That would have been a big issue with older phosphor-CRT TVs, but with modern LCD and OLED screens, when they're off, they're off. The power status light is probably the only issue, and a small piece of gaffer tape will fix that.
I've got to ask, how much none visible residue light does that tv cast out after being on awhile and do you load your tanks/holders in front of it?
Yes, in my darkroom the power status lights from the TV, the satellite tuner box, the WiFi mesh node, and the Bluetooth audio bridge (smartphone link to receiver) are all problems that require gaffer tape to deal with. My TV is an LCD, but I can still see some faint ghosting on the screen for a short while after its turned off - even when I leave the room and return (to make sure it's not just in my head). With LCD there should be nothing after turning it off but I'll test anyway just to be 100% sure.
Mke
My TV is an LCD, but I can still see some faint ghosting on the screen for a short while after its turned off - even when I leave the room and return (to make sure it's not just in my head).
120 backing paper is your best friend. It is 100% lightproof, so I cut pieces of it and tape it over whatever light source.
For this purpose I've actually used those light-proof black plastic bags the photo supplier companies sell, usually combined with black gaffer tape. (That roll of black gaffer tape I bought a while back has turned out to be one of my best darkroom accessories.)120 backing paper is your best friend. It is 100% lightproof, so I cut pieces of it and tape it over whatever light source.
The "pool Noodles" I slit and put over the edge of the darkroom sink. Makes leaning over the sink painfree.
With LCD there should be nothing after turning it off but I'll test anyway just to be 100% sure.
The "pool Noodles" I slit and put over the edge of the darkroom sink. Makes leaning over the sink painfree.
Not necessarily. There is a light source in there, and it may create some afterglow. In a modern TV, I guess LEDs are used, and they tend to contain phosphorescent material that will keep emitting a bit of light for a while after they're turned off. (One way to make white LEDs is to use UV LEDs, and have a suitable phosphor layer in front of the emitting element.)
I think you are correct. I can see the phosphorous afterwards for a while - so I'll need to measure how long it lingers as it does eventually go away completely and just not use it until that time has expired or put a drape cloth over it.
I've seen fluorescent light tubes and CRT screens continue to glow for twenty minutes or more. Probably best bet for a screen to go in the darkroom is either don't run the screen before handling film, or use a drape cloth as noted (or if you're really into convenience, put blackout drapes on a drapery track; then it won't matter if you watch the screen right up until you turn out the lights to load your film).
I've seen fluorescent light tubes and CRT screens continue to glow for twenty minutes or more. Probably best bet for a screen to go in the darkroom is either don't run the screen before handling film, or use a drape cloth as noted (or if you're really into convenience, put blackout drapes on a drapery track; then it won't matter if you watch the screen right up until you turn out the lights to load your film).
Good advice. Waiting 20 min or so is likely the best option - not much of an inconvenience but safe.
Mike
How about taking the television or computer out of the darkroom? That is the obvious solution.
+1!!RH Designs Analyzer Pro.
And yet there are plenty of places where you get shouted down for daring to suggest an analytical approach to darkroom work. I'm just grateful this thread isn't one of them.+1!!
I just love this thing! I can't imagine going back to enlarging without it.
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