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Troy Hamon

Troy Hamon

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Frank, thank you for the offer, but I think I'll have it with a bit more weatherstripping at this point. The addition of a little blackout tape has done wonders and there isn't much left to worry about as far as light leaks. I didn't get much done on the plumbing or electrical though...but since the remaining things to do in those areas is luxury, it doesn't much matter if I do it tomorrow or next week...

I also didn't get my shelves made. Maybe next weekend. I really need to do that so I can move out all construction stuff and get to the important work of getting myself organized. Hasn't happened once in my life, but it seems like I ought to try...
 
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Troy Hamon

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A belated update...which is fitting since progress is generally a bit late as well...

I used scrap OSB to make the rather large shelves beneath the dry side counters a few weeks back. Since the OSB is a bit rough and it would wear on the paint pretty hard when stuff was slid in and out, I waffled around then decided to put down my last linoleum scraps to take the scuffing. This is all well and good...but I really was down to just scraps of thin strips. I finally talked myself into the project, got it laid down, and then started the process of painting between all the strips quite some time ago (it's all blurred together now...not sure exactly when I did this...).

In the middle of all this, I realized that I needed to make a temporary cover for the 'sinkhole' that will eventually be a lightbox. My first attempt was ancient plywood that had weathered to pieces, and wasn't very good. I found a scrap of slightly-weathered finish-grade plywood and fit it to the hole with guides underneath to hold it in place...then forgot to paint it while I was painting the shelves. I finally finished painting it today and put it in place. So my work surface, while not completely finished, is completely functional.

So what did I do? I sanded down the painted surface on the wet side and put another coat of paint on! Probably one more tomorrow just for fun and because I'd hate to start working any earlier than I have to out there... No really, I just keep thinking another coat would be good. And the pressboard core of the door that has been turned into my wet surface was pretty rough after painting, so I'm smoothing out the surfaces that I am in contact with.

I also started working on exterior electrical fittings a while back. The porch light is installed, but the exterior outlet led to some problems because after all the wires were hooked up, I broke off one of the screws that holds the outlet into the box...broke it off in the fitting in the box...couldn't figure out how to fix it, asked a friend of mine, and he said get another box. Phooey! But I did finally get around to fixing that. I have a line that will go to another exterior fitting that needs to be put in still. Hopefully soon.

Today I installed the exterior duct fittings so wind won't blow in as freely and critters can't set up nests in the ductwork. I hope I didn't trap anybody up there, but I couldn't scare anything out...I guess I'll find out soon...I've never noticed any activity so I'll hope it is good.

I bought omnidirectional red LED lights from superbrightleds.com, found on another thread here, and they are great. I'll do a safelight test as soon as I get set up, but they seem like just the thing so far. I love LEDs, I want some bright enough for home lighting...I hope they come up with some soon that work for that.

After filling my water tank, I knew I wanted to bring a water line in from the outside world without needing to come in through the door with a hose. I fit a spigot on the outside wall underneath the floor, brought the pipe up through the floor, and put on another spigot. I then put a Y on that spigot, one side of which is attached to a hose that runs up into the tank for filling. The other side of the Y goes straight to the other tap on the faucet, so I can in theory run pressure from the house if I ever want out of the one tap, with gravity from the tank out of the other. Pretty cool.

My only connection to the ground is my drain. I wasn't really thinking of that...but it heaved pretty good on me. Pushed up an inch or so. I got it back into place today, but that may be a problem that needs addressed in a more comprehensive way in the future. We'll see.

I think that's most of the progress. I can tell you that I am tantalizingly close now. The remaining tasks...
Inside:
1. Sand and paint the final coat on the wet side.
2. Cut insulation pieces to cover breaker box (which is uninsulated due to taking up the entire stud space) and window (for an easy light-tight fitting).

Outside:
1. Install one more exterior electrical outlet.
2. Install the second grounding rod for good measure.
3. Insulate the floor. I've been back and forth on this, but since I don't intend to heat the place all winter, I'd rather have less space to heat, so the floor it is.
4. Build skirting...
 
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Troy Hamon

Troy Hamon

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I'm printing tonight!

Summer is a ridiculously busy time for me...but I finished the exterior electrical outlets, the interior painting, enough light-proofing to be functional, and have organized sufficiently to be fully operational! The studio/gallery end (open wall at the end where framed images will be hung and a backdrop and lights can be arranged) is a pile of construction material and a few tools, but still...major progress.

I've developed film out there three times now. Each time is another reminder that I'm not ready to print...except today I got things organized and by golly I'm even ready for that. I keep finding more things to do though. Today, it was hanging my timers on the walls to help unclutter the countertops. Furthermore, I noticed that the ABS ducting that runs along behind the wet bench for exhaust ventilation is a nice fit for developing tanks...

Still need to do skirting, insulate the floor, and put in my second grounding rod. I'm considering adding a lean-to to each end of the structure to make it a darkroom/garden shed all in one, and will need to decide before I know how I'm going to do the skirting. But right now, I'm working inside.

When I get my hands on a d****** camera I'll post a couple of interior shots in the darkroom portraits thread...
 

MurrayMinchin

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HEE-HEEE-HEEEEEEEEEEE! :smile:

Murray
 
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Troy Hamon

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Well...anybody that has been wondering how to visualize the things I've been describing here over the past year can mosey over to the darkroom portraits thread for the first visual update...assuming I can get the images uploaded...
 
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Troy Hamon

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It occurred to me that the most important recent development hasn't been explained...the copystand. Now nothing is new about the copy stand, but as can be seen in the (there was a url link here which no longer exists) thread, there are little purple chairs in front of it. There is a purple tote next to it which doesn't show up in the pictures. The copystand, chairs, and tote represent the place for the little people. My kids come out and set up all sorts of dragons and castles on the copystand and have wars, rescue princesses, and all sorts of entertaining things. They have their very own red LED safelight on the copystand where the camera goes for real work. They can spend a long time out there during a printing session and all is well. Which is fun for me. We took a whole set of toys out there that they only get to play with in the darkroom, so they look forward to a chance to play with them and so far it hasn't worn off...
 
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Troy Hamon

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Fall is nearly upon us...it has been a year since the grand project started in earnest and construction is largely over, as reported above. But just yesterday I started staining the exterior to provide some protection for the wood. I should have done it sooner, but kept putting it off while I started developing film and prints... Now I realize I'd better get going on the final exterior projects or else I will have some major problems with weather. As in freezing weather.

I got two exterior walls stained yesterday and will try to get the other two done today. Then, still need to insulate the floor. After that, skirting is the final piece of the current puzzle. I'd also like to put a lean-to on either end for yard equipment storage, but that is a lower priority and may happen next summer...
 
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Troy Hamon

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Seeing fall bounding past outside the window...certainly time to finish insulation projects...so I'm starting on the floor. So far I have two sheets of 4x8 foam screwed onto the bottom of the floor. It was a lot easier to write that than accomplish it.

The stuff is...foam. Meaning, pretty soft...doesn't take insults well...so how do you attach it to the floor? My intention was to use long screws with big plastic washers to spread the pressure from the screw heads. The local store doesn't have the washers...and their shipment is late arriving. To further complicate matters, they are getting the kind that are paired with nails...meaning I'd have to hammer.

Well, I've been down under the darkroom, and there isn't much room there. Almost none, actually. It feels as if I might get stuck if I try to roll over. I need the plastic washers, but not the nails, as there is no way I'm swinging a hammer in that tiny space. So, no washers, none coming at present. Instead, I went out and found some thin pieces of cast-off wood from the construction project. I propped the sheet of insulation in place and then used the wood as a long strip washer, and put the screws through the wood into the floor joists.

It worked fine, eventually, but the wood is a lot thicker than the washers, and the screws I had intended to use were just the right length before. So now, they are a bit short unless I countersink, so I've had to do that in some of the thicker pieces of wood. Along the edges of the big floor beams, I've just put retainers that don't go through the foam.

Hopefully I'll learn from these experiences and the rest of the project will go faster. One thing I've learned...it is a lot better to insulate under the floor before you put the floor boards on. When you have easy, standing-up work access to the area in question. Oh well, got to get the insulation done, and flat on my back is how it is going to happen at this point. After I get all the insulation on sometime this month, I'm going to seal the cracks with spray foam. Then...skirting? Maybe. Maybe that can wait too...
 
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Troy Hamon

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Hi Gary,

Since I'm learning by Braille, and the occasional input from somebody knowledgeable...no, I hadn't thought about construciton adhesive. Haven't ever heard of it, to be honest. Somebody had mentioned using the insulating foam that comes in the spray-paint-sized cans for that purpose, but I had elected to go with that to fill cracks afterward because I can't envision working with the foam sheet while it has that stuff on it in such a confined space. Maybe it wouldn't be as bad as I fear. I can get some before I'll have a chance to work on it again anyway.

Is construction adhesive lots different than the sprayfoam? Is it common enough that I could just ask at the hardware store and they'd know what I was talking about?
 

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Troy -

Construction adhesive is a paste-like material that is packaged in a tube like caulking compount. It is used in addition (or instead of) traditional fasteners in construction. Around here, for example, construction adhesive is commonly used in addition to nails in installing floor underlayment because it literally glues the underlayment to joists, thereby eliminating squeaking.

I used construction adhesive iextensively in building my darkroom. My facility is in the basement, and the most important use was to fasten the sole plates to the cement floor - I didn't want to take the risk that a masonry nail into the floor might penetrate through the concrete and create an opening that would later present a problem with water leakage.

Frankly, construction adhesive sounds like an ideal way to install underfloor insulating foam.
 

Steve Smith

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Frankly, construction adhesive sounds like an ideal way to install underfloor insulating foam.



In the UK we have a construction adhesive called Gripfill. If you have that too, that is the one to use. It is used to stick practically everything to everything else. Ideal for sticking your skirting boards on with.

Steve.
 

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Troy -

Construction adhesive is a paste-like material that is packaged in a tube like caulking compount. It is used in addition (or instead of) traditional fasteners in construction. Around here, for example, construction adhesive is commonly used in addition to nails in installing floor underlayment because it literally glues the underlayment to joists, thereby eliminating squeaking.

I used construction adhesive iextensively in building my darkroom. My facility is in the basement, and the most important use was to fasten the sole plates to the cement floor - I didn't want to take the risk that a masonry nail into the floor might penetrate through the concrete and create an opening that would later present a problem with water leakage.

Frankly, construction adhesive sounds like an ideal way to install underfloor insulating foam.


Sole plates and firring strips are exactly what I want to use construction adhesive for. What brand did you use?
 

Monophoto

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Sole plates and firring strips are exactly what I want to use construction adhesive for. What brand did you use?

Don't remember - but it was the least expensive stuff that had at either Home Despot or Lowes.
 
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Troy Hamon

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Thanks for the responses. I have another question...will this stuff hold by itself since the foam is just attached across the bottom of the floor joists, or do I need supplemental attachments? Actually, I have two questions...will it hold through -40 temps? A lot of stuff turns sort of brittle and doesn't do so well when it gets that cold.

Thanks, everyone.
 

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Hmm, that may be a question to send to the manufacturer of that product, though construction people in your area may well know the answer. Try your local supplier and ask a few questions there.
 

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Troy - if you are going to use construction adhesive to attach the the foam board to the underside of the floor be careful about using it in an enclosed area. I just finished putting down 3/4 inch plywood on top of my subfloor kitchen and living room for tile and hardwood and there was a strong glue smell (a couple of days) in the basement from using it. You should be able to find the tubes of glue that you will need in your local hardware store under the PL brand. I would think that either PL200 or PL400 would be more than what you need. You will need a caulking gun - a couple of bucks - and do not get the glue on your hands because it is a problem getting it off. All you need to do is to put a couple of wavy lines of glue on the foam board and it should hold in place with a couple of screws with the large washers on them.

Hope this helps

Regards
Gord
 
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Troy Hamon

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Well...I went and looked at the construction adhesive and the applicators...couldn't conceive of a way I could work with it in the minimal space beneath the building...so I didn't get any. I asked for the plastic washers that are used, and they were out. They assured me that there were some coming, 'in the next few days,' but I didn't appear to have the same definition of 'few days' as they did. So I gave up on them. I drilled holes in a strip of remnant flooring plywood (1/4"), cut the whole thing into little squares around each hole, and then put a screw into each. These I carted around under the building with me as I crawled with the cordless drill. I put up all the foam, first putting fiberglass or foam pieces in all the ends to seal off all the potential cold intrusion points. I fit the foam together tightly enough that I'm probably going to try to live through the winter with it. I used a can of spray foam on some of the foam pieces in between the joist ends, but the other three cans were duds (welcome to bush Alaska...and be careful about buying ice cream at the store...). It's now turned cold and I can't apply the stuff unless it is above 45F, so even if I wanted to try my luck again I have to wait for warmer weather. We might get some this winter at some point... I'm hesitant to do that though, because I may find that the floor is not nearly warm enough, in which case a little bit of sealant around the edges is probably not sufficient. By not having the foam glued in, I can have blow-in insulation added next year if I want...we'll see. In the meantime, our annual art show is one weekend away (Nov. 4) and I've got to get ready for that. Simultaneously, I have two kids drawing pumpkin carving designs for me to practice my cutlery arts tomorrow night on orange orbs...
 
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Troy Hamon

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Cold has descended and I am trying to prepare to work in the darkroom again, now that the art show is over. I installed a drawer under the counter next to the enlarger Friday night. I had to cut a 2x2 to provide a support for the rail on one side, and used one of the 2x4 supports of the counter for the other side. I didn't want to put the 2x2 all the way down to the shelf because it would constrain access, so I cut a piece just long enough and screwed it to the top support for the counter and have it hanging down just drawer level. That way I can still slide tubs in and out beneath it.

We have had some pretty cold weather, in the 4-18 degree range, and right now an electric ceramic space heater on low is sufficient to keep the place comfortable...wow. Last year it couldn't even sort of keep up. The floor insulation is a huge improvement.

I never did get the skirting built, so I took scraps of flooring and plywood and put up a Bristol Bay skirting by leaning it all around the building. It at least will reduce the wind penetration under the building, and so far seems to be doing so. Next year, first project.

I'd like to put up a nice long low shelf, very narrow, just above the counter top. Maybe six inches deep or even four inches. That's probably the next project, but not sure it will happen this year, maybe next year.
 
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Troy Hamon

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Well, decided that I will have to put in the additional shelves now whether I want to or not, because I really need to help myself get organized...too many projects, too much to do, never enough counter space.

I also realized that the plumbing needed to be thought through again. I didn't want to deal with the 200 foot trench to get the water to the darkroom, nor heating the lines to keep it from freezing. So I put in a water tank that can be filled and then just gravity feed to the sink. This seems good as we often in winter get warm spells above zero when the 200 gallon tank could be filled. However, here we are going on many days since we hit subfreezing weather, and the only brief window near freezing was while I was trapped at work, and no obvious warming on the horizon. What to do?

I'm ready to start working again, so I've come up with another solution. I bought an aquarium pump capable of pumping with sufficient lift. I intend to carry the water in 5 gallon buckets and use the lift pump to fill the tank. I thought it sounded like a hassle, but honestly now I have got the details worked out it sounds totally okay, and should work just swimmingly. The pump is on the way and I'm buying shelving Saturday.

The project continues...don't they all?
 

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Hi Troy.

I think you should get some sort of 'Apug gold star of commitment' for building your darkroom considering where you live. Is there anybody else here more isolated (farther away from large centres with photography stores) than you?

Keep trucking Troy, spring is only 6 months away :wink:

I love winter myself, how about you?

Murray
 
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Troy Hamon

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Hi Murray...There's always somebody more isolated. I'm pretty out there compared to most, though...I wonder who it would be? Perhaps anybody in China or India?

I do love winter. I don't like the heating fuel, but we have a well-built and insulated house, so it is pretty reasonable. I love running and photographing in winter both, and hopefully this winter I will enjoy printing as well.
 
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