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Delta 3200 in D-76?

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Delta 3200 is a film I love too, and if I had more money to spend on photography, would use it a lot more.

I have found that if you shoot in normal daylight with it, it is very low contrast, and needs to be developed for quite a bit longer than seems logical at times. I've used Xtol, DD-X, Rodinal, and HC-110. All produce wonderful results, but you have to dial in the development time.

When you shoot at night, it's as though the film's low contrast comes into its own, and scenes such as the one posted by Ratty Mouse is like hand in glove for this film without doing much of anything to the normal times posted by Ilford.

You have to consider the conditions in which you shoot, and also the final output, in order to determine how the film must be exposed and processed. This is true with all films and developers, but maybe especially so with Delta 3200 because it's so different to all other films out there.

D76 will work just fine. I'd probably recommend stock solution or 1+1 so that you don't end up with ridiculously long developing times.
Although if you shoot in very high contrast lighting, and you want shadow detail to be more prominent, you could dilute the developer more, like 1+3, and use the resulting very long developing time to your advantage. Just agitate a bit less, say every 2 minutes or so, and let those shadows come up.
 
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I would say your best bet is DD-X but D-76 will work just more grain.

Either way be sure to develop an additional stop longer than recommended (I would recommend) and also, I've discovered that if you're shooting only 1600 or 3200, using HP5+ would give finer grained results and really great shadow detail.

HP5+ @3200 in DD-X for 20 minutes is MAGIC! :smile:
 
I would say your best bet is DD-X but D-76 will work just more grain.

Either way be sure to develop an additional stop longer than recommended (I would recommend) and also, I've discovered that if you're shooting only 1600 or 3200, using HP5+ would give finer grained results and really great shadow detail.

HP5+ @3200 in DD-X for 20 minutes is MAGIC! :smile:

Talk is cheap. Let's see some examples!! :smile:
 
I love Delta 3200 when I'm out with a Nikon tucked under my parka on a rainy day. It has its own special look. You can use just about any
ordinary developer successfully, including 76. But I prefer PMK pyro, with the film rated at 800.
 
I would say your best bet is DD-X but D-76 will work just more grain.

Either way be sure to develop an additional stop longer than recommended (I would recommend) and also, I've discovered that if you're shooting only 1600 or 3200, using HP5+ would give finer grained results and really great shadow detail.

HP5+ @3200 in DD-X for 20 minutes is MAGIC! :smile:

If you don't like grain you could try Delta 400 at 1600.
 
Talk is cheap. Let's see some examples!! :smile:

You've seen them on the HP5+ at 3200 thread ... But here... You know I back my stuff up.

Dim diner light

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1389828849.603610.jpg

Dark corner with bright lantern

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1389828870.270592.jpg

Night exposure hand held

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1389828893.422578.jpg

Censored - sunset light

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1389829023.167013.jpg
 
OK, here are my examples. Delta 3200, shot at ISO 1600, developed in D-76 stock solution for 9.5 minutes.

11995677595_cf9fe2feb2_b.jpg


11995991754_18deff4d66_b.jpg
 
Beat me to the question. :laugh:

I'd add "were the negatives easy to use?"

I have almost no experience, so cannot give a very valid opinion. These were rolls 4 and 5 that I have developed. This is my baseline to use to compare when I get a bottle of DDX to try.

I'm not sure what your second question means. I have not printed them yet in case that is what you are referring to.
 
Good to have the baseline.

Both questions are about why you might adjust the camera exposure or film development.

If it is working there's no reason to adjust.
 
If it is working there's no reason to adjust.

Exactly. If these are easy for you to scan, then just keep doing what you're doing and focus on making interesting photographs.

Going to DD-X you will find that you get a bit more shadow detail, but since you're shooting your film at 1600 I doubt you will notice much difference. It will be very minor.
 
Part of the beauty of 3200 is the grain. Just comes with the territory of a high-speed film. I'd rather have distinct grain than just enough
grain to be obnoxious.
 
I was shocked the first time I printed a 35mm Tri-X negative and saw how different the grain appeared than in the scan. Essentially it appeared smaller and much less obvious. I suspect a similar thing would happen when printing these "superpeed" films. Now I'm eager to give it a try.
 
I was shocked the first time I printed a 35mm Tri-X negative and saw how different the grain appeared than in the scan. Essentially it appeared smaller and much less obvious. I suspect a similar thing would happen when printing these "superpeed" films. Now I'm eager to give it a try.

Delta 3200 will surprise you. What's amazing about it is its resolution, which is actually better than Tri-X. I have a series of photographs from cities where I shot 35mm Delta 3200, processed in Rodinal 1+25, and I print those 16x20 and love the results. Like Drew, I really love that strong grain that is clearly obvious and clear.
 
Now blow 35mm up to 8x10 or larger, or 120 to 16x20, and see what you get. I'm not suggesting it won't look nice; but at that point, I'd rather see grain than mushy edges. A web posting doesn't really convey the true effect, thought that is admittedly the best any of us can do on any
web forum per se.
 
The beautifully random textured grain of D3200P is one of the main reasons *to* shoot it. Great film.
 
If you don't like grain you could try Delta 400 at 1600.

If you don't like grain or shadow detail, you could try Delta 400 at 1600.
 
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