For my semi stand it's Rodinal 1:100. That doesn't really count money-wise. And letting it stand an hour doesn't waste time either. No problem if you forgot and it's longer, the solution has used itself up after an hour.
For my semi stand it's Rodinal 1:100. That doesn't really count money-wise. And letting it stand an hour doesn't waste time either. No problem if you forgot and it's longer, the solution has used itself up after an hour.Works fine, but uses 10X the chemicals needed. You either have to re-use the chemicals and deal with replenishment/time adjustment/record keeping, or throw them out. Just a waste of time or money or both.
Works fine, but uses 10X the chemicals needed. You either have to re-use the chemicals and deal with replenishment/time adjustment/record keeping, or throw them out. Just a waste of time or money or both.
I have been using tank and hanger for 50+ years. Reliable and versatile, even for stand development.
xkaes,
Thank you for pointing that out. I use tanks in 500ml, 1000ml, 2000ml, and 4000ml sizes depending on number of sheets to develop. Always diluted one shot. Very economical.
chuckroast,
These hangers from Calumet work very well for extended development.
It depends on how much film I have to develop. If it’s just a few sheets I’ll do semi stand in hangers/tanks. If it’s more than a few sheets I’ll fire up the ATL 3 with a 3010 tank. I haven’t had the issues others have mentioned with the metal hangers, using mostly pyrocat HD
Wow! I'm impressed with all of the options for developing 4x5 film. I guess I won't be dunking film in a tank in the dark anymore.
I think my best options are the Mod54 in a Paterson tank or the Stearman SP-445.
Thanks everyone!
I use Kodak hard rubber tanks with the floating lids and the steel holders.
No problems, easy setup, easy knock down and ideal for still bath development.
I also use open tanks to process sheet film. However, for still (semistand/EMA) development, I have found that the stainless steel framed holders are highly prone to bromide drag and streaking. I have confirmed this multiple times with various film and developer combinations. I suspect that the problem is developer trapping along the inner ridges of the frame and not being refreshed because of the infrequent agitations.
Consequently, I use the pinch style minimal contact hangers like the Kodak #6
I'm new to stand, semi-stand development and I've always use a 'full frame' SS Kodak hanger, when processing sheet films, in the darkrooms of professionals, always the same model, with the exception of a four sheet hanger, gallon plus tank system, so when I started with my Speed Graphic Ani. LF, those are the type I looked for and bought.
This is never minding a brief affair with small tray hand processing, on my own when I had a 4"x5" Sinar, my first LF camera. I hated it though the films looked good.
I just took a look at the Kodak #6, and liked what I saw, but I don't ever recall an issue with Bromide Drag, with these and I think it's because of how aggressive I'm agitating all films, in tanks and on hangers.
I totally lift out the hangers, at a sharp drain angle, drain, rewet, drain and repeat then a good set of raps to the hangers, in the tanks.
I'm thinking people are simply too gentle handling ng their films, keeping the hangers horizontal to the tank and, possibly, not completely lifting out their hangers, so they get drag marks, IMO.
As much as I like the pinch type, I'll be buying only a few used ones, when able, for stand developing, as needed, as I already have a couple dozen Kodak film hangers and they are very quick to load and process.
I think that is why I never ran into the Kodak #6 in the several labs I worked in, speed, simplicity and typical processing, all being key to a stressed photographer or darkroom worker's long sessions.
Otherwise, I guess my sample group and experiences are too small.
Cheers and Godspeed to All!
For conventional development with regular agitation, the framed hangers work great, and I never had an issue with them. PMK Pyro's very high aerial oxidation rate does mean you have to agitate every 15 seconds or so. The #6s are only mandated for long duration, low agitation protocols.
I use BTZS tubes for 4x5 and my own homemade tubes for 5x7. Low volumes of chemicals required and development times can be tailored for each sheet. I usually develop six 4x5 sheets at once, or four 5x7 sheets.
BTZS tubes, usually.
Thanks for following up; I also never did any stand developing at other's darkrooms, a social failing on their part, not mine, or, at least that's my story.
How do you all develop 4x5 B&W film?
I've tried the tray method--hated it. I ended up buying three rubber tanks, stainless steel film hangers, and doing the entire process in the dark using "raise-and-dip" agitation. That was when I had a dedicated darkroom forty years ago.
How do people do it today, and how much is the equipment likely to cost if bought new? I won't be doing high volumes--probably around 10-20 sheets a month.
Interesting. How do you control temperature for C-41 using the roller base? Or, am I misreading the comment...I use Unicolor tubes (the smaller size ones). They can do one 8x10, two 5x7 or four 4x5 sheets and only need 300ml of fluid to completely cover the surface. I have the motorized roller base--you can use the Unicolor one or the Beseler. The setup also works for C-41 developing.
Interesting. How do you control temperature for C-41 using the roller base? Or, am I misreading the comment...
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