This is the original. Buy a little balance 5 or 6 ingredients. D-52 is warmtone print developer, D-72 neutral , D-76 film developer.I didn't see where prints were sent to Kodak. There doesn't seem to be a problem with how the bad batches work so it must be an esthetic issue, or a solution looking for a problem. In that case
Kodak D-72 Print Developer
Metric Spoons and Ounces
Water (125 deg. F) 500 ml.
Metol (or "Elon") 3 gm.
Sodium sulfite, anhydrous 45 gm.
Hydroquinone 12 gm.
Sodium carbonate, monohydrated 80 gm.
Potassium bromide, anhydrous 2 gm
Cold water to make 1 liter
Dilute 1 part D-72 to 2 parts water for use. This formula makes a print developer similar (if not indistinguishable) to Dektol.
http://www.afterness.com/kod_d72.html
I bought some of the cooltone Ilford, it's dyed, not my preference.Check to make sure that your glossy paper isn't the cooltone paper, and the pearl isn't the warm tone paper.
As I understand it, there may also be a slight difference in tone between the former MGIV and the very recently introduced MG (V).
Finally, if your viewing light is warm, it may be the case that a pearl paper will look slightly warmer than the more reflective glossy.
Check to make sure that your glossy paper isn't the cooltone paper, and the pearl isn't the warm tone paper.
As I understand it, there may also be a slight difference in tone between the former MGIV and the very recently introduced MG (V).
Finally, if your viewing light is warm, it may be the case that a pearl paper will look slightly warmer than the more reflective glossy.
.......That is for me a NO GO and a complete failure on the side of Alaris. I have decided to quit using their products at all... but: what are the alternatives?
thanks!
I second the suggestion of mixing your own. I'm doing that for years now and never had a failure. Don't expect saving any money But you will get consistent quality of your developer I am always a fresh batch when you need it.hi Bruce
don't forget sometimes these days international shipments take way-longer than expected. I hate to make this suggestion because it has nothing to do with your question and getting reimbursed (via chemistry) for your bad batch, but you might look into buying a digital scale from balances.com or eBay or amazon and raw chemicals from someplace ( like artcraft, or formulary or bostick and Sullivan, or amazon ) and mix your own from scratch. it really doesn't take too long to weigh out and the ingredients are readily available ( potassium bromide, sodium sulfite, metol hydroquinone, washing soda and ... ) , and that way you know you aren't getting a bad batch... if you add glycin into your recipe ( like with ansco 125 or 130 ) you will have a developer that lasts a very very long time. I had ansco 130 last over a year in a partially filled 1gallon bottle of stock solution. Glycin costs a little bit but in the end its like magic.
good luck with your situation!
John
I second the suggestion of mixing your own. I'm doing that for years now and never had a failure. Don't expect saving any money But you will get consistent quality of your developer I am always a fresh batch when you need it.
[Got out the ceremonial can-opener and emergency can.
The can opener is Beautiful! I have emergency cans as well. I panicked when Ilford went into receivership 15 years ago, I bought 10 or 12 5L packs of Bromophen. I used the last one a couple years ago, perfect. I panicked again when Tetenal got in trouble, I bought XTOL, Kodak Rapid fixer, and more BromophenView attachment 281947
Three bags brown. Was about to give up. Got out the ceremonial can-opener and emergency can.
Then I found it! One bag of Dektol that is not brown!
My others had all been oxidized. Not by the Kodak supplier issue but by oxygen getting into the packaging. Two by mice, one by old age and bad luck. Since I found the brown Dektol turns my prints cream-colored, I am not willing to use it. Besides, with it really being oxidized I think it’s really ruined (as opposed to a harmless manufacturing impurity).
Anyway the can lives another day to be on hand for another emergency.
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