... or ... etc.) or are those tables and data intended to be used with only one developer formula?

See post #54

 

[Pieter12]

I will immerse a small frozen water bottle in my developer pitcher until the solution temperature comes down to 20ºC if the temperature is over 23º. Conversely, I will put all the solution pitchers in a hot water bath to bring them up to 20º if it is cold in the darkroom. The charts that I have seen not recommending temperatures of 24º or higher are when it shortens the development time to less than 5 minutes.

 

[faberryman]

I use the Ilford Time/Temp Compensation Chart easily found online.

Here is Ilford's conversion chart:

https://www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Temperature-compensation-chart.pdf

 

[mohmad khatab]

See post #54

Thank you my dear brother
Greetings .