Determine Flexicolor replenishment rates for various chemicals

[MingMingPhoto]

Hi all.

I'm reading z131 ("bible" of flexicolor chemicals do's and don'ts)

I ran into this chart, but I can't even read it. Does anyone know how to read this?

 

[mshchem]

The figures in parentheses are mL/meter of 35mm film. Most of the big processing companies, trim and splice many, many rolls of film end to end. This is put on a large reel, like movie film for protection and run through continuously, thus the meter figures. Dig around a bit into some other Kodak literature, somewhere they list by 80 sq. Inches which is equal to 36exp, 120, or 8x10 sheet.

 

[MingMingPhoto]

The figures in parentheses are mL/meter of 35mm film. Most of the big processing companies, trim and splice many, many rolls of film end to end. This is put on a large reel, like movie film for protection and run through continuously, thus the meter figures. Dig around a bit into some other Kodak literature, somewhere they list by 80 sq. Inches which is equal to 36exp, 120, or 8x10 sheet.

Thanks for getting back to me!

So I did the math and it looks like they are talking about 8 rolls here? (After I did math I got 8.8582625) So almost 9 rolls.
So do you think I can just use that to calculate how much solution to replenish? What is the number not in parentheses? That's the amount of needed replenisher in ml right?

But can you please explain the full graph? So I can make sure I'm reading it right. Because I'm not sure.

 

[lantau]

You can ignore the column on the right. Advantix was an APS film. The number in front/outside of the parenthesis is the volume (in mL) per 24 exposure roll of 35mm film. The number inside the parenthesis is the volume (in mL) per meter of film.

Since you are likely to develop 36 exposure rolls multiply the first number by 1.5. So 30mL of developer replenisher LORR per 135/36 roll of film. But this table 4-2 is for a particular minilab process.

Instead, I'd rather look at table 2-4 in document z131. This will more likely apply to you. It gives you replenishment volumes per roll of film for various types of film. Personally I use (used, I have to restart my colour development after nearly two years break) this table:

There is a group that contains Portra 160 and Gold 200 in the heading. I use that for slower films (ISO 100 & 200). 26.1mL per roll of 135/36. 36.8mL for a roll of 120 film.
The group below (last) I use for 400 and faster films. 33.1mL per roll of 135/36. 37.8 mL per roll of 120 film.

All volumes for LORR type developer. I have the normal Flexicolor developer (non LORR) for example. Table 2-4 has the number for this one as well.

 

[MingMingPhoto]

You can ignore the column on the right. Advantix was an APS film. The number in front/outside of the parenthesis is the volume (in mL) per 24 exposure roll of 35mm film. The number inside the parenthesis is the volume (in mL) per meter of film.

Since you are likely to develop 36 exposure rolls multiply the first number by 1.5. So 30mL of developer replenisher LORR per 135/36 roll of film. But this table 4-2 is for a particular minilab process.

Instead, I'd rather look at table 2-4 in document z131. This will more likely apply to you. It gives you replenishment volumes per roll of film for various types of film. Personally I use (used, I have to restart my colour development after nearly two years break) this table:

There is a group that contains Portra 160 and Gold 200 in the heading. I use that for slower films (ISO 100 & 200). 26.1mL per roll of 135/36. 36.8mL for a roll of 120 film.
The group below (last) I use for 400 and faster films. 33.1mL per roll of 135/36. 37.8 mL per roll of 120 film.

All volumes for LORR type developer. I have the normal Flexicolor developer (non LORR) for example. Table 2-4 has the number for this one as well.

Ah thank you so much I'm starting to understand a bit more... well tbh I don't understand still how to actually read the chart but you've given me a few answers and I guess I can try to wor kthe math out to figureo ut how you've gotten to these numbers.

As for mini lab stuff, I'm using a filmomat machine. It's a constant rotational processing machine. Like a jobo, but it fills with chemical only half way. Are you sure I should use the chart you're talking about?

Also would you mind re explaining the table to me? Like REALLY DUMB IT DOWN. I want to make sure I actually understand.

 

[MingMingPhoto]

Actually yeah I googled it: https://www.google.com/search?q=Rac...UxvlkKHbnsAPYQ_AUoAnoECAgQBA&biw=1697&bih=923

I don't have one of these. this is what I have:

 

[MingMingPhoto]

Something to know about the filmomat is it can process up to 4 rolls of film in 500 ml of chemistry. Will that play an roll in how much replenisher is needed?

 

[MingMingPhoto]

OHHHH OKAYYYY OKAY OKAY THANK YOUUUU

I can read the dam nthing now. sorry it took me a while. Okay soooo the numbers you added here:

"There is a group that contains Portra 160 and Gold 200 in the heading. I use that for slower films (ISO 100 & 200). 26.1mL per roll of 135/36. 36.8mL for a roll of 120 film.
The group below (last) I use for 400 and faster films. 33.1mL per roll of 135/36. 37.8 mL per roll of 120 film."

that is all info from rack and tank replenishment or from mini lab? or does it even matter?

 

[MingMingPhoto]

So I made this chart, changed the second column to 36mm

Is this correct? I know I'm bombarding you. Sorry

 

[MingMingPhoto]

If this is correct I'm confused. Because I heard fixer and final rinse last a LONG time and can be used plenty of times over and over. Is this not true?

 

[mshchem]

If this is correct I'm confused. Because I heard fixer and final rinse last a LONG time and can be used plenty of times over and over. Is this not true?

Bleach will last forever, I think I used something like 8mL of Bleach replenisher per 36. Fixer is cheap but oxidation is an issue.

 

[lantau]

OHHHH OKAYYYY OKAY OKAY THANK YOUUUU

I can read the dam nthing now. sorry it took me a while. Okay soooo the numbers you added here:

"There is a group that contains Portra 160 and Gold 200 in the heading. I use that for slower films (ISO 100 & 200). 26.1mL per roll of 135/36. 36.8mL for a roll of 120 film.
The group below (last) I use for 400 and faster films. 33.1mL per roll of 135/36. 37.8 mL per roll of 120 film."

that is all info from rack and tank replenishment or from mini lab? or does it even matter?

Yes, it is. It is the one I think is most appropriate for me using a manual tank.

But I've looked at the machine you are using. You mentioned it in another of your threads. Since it is not a continuous roller transport system like a minilab I assume that this table will still be the best match for your machine. Your chemicals get pumped in and pumped out. It is similar to pouring in and out or diping the film into an agitated deep tank. But that is only my opinion. I'm not exactly and experienced old hand. I simply studied all information I could find and made my decisions.

In any case, the table you mentioned in your first post looks like it has pretty low replenishment rates. My thinking is that this process works in a minilab, which has been designed and optimised by the manufacturer and will run a large amount of film all day long.

Your machine will have a lot more loss of chemicals (small amounts which will remain in the tank). And a lot more aeration (means oxidation) in the process of pumping and rotating. Hence I would choose the table for Rack-and-Tank processors, which I mentioned. There is no table for inversion- or rotation tanks because Kodak does not recommend to use replenishment for them.

EDIT: I made a mistake, it's been a while since I looked into Z131. There is section 3 for Sink-Line processing. That is the one I used when I last did C41 and (blind) replenishment. So it is table 3-2 that I recommend you use.

Section three also states that you shouldn't replenish when using a rotary processor. Probably because the chemicals get aerated so much. That is why I don't think your table 4-2 is a good a good one to use. It is up to you to try out and see. But as mschem says, Flexicolor bought from Unique Photo might still be cheap enough for single use. I.e. mix replenisher with starter to make enough tank solution for one use and then dump it.

 

[mshchem]

This site is amazing, everything is archived
https://125px.com/

You may find that single use for the developer and fixer is easier. I buy Fuji universal fixer in 5 gallon cubes, super cheap. Bleach is eternal, will last forever

To run a properly replenished system some will say you need control strips, densitometer, pH meter etc.

Look at Unique photo. They're the go to for chemistry. I use developer and fixer one shot in the Jobo machines. Kodak says to use everything one shot in Jobo machines but I replenish the bleach.

 

[lantau]

So I made this chart, changed the second column to 36mm

Is this correct? I know I'm bombarding you. Sorry

View attachment 262258

Yes, that is correct. But as I said in my previous post, I don't think this table really applies to your machine. It doesn't work like a minilab at all.

If this is correct I'm confused. Because I heard fixer and final rinse last a LONG time and can be used plenty of times over and over. Is this not true?

The replenishment rate for fixer in your table could work. C41 fixer is quite efficient, I believe. As a comparism: I started using a simple neutral fixer, which I can buy here in 5L units (Rollei brand) for b/w development. And based on a conservative 16 rolls 135/36 per litre of fixer I've started using a replenishment regime of 60mL per roll now. That is not C41, but b/w chemistry. As I just said, the C41 fixer is is possibly a bit better than the b/w fixer. On the other hand, colour film does require more fixing that b/w.

The table that I use (Rack-and-Tank) is showing 66mL Flexicolor fixer per roll of film. Again I recommend using this table to be on the safe side.

This site is amazing, everything is archived
https://125px.com/

You may find that single use for the developer and fixer is easier. I buy Fuji universal fixer in 5 gallon cubes, super cheap. Bleach is eternal, will last forever

To run a properly replenished system some will say you need control strips, densitometer, pH meter etc.

Look at Unique photo. They're the go to for chemistry. I use developer and fixer one shot in the Jobo machines. Kodak says to use everything one shot in Jobo machines but I replenish the bleach.

When I checked two years ago the prices at Unique photo were really excellent. If that is still the case and shipping to the OP in NY is cheap and quick it might be well worth to use the stuff one shot. I had a hard time getting my hands of the Kodak chemicals. Replenishment is necessary for me to use Flexicolor economically. Also the amount of waste to dispose of is much easier with replenishment. I also switched (actually in the middle of switching) to X-Tol replenished. In my positive darkroom I also replenish b/w developer and the same neutral b/w fixer using a Nova slot processor. And of course when I do RA4 with the same Nova I replenish. When it is working it is just great.

It's only C41 that is my problem child. But I think I might be able to process control strips, now. I'm about to discuss that in another thread.

 

[mshchem]

This is the developer replenisher I use. It's 14 dollars for the 3 little bottles to make 5 liters of developer replenisher. This along with starter and water makes a "working tank" which is what we call developer. This is called LU (low use) I think it's just packaged in smaller packages.
When mixed it makes around 6 liters of working solution, so with the Jobo that's around 55 rolls of film. If you are using a vertical tank I would not worry to much about replenishing until you get over 6 rolls per liter. If you download all of the Z-131 manual you will set what all (can be if you choose) is involved with running a commercial replenished system. Personally I would pick a workflow where you replenish the developer so you process 12-16 rolls, then toss the developer, and make fresh. Remember that you need to protect these solutions from air, full bottles are essential. I found a nitrogen tank regulator, trying to convince myself to lease a nitrogen tank. Crazy, but I have a gas burst setup as well.
I need to give away processing just to use the chemistry

 

[mshchem]

 

[MingMingPhoto]

Bleach will last forever, I think I used something like 8mL of Bleach replenisher per 36. Fixer is cheap but oxidation is an issue.

So to be clear you're using Flexicolor RA bleach and replenishing 8ml per roll of 135-36 right? You're also using a Jobo processor which fills the tank up completely with chemical, 1/4th of the way like the filmomat correct?

Yes, it is. It is the one I think is most appropriate for me using a manual tank.

But I've looked at the machine you are using. You mentioned it in another of your threads. Since it is not a continuous roller transport system like a minilab I assume that this table will still be the best match for your machine. Your chemicals get pumped in and pumped out. It is similar to pouring in and out or diping the film into an agitated deep tank. But that is only my opinion. I'm not exactly and experienced old hand. I simply studied all information I could find and made my decisions.

In any case, the table you mentioned in your first post looks like it has pretty low replenishment rates. My thinking is that this process works in a minilab, which has been designed and optimised by the manufacturer and will run a large amount of film all day long.

Your machine will have a lot more loss of chemicals (small amounts which will remain in the tank). And a lot more aeration (means oxidation) in the process of pumping and rotating. Hence I would choose the table for Rack-and-Tank processors, which I mentioned. There is no table for inversion- or rotation tanks because Kodak does not recommend to use replenishment for them.

EDIT: I made a mistake, it's been a while since I looked into Z131. There is section 3 for Sink-Line processing. That is the one I used when I last did C41 and (blind) replenishment. So it is table 3-2 that I recommend you use.

Section three also states that you shouldn't replenish when using a rotary processor. Probably because the chemicals get aerated so much. That is why I don't think your table 4-2 is a good a good one to use. It is up to you to try out and see. But as mschem says, Flexicolor bought from Unique Photo might still be cheap enough for single use. I.e. mix replenisher with starter to make enough tank solution for one use and then dump it.

Ok ok so I'll deff use that other table. But as for bleach I read that bleach likes to be oxidized; so much so that it should be be put in half filled containers once opened. If this is true, why would I not be allowed to replenish it? Also I hear fixer is stronger and less susceptible than developer to oxidation. If this is the case, AND also that you mentioned you used to blind replenish back in your day then it's safe to say that I can replenish right (from table 3-2)?

Are you basically saying I should just follow that chart to the T? Not to mention I do plan on buying a densitometer soon and also I won't buy test strips but I'm gonna make my own.. but is that a good idea? Because I would do that then just compare each additional test strip to the first one made... or do I really need to buy the official test strips?

I also do want to add that I'm processing film for other people, so I do expect to have many rolls to process in a given week and I do have 1L, .5L and, .25L storage bottles to fit all chemicals.

I just want to spell out everyhting that I have and have everything you guys advise to be spelled out to me too

I'm using:
Filmomat machine (500ml at a time; 1-4 rolls of 135-36, 1-4 rolls of 120, 1-6sheets of 4x5; tank 1/4th full of chemical, constant agitation) so I'll use table 3-2
I'm using Flexicolor LORR dev starter, Flexicolor LU developer and replenisher(a,b,c), Flexicolor RA Bleach replenisher NR, Flexicolor RA fixer and replenisher
I have pleanty of 1L, .5L and, .25L glass bottles to store chemicals in.

What would be my best move to make these chemicals last the longest and also to get a as much as I could from them?

To follow the chart yes, but since bleach oxidize and likes it shouldn't I be able to sue it a few times?

Also should I mix all chemcails and make working solutons or should I jsut make what i need of each chemical?

Sorry for all the questions, but if you have the time please helppppppp

 

[MingMingPhoto]

View attachment 262261

Also I don't understand what this machine is and hat it does. It prevents oxidaiton by replacing oxygen in the tank with nitrogen? If so would this work with the machine I'm using?

 

[mshchem]

Also I don't understand what this machine is and hat it does. It prevents oxidaiton by replacing oxygen in the tank with nitrogen? If so would this work with the machine I'm using?

This is the cutting edge of 1960's technology . This is a timer that actuates a solenoid valve. The valve is connected to a nitrogen tank with a two stage regulator when the valve is energized it let's a burst of gas, from the regulator, through the valve, into a hose that's connected to a gas distribution manifold, at the bottom of a 3 1/2 gallon stainless steel rack. So for color you have several 3 1/2 gallon tanks, fitted into a water jacket that is temperature regulated. For reel film you would lower a rack that would hold 30 reels into the developer tank, every 10 seconds (or whatever interval you set) there would be a vigorous burst of gas that was the agitation. These tanks would take 8x10, 5x7, 4x5 film hangers or print baskets for color paper. As you moved the rack from solution to solution, you would turn a valve that would substitute compressed air for nitrogen, to save money. The bleach air required the air to be damp, to prevent crystals from clogging the gas orifices. All this in open tanks in total darkness, older processes that took forever. Fun!

I'm just setting up a smaller one for fun. 2 gallon tank 7 8x10 hangers

 

[MingMingPhoto]

This is the cutting edge of 1960's technology . This is a timer that actuates a solenoid valve. The valve is connected to a nitrogen tank with a two stage regulator when the valve is energized it let's a burst of gas, from the regulator, through the valve, into a hose that's connected to a gas distribution manifold, at the bottom of a 3 1/2 gallon stainless steel rack. So for color you have several 3 1/2 gallon tanks, fitted into a water jacket that is temperature regulated. For reel film you would lower a rack that would hold 30 reels into the developer tank, every 10 seconds (or whatever interval you set) there would be a vigorous burst of gas that was the agitation. These tanks would take 8x10, 5x7, 4x5 film hangers or print baskets for color paper. As you moved the rack from solution to solution, you would turn a valve that would substitute compressed air for nitrogen, to save money. The bleach air required the air to be damp, to prevent crystals from clogging the gas orifices. All this in open tanks in total darkness, older processes that took forever. Fun!

I'm just setting up a smaller one for fun. 2 gallon tank 7 8x10 hangers

That's very cool, so basically a dip dunk tank they use at proper photo labs usually?

Do you think you'd be able to help me if I wanted to create my own dip dunk / rack and tank processor in a few years? (when I move to a new location and have the space and enough orders to make it worth the trouble)

 

[mshchem]

No this is something that individual commercial photographers used, I don't think anyone uses this anymore. Dip and dunk lines are huge, these are the "Gold Standard" nothing touches the film. Amazing to see.
Way back when amateur photos were all shot on black and white negative film, mostly contact printed, there was a company in Minneapolis, Minnesota called Pa-ko that made huge machines for processing. You can still find artifacts of these huge D&D machines, people saved the weighted film clips that were attached to the bottom of the film strips. These are always popping up on Ebay.
Pako is still in business but they have very little to do with film processing. Name has changed first to Pakon, now Pakor. Great customer service, a couple years ago I was able to get, custom order, canvas belts for a couple of Pako, fiber base print dryers that were made in the 60's.

 

[mshchem]

I just looked at your processor. If I had one of those. I would sit back and relax with a cup of coffee, to hell with replenisher. Looks like a lot of fun*

 

[MingMingPhoto]

No this is something that individual commercial photographers used, I don't think anyone uses this anymore. Dip and dunk lines are huge, these are the "Gold Standard" nothing touches the film. Amazing to see.
Way back when amateur photos were all shot on black and white negative film, mostly contact printed, there was a company in Minneapolis, Minnesota called Pa-ko that made huge machines for processing. You can still find artifacts of these huge D&D machines, people saved the weighted film clips that were attached to the bottom of the film strips. These are always popping up on Ebay.
Pako is still in business but they have very little to do with film processing. Name has changed first to Pakon, now Pakor. Great customer service, a couple years ago I was able to get, custom order, canvas belts for a couple of Pako, fiber base print dryers that were made in the 60's.

ah yeah, I've heard of Pakon. they make scanners and stuff. ok though, can yo ustill help me with any of these questions?

"
I'm using:
Filmomat machine (500ml at a time; 1-4 rolls of 135-36, 1-4 rolls of 120, 1-6sheets of 4x5; tank 1/4th full of chemical, constant agitation) so I'll use table 3-2
I'm using Flexicolor LORR dev starter, Flexicolor LU developer and replenisher(a,b,c), Flexicolor RA Bleach replenisher NR, Flexicolor RA fixer and replenisher
I have pleanty of 1L, .5L and, .25L glass bottles to store chemicals in.

What would be my best move to make these chemicals last the longest and also to get a as much as I could from them?

To follow the chart yes, but since bleach oxidize and likes it shouldn't I be able to sue it a few times?

Also should I mix all chemcails and make working solutons or should I jsut make what i need of each chemical?"


If anything can you let me know your personal ecperince with how many rolls yo uget out of each chemical? even without the replenishment but also with if you already know

 

[MingMingPhoto]

I just looked at your processor. If I had one of those. I would sit back and relax with a cup of coffee, to hell with replenisher. Looks like a lot of fun*

LMAOOOO
Yeah it's pretty damn dope :')

shout out lukas! for inventing it.

 

[lantau]

So to be clear you're using Flexicolor RA bleach and replenishing 8ml per roll of 135-36 right? You're also using a Jobo processor which fills the tank up completely with chemical, 1/4th of the way like the filmomat correct?





Ok ok so I'll deff use that other table. But as for bleach I read that bleach likes to be oxidized; so much so that it should be be put in half filled containers once opened. If this is true, why would I not be allowed to replenish it? Also I hear fixer is stronger and less susceptible than developer to oxidation. If this is the case, AND also that you mentioned you used to blind replenish back in your day then it's safe to say that I can replenish right (from table 3-2)?

Are you basically saying I should just follow that chart to the T? Not to mention I do plan on buying a densitometer soon and also I won't buy test strips but I'm gonna make my own.. but is that a good idea? Because I would do that then just compare each additional test strip to the first one made... or do I really need to buy the official test strips?

I also do want to add that I'm processing film for other people, so I do expect to have many rolls to process in a given week and I do have 1L, .5L and, .25L storage bottles to fit all chemicals.

I just want to spell out everyhting that I have and have everything you guys advise to be spelled out to me too

I'm using:
Filmomat machine (500ml at a time; 1-4 rolls of 135-36, 1-4 rolls of 120, 1-6sheets of 4x5; tank 1/4th full of chemical, constant agitation) so I'll use table 3-2
I'm using Flexicolor LORR dev starter, Flexicolor LU developer and replenisher(a,b,c), Flexicolor RA Bleach replenisher NR, Flexicolor RA fixer and replenisher
I have pleanty of 1L, .5L and, .25L glass bottles to store chemicals in.

What would be my best move to make these chemicals last the longest and also to get a as much as I could from them?

To follow the chart yes, but since bleach oxidize and likes it shouldn't I be able to sue it a few times?

Also should I mix all chemcails and make working solutons or should I jsut make what i need of each chemical?

Sorry for all the questions, but if you have the time please helppppppp

mschem has a few decades more of experience than I. I've been doing this only since 2016. Since January 2019 I didn't do C41. I had a problem then with two films being very grainy. I developed a roll of Portra 400 and one Fuji Natura 1600 together in 500mL of Flexicolor dev. I don't know if the developer was at fault or if it is a bad idea to develop different types of film together in a small tank.

So I procrastinated because I don't have the equipment to monitor my solution. Now I just bought a factory new Heiland b/w densitometer and I'm wondering if I can use the colour filters from an ancient 1950s Kodak densitometer (€1 on ebay). There is also a shop that sells Fuji control strips. Kodak strips, colour photochemistry, colour photopaper (even rolls) cannot be bought by mere mortals here. I guess they have no need to do business with everyone.

So that's my backstory. Just so that you know, there are people with much more knowledge here. But they might be busy enjoying the holidays!

Please also note that I edited my previous post. You should use the table in Chapter 3 (table 3-2). I mistakenly look at chapter 2, but IMHO chapter 3 is closer to our type of equipment. Your device is quite nice, but at heart it is rotation development. As you mentioned, the tank is half full. So as the film spiral rotates in the liquid it carries air into it. That is why Kodak is saying you must not replenish, because it is too oxidised. At least that is how I understand that.

Now, your device is a bit special. The tank is standing still in operation and it seems that there is tubing going in for pumping liquids in and out. Perhaps it is possible to rig something to purge the tank with nitrogen while operating. It might not be worth the trouble, though. It all depends on the economy of replenishment vs. single use. I.e. make new solution from replenisher and starter, process an appropriate number of rolls and then discard, repeat.

There is a user here, Adrian, I think. He seems to operate a commercial service using a Jobo. I read he is not replenishing but using fresh developer for each tank with four rolls in it. I guess it is commercially feasible.

For developer I'm a bit scared to replenish blind, even has a hobby user. I managed to do RA4 prints from my films, so it generally worked. But I can't vouch for the quality. Judging colour is not that easy. I will feel better when I can see if I'm drifting off too much and in which direction. Also in future I will use a Patterson tank. It is like my Jobo tank, but instead of inversion I can use a little stick (that comes with the tank) to rotate the inside back and forth. The spiral will rotate completely immersed in developer and will not draw in (much) air. Also the tank will be stationary in the water bath all the time, which will be better for keeping temp.

For bleach I'm using Fuji minilab chemistry, which I got cheap on ebay. I guess someone had old stock around and bleach doesn't really go bad on its own. I have an aquarium air pump with sinter to bubble air through for reoxygenation before use. And since I bought the temperature control device from Cinestill (a sous vide cooking device really) I'm using the stirrer to draw air in while heating it up. I use mine for a while and then discard and mix new, because I don't have the right dilution and rate for replenishment.

For Flexicolor I'd replenish as in table 3-2 and bubble enough air through in between runs. A lot easier than keeping developer alive.

For fixer just follow the replenishment rate in table 3-2. Fixer can oxidise slowly, but with enough turnover and hence replenishment I see no problem. C41 fixer is neutral and not as prone to crashing out sulfur when unused for a long time. That would be a nightmare in your machine. So if you ever offer b/w services as well, I'd still use a neutral fixer, perhaps even the Flexicolor one. Just in case. Z131 also describes how to test for bleach and fix quality using test strips.

So in a nutshell: For bleach and fix following the table blindly might just work fine. I'd keep an eye on bleach and fix quality. That can be done with test strips and a colour densitometer, at least until you know if it is working stable. For developer in a commercial environment I wouldn't use replenishment without having a system to monitor. Follow the table but test and correct when needed.