Darkroom Luxuries

[Donald Qualls]

I've got to ask, how much none visible residue light does that tv cast out after being on awhile and do you load your tanks/holders in front of it?

That would have been a big issue with older phosphor-CRT TVs, but with modern LCD and OLED screens, when they're off, they're off. The power status light is probably the only issue, and a small piece of gaffer tape will fix that.

 

[Michael Firstlight]

Yes, in my darkroom the power status lights from the TV, the satellite tuner box, the WiFi mesh node, and the Bluetooth audio bridge (smartphone link to receiver) are all problems that require gaffer tape to deal with. My TV is an LCD, but I can still see some faint ghosting on the screen for a short while after its turned off - even when I leave the room and return (to make sure it's not just in my head). With LCD there should be nothing after turning it off but I'll test anyway just to be 100% sure.

Mke

 

[NB23]

Darkroom, that magical place!
I’d say the single most important luxury is to have running water.

 

[NB23]

120 backing paper is your best friend. It is 100% lightproof, so I cut pieces of it and tape it over whatever light source.

Yes, in my darkroom the power status lights from the TV, the satellite tuner box, the WiFi mesh node, and the Bluetooth audio bridge (smartphone link to receiver) are all problems that require gaffer tape to deal with. My TV is an LCD, but I can still see some faint ghosting on the screen for a short while after its turned off - even when I leave the room and return (to make sure it's not just in my head). With LCD there should be nothing after turning it off but I'll test anyway just to be 100% sure.

Mke

 

[Donald Qualls]

My TV is an LCD, but I can still see some faint ghosting on the screen for a short while after its turned off - even when I leave the room and return (to make sure it's not just in my head).

Some older LCD screens have a fluorescent backlight; that will afterglow just like fluorescent ceiling lights and such. More modern ones have LED backlights and shut off immediately, or they have LED's for each pixel that do the same.

 

[Fujicaman1957]

The "pool Noodles" I slit and put over the edge of the darkroom sink. Makes leaning over the sink painfree.

 

[Michael Firstlight]

120 backing paper is your best friend. It is 100% lightproof, so I cut pieces of it and tape it over whatever light source.

Great idea! Thanks!

 

[dkonigs]

120 backing paper is your best friend. It is 100% lightproof, so I cut pieces of it and tape it over whatever light source.

For this purpose I've actually used those light-proof black plastic bags the photo supplier companies sell, usually combined with black gaffer tape. (That roll of black gaffer tape I bought a while back has turned out to be one of my best darkroom accessories.)

Of course backing paper is absolutely cheaper, though you'd probably have to overlay several strips to get enough width for things I've used it for. Also, its possible moisture could be a concern over time.

 

[eddie]

I save the black plastic bags paper comes in to use for some of these issues. I also use rubylith when I want to still see whatever is lit. On/off switches, digital clock/radio. I also use it on a 13" TV I'll set up during long darkroom sessions.
Michael- Your TV is a lot nicer than mine. Not bad for a CHS grad...

 

[eli griggs]

The "pool Noodles" I slit and put over the edge of the darkroom sink. Makes leaning over the sink painfree.

For that matter, adding a pipe rail/foot rest, at the typical hight and position of old fashioned standing brass bar rails, will be good for your back and comfort, as well.

Being able to stand in comfort for hours as you 'belly up' to a darkroom sink will certainly make the tasks of a long developing or printing session more 'doable' and, writing this, I have to wonder why I haven't done this myself, because it was in my original intent when I built the stand for my ABS sink, which already has rounded edges?

Pool noodles also can be stappled to door edges and around windows for light and wind proofing as well, especially when you need to pass an extension cord through a door opening or window.

This is how I kept an indoor extension cable providing power to my youngest's truck engine heater one very cold winter, no all that long ago, and light out of a carpeted hall/darkroom doorway, too.

 

[DF]

Small cooler tucked away in the corner for the beer

 

[tih]

With LCD there should be nothing after turning it off but I'll test anyway just to be 100% sure.

Not necessarily. There is a light source in there, and it may create some afterglow. In a modern TV, I guess LEDs are used, and they tend to contain phosphorescent material that will keep emitting a bit of light for a while after they're turned off. (One way to make white LEDs is to use UV LEDs, and have a suitable phosphor layer in front of the emitting element.)

 

[tih]

The "pool Noodles" I slit and put over the edge of the darkroom sink. Makes leaning over the sink painfree.

I do that, too - but I get the things pre-slit: I buy isolation material that's meant for use on water pipes. It comes in various diameters, is hollow, and is slit to let you slip it onto the pipe. You can see them in this picture of my darkroom - I've got them on the cold water pipes to avoid condensation and dripping, and then I put a larger size on the edge of the sink.

 

[Fraunhofer]

A anti-fatigue mat in front of the sink, make standing much more comfortable (and I also use pool noodles for the edge of the sink).

Also, I have a DriDek tiles lining my sink.

 

[Michael Firstlight]

Not necessarily. There is a light source in there, and it may create some afterglow. In a modern TV, I guess LEDs are used, and they tend to contain phosphorescent material that will keep emitting a bit of light for a while after they're turned off. (One way to make white LEDs is to use UV LEDs, and have a suitable phosphor layer in front of the emitting element.)

I think you are correct. I can see the phosphorous afterwards for a while - so I'll need to measure how long it lingers as it does eventually go away completely and just not use it until that time has expired or put a drape cloth over it.

Mike

 

[Donald Qualls]

I think you are correct. I can see the phosphorous afterwards for a while - so I'll need to measure how long it lingers as it does eventually go away completely and just not use it until that time has expired or put a drape cloth over it.

I've seen fluorescent light tubes and CRT screens continue to glow for twenty minutes or more. Probably best bet for a screen to go in the darkroom is either don't run the screen before handling film, or use a drape cloth as noted (or if you're really into convenience, put blackout drapes on a drapery track; then it won't matter if you watch the screen right up until you turn out the lights to load your film).

 

[radiant]

Bar stool next to enlarger (and dev tray near enlarger).

 

[Michael Firstlight]

I've seen fluorescent light tubes and CRT screens continue to glow for twenty minutes or more. Probably best bet for a screen to go in the darkroom is either don't run the screen before handling film, or use a drape cloth as noted (or if you're really into convenience, put blackout drapes on a drapery track; then it won't matter if you watch the screen right up until you turn out the lights to load your film).

Good advice. Waiting 20 min or so is likely the best option - not much of an inconvenience but safe.

Mike

 

[Sirius Glass]

I've seen fluorescent light tubes and CRT screens continue to glow for twenty minutes or more. Probably best bet for a screen to go in the darkroom is either don't run the screen before handling film, or use a drape cloth as noted (or if you're really into convenience, put blackout drapes on a drapery track; then it won't matter if you watch the screen right up until you turn out the lights to load your film).

Good advice. Waiting 20 min or so is likely the best option - not much of an inconvenience but safe.

Mike

How about taking the television or computer out of the darkroom? That is the obvious solution.

 

[Fujicaman1957]

Pipe insulation was $ 3.99 for 3 pieces-the pool noodles were on sale for 50 cents each. And orange show up better under safelights than black.

 

[Michael Firstlight]

How about taking the television or computer out of the darkroom? That is the obvious solution.

Because that is completely unnecessary. My darkroom is a very comfortable dual darkroom/man cave and the issue is very easy and simple to mitigate.

Mike

 

[BMbikerider]

No wife close at hand to complain I am taking up the spare bedroom! No seriously it has to be my NOVA processor. and Peak focus finder

 

[guillermo alvarez]

RH Designs Analyzer Pro.

+1!!
I just love this thing! I can't imagine going back to enlarging without it.

 

[dkonigs]

+1!!
I just love this thing! I can't imagine going back to enlarging without it.

And yet there are plenty of places where you get shouted down for daring to suggest an analytical approach to darkroom work. I'm just grateful this thread isn't one of them.
I got one of these myself when setting up my darkroom last year, and its helped my workflow dramatically. I'm far more willing to try different contrast grades, and only really bother with test strips and experimentation to improve the result (not to get the first decent "straight print".)

 

[Sirius Glass]

The single most expensive thing in a darkroom is having the space for it.