Developing B&W 4x5 Film

xkaes

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JOBOs are great but expensive, as many have mentioned. Tanks waste chemicals like they are free. There are lots of very inexpensive tubes that work just fine (Ilford, Cibachrome, Unicolor, Colourtronic...), and are incredibly stingy with chemicals (2oz. for four 4xr5).
 

MattKing

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Replenished developer will release you from the tyranny of wasted developer worries.
 

xkaes

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MattKing said:
Replenished developer will release you from the tyranny of wasted developer worries.
Click to expand...

If you don't mind the nuisance of keeping track of how old your developer is, and how much film it has developed. Even with replenishment, the second, third, fourth, etc. emulsion in the soup doesn't get the real McCoy, but I suppose if you are a "bookkeeper/accountant" type, record keeping can be fun!
 
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SodaAnt

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Wow! I'm impressed with all of the options for developing 4x5 film. I guess I won't be dunking film in a tank in the dark anymore.

I think my best options are the Mod54 in a Paterson tank or the Stearman SP-445.

Thanks everyone!
 

Sirius Glass

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First of all no soup is involved with replenishment. Secondly replenishment is done at the end of each development session, so there is no bookkeeping involved that is more than what is encountered without replenishment.
 

btaylor

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I do my B&W film developing one shot, but RA4 using a replenishment routine. As Sirius points out I also find replenishment very simple, it all takes place when you pour it back into the container- it just becomes part of the routine.
For 4x5 developing I usually use the HP Combiplan tank. It’s super simple, does the job. I bought one of those Yankee tanks when I was a kid developing 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 sheet film as it is adjustable for the smaller sheets. I read a lot of people complaining about it, but it always worked just fine for me.
 

cliveh

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Why not develop a single sheet of 5" X 4" film in a standard Paterson tank that takes 6cm X 6cm without the spiral in it. I think if it were curved on the 5" axis it would fit. You couldn't use the central pole, but just turn the lights out to change from dev to stop to fix.
 

mwdake

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If you have a Paterson Multi Tank or similar you can use the taco method to develop a couple of sheets at a time.
I’ve tried it and it works quite well. Just remember to have the emulsion facing in so that the rubber bands don’t interfere with it.
 

MattKing

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And don't forget to put the centre core in too!
 

cliveh

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MattKing said:
And don't forget to put the centre core in too!
Click to expand...

I'm not sure the centre core would work without the spiral to stabilise it's position.
 

MattKing

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cliveh said:
I'm not sure the centre core would work without the spiral to stabilise it's position.
Click to expand...

mwdake said:
If I remember right the lid stabilizes the core.
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mwdake is correct - at least in reference to the current Super System IV tanks that have been around since the late 1980s.
 

mwdake

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MattKing said:
mwdake is correct - at least in reference to the current Super System IV tanks that have been around since the late 1980s.
Click to expand...

Same for the older style System 4 tanks with the screw on lid.
I actually prefer the older System 4 tanks even though I do have some of the newer Super System 4 tanks.
 

DREW WILEY

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Does "replenished" equate to "reconstituted", like the taste of reconstituted powdered eggs? Either way, eggs or developer, I prefer to stick with fresh.
 

Sirius Glass

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DREW WILEY said:
Does "replenished" equate to "reconstituted", like the taste of reconstituted powdered eggs? Either way, eggs or developer, I prefer to stick with fresh.
Click to expand...

No, but you can continue to backpack with dehydrated water and condensed air.
 

DREW WILEY

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Ha! Just a moment ago, over on the LF Forum, someone asked about a developer formula involving an anhydrous ingredient. The person who replied reminded them to use distilled water for the mix. So then I politely informed everyone that anhydrous distilled water is cheaper to ship because it weighs less.
 

eli griggs

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I use hangers and rubber tanks, having disliked trays, but, a plastic multi drawer shelf unit, five drawers or three, will allow sheets to be done, in the dark, one at a time and more, if you make a frame that transfers from one drawer to the next, without carrying too much chemistry.

To agitate, simply pull and push the drawer with film in and (mostly) out of the unit.

A basic 3-D printer should be able to make a custom rack(s) easily and this might aid those using tight closets, etc, as darkroom spaces.

IMO.
 

xkaes

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When I do my film or paper development tests I always use freshly mixed developer. And I'm safe developing the same film or paper again -- with fresh developer. In no way would I assume the same results after replenishing -- in whatever way. How about after five replenishings? 10? 20? 50? Without tests, you're on thin ice.
 

MattKing

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If you are using replenished developer already with roll film, and you are achieving consistent results with it, then it is a great idea to use it for sheet film.
If you have never used it before, than there are pros and cons with starting to use it with Large Format, when you are also starting to use it with Large Format.
But if you are considering using replenishment with the film you are already developing, than one big reason for using it is its practicality with Large Format.
 

DREW WILEY

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The less variables, the better. Too much effort and expense goes into large format practice, and even many MF projects, to warrant gambling with the unknown. Developer expense is such a minor part of it anyway, in relation to the bigger cost picture. Plus we pyro addicts are typically dealing with developers not very friendly to the replenishment approach. But whatever works for others is fine if the shoe fits their own foot.

But I've experimented with all kinds of methods over the years : simple drums, Jobo Pro multi-drums, wretched Combi-Plan tanks, and have largely settled on shuffle-style tray development as the most straightforward and consistent. For roll film, I use basic Jobo hand-inversion tanks. The main point is to get very comfortable with whatever works for you, so that it becomes second-nature and highly predictable.
 
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