Developing Jessops R100 in Ilfotec DDX or Paranol S

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Tom Cross

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Does anyone know the development time (or how to calculate it) of Jessops R100 B&W using either Paranol S or Ilfotec DDX?

I only have two rolls and don't want to buy something specially.

Many thanks,
Tom.
 

Ian Grant

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Jessops R100 is EFKE R50, the speed in the R50 name is the Tungsten ISO not the daylight sped which is higher
IIRC, Jessops R100 was rebranded EFKE R100.

No Jessops R100 was in fact re-branded EFKE R50 the 50 being the Tungsten speed not the Daylight ISO.

You won't be far off using DDX and the FP4+ time, shoot at the recommended 100 ISO. I've used a lot of EFKE film over the years and the results are excellent, it's a soft emulsion keep all your process temperatures tigh including washing to within +/- 1ºC of 20ºC

Ian
 
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Tom Cross

Tom Cross

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Developed it tonight - came out fine except for dark (light) edges to both sides of the negative evenly throughout the roll. It was also it bit speckly throughout. Not sure what caused that.
 
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Tom Cross

Tom Cross

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Here is a pic of the negative
 

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pdeeh

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I bought a few rolls of R100 a couple of years ago and every one looked exactly like this.

as Ian says, age
 
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Tom Cross

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Thanks for looking Ian! I was concerned it was me (I loaded the film in broad daylight!).
 
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Tom Cross

Tom Cross

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I bought a few rolls of R100 a couple of years ago and every one looked exactly like this.

as Ian says, age

It obviously doesn't like being kept for a long time! I half thought it might be alright, as it was in a foil pack and box and had been kept in a dark loft since at least 1995. It was a good practice for loading 120 film into the spiral though, it went in quite smoothly.
 

Xmas

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It obviously doesn't like being kept for a long time! I half thought it might be alright, as it was in a foil pack and box and had been kept in a dark loft since at least 1995. It was a good practice for loading 120 film into the spiral though, it went in quite smoothly.

A loft unless insulated has big temperature and humidity swings, and is the last place for storage of film or cameras.
 
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Tom Cross

Tom Cross

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A loft unless insulated has big temperature and humidity swings, and is the last place for storage of film or cameras.
Thanks Xmas, I didn't fully explain, but the point of the exercise was practice loading 120 film into a spiral. I thought I'd use this instead of potentially wasting new film. Any images produced by it was always going to be a bonus!
 

Xmas

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Thanks Xmas, I didn't fully explain, but the point of the exercise was practice loading 120 film into a spiral. I thought I'd use this instead of potentially wasting new film. Any images produced by it was always going to be a bonus!
Ok but I'm still using film from last century and only have problems with a higher base fog level.
You might have been ok with better storage.
Efke did warn about acid stop and recommended hardened stop bath or fixer.
120 is well difficult to load, good to practice.
 
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120 is well difficult to load, good to practice.
I haven't found loading 120 in my old 3-reel Paterson difficult at all.
Last week Juliano gave me a roll of Ilford HP4 (45-50 years old?) to develop.
Film was very curly, still load fine.
Pictures were very foggy.
 
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Tom Cross

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I found it surprisingly easy, and even easier after changing hands (initially feeding with my right hand - im right handed). Biggest thing to get used to is working blind!
 

Xmas

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I haven't found loading 120 in my old 3-reel Paterson difficult at all.
Last week Juliano gave me a roll of Ilford HP4 (45-50 years old?) to develop.
Film was very curly, still load fine.
Pictures were very foggy.
HP4 was about 65-75.
120 is easy to get unto spirals but it is difficult to avoid getting marks from stress...
Xfighters in the sky...
 
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but it is difficult to avoid getting marks from stress...
Yeah, I see what you mean.
That film was so foggy that any marks were invisible.
 
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