D76 with Tmax 100 and Tmax 400

[Alan Edward Klein]

The lab I've sent it to uses D76. Is there anything i should tell them? The 4x5 sheet film is shot for normal processing. No pushing or pulling. Thanks. Alan.

 

[markbau]

If they are processing according to Kodak specs there shouldn’t be any issues, after all, D76 was the developer used when they were inventing TMax, XTOL came later.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

If they are processing according to Kodak specs there shouldn’t be any issues, after all, D76 was the developer used when they were inventing TMax, XTOL came later.

I read that Xtol provides better resolution than other developers. How about tones? is there anything particular about D76? Is there a D76+ ??

 

[chriscrawfordphoto]

I read that Xtol provides better resolution than other developers. How about tones? is there anything particular about D76? Is there a D76+ ??

Resolution is not an issue with 4x5. Xtol does give a little bit finer grain than D76, but you won't see it in 4x5, and even in 35mm I still prefer D-76 because it has better tonal rendering for me. D-76 1+1 is my developer of choice for Tmax 100 and 400. Tmax 400 is still very fine grained with D-76, even in smaller formats, and as I said in 4x5 grain and resolution are not an issue no matter what developer you use.

 

[jimjm]

D76 works great with TMax films. Use it with everything from 35mm to 8x10. I also like HC-110 for convenience, but if I have a lot of film to develop, I'll mix up a batch of D76. I prefer to use it at 1:1 and generally rate my film at 1 stop overexposure. For wet-printing, I prefer the look I get from a denser negative. Hard to go wrong with it.

TMax 100 (35mm), D76 1:1, printed on Ilford MG

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Thanks everyone. Well the film is out. I'll know in about a week or so.

 

[chriscrawfordphoto]

D76 works great with TMax films. Use it with everything from 35mm to 8x10. I also like HC-110 for convenience, but if I have a lot of film to develop, I'll mix up a batch of D76. I prefer to use it at 1:1 and generally rate my film at 1 stop overexposure. For wet-printing, I prefer the look I get from a denser negative. Hard to go wrong with it.

TMax 100 (35mm), D76 1:1, printed on Ilford MG
View attachment 244040

That is a beautiful photograph.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

The lab I've sent it to uses D76. Is there anything i should tell them? The 4x5 sheet film is shot for normal processing. No pushing or pulling. Thanks. Alan.

There are no special instructions required that combination all the best.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Thanks again.

 

[jimjm]

That is a beautiful photograph.

Thank you Chris! Much appreciated.
I've gained a lot of knowledge and inspiration from your site and photos over the years.

 

[Sal Santamaura]

I read that Xtol provides better resolution than other developers. How about tones?...

Look at the curves shown for various film-developer (and developer dilution) combinations shown here.

http://www.fotoimport.no/filmtest/fktmax.html​

http://fotoimport.no/pg02/pg02-1-1.htm#tab​

Those should provide all the information necessary to explain tonal response of TMX and TMY-2. These films can be made to look like anything one wishes from a tone perspective.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Look at the curves shown for various film-developer (and developer dilution) combinations shown here.

http://www.fotoimport.no/filmtest/fktmax.html​

http://fotoimport.no/pg02/pg02-1-1.htm#tab​

Those should provide all the information necessary to explain tonal response of TMX and TMY-2. These films can be made to look like anything one wishes from a tone perspective.

Unfortunately, I don;t have a darkroom and must have my film developed in a lab. Sio that's why I was asking. How could I do things in a way that could duplicate home processing but using a pro lab?

 

[Sal Santamaura]

Unfortunately, I don;t have a darkroom and must have my film developed in a lab. Sio that's why I was asking. How could I do things in a way that could duplicate home processing but using a pro lab?

You'd need to decide from the curves what film-developer combination you desire and then find a lab that will develop the film using whatever developer/dilution you prefer. I'd rather use a changing bag and develop the film myself than attempt such a feat.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

You'd need to decide from the curves what film-developer combination you desire and then find a lab that will develop the film using whatever developer/dilution you prefer. I'd rather use a changing bag and develop the film myself than attempt such a feat.

I really don't understand curves except on blondes and redheads. Could you spell out in an English sentence or two what I can expect if I do this or do that?

 

[Sal Santamaura]

I really don't understand curves except on blondes and redheads. Could you spell out in an English sentence or two what I can expect if I do this or do that?

There may be pedagogues here who can, and the late Ron Mowery might have attempted it, but such a feat is beyond me.

In my experience, if you really want to understand what the curves mean, Ansel Adams' three-book series is the way to go. It can be had without undue financial expense, although grasping its content will take some effort:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-lis...g_used_olp_sr?ie=UTF8&condition=used&qid=&sr=​

Otherwise, you're essentially reduced to trying different combinations of films and labs, at a cost that could very well exceed the books.

 

[mohmad khatab]

AGFA - Neutol WA
EDTA Na4 10g
Potassium Sulfite 225 g ( 225 g sod. sulfie)
Hydroquinone 45 g
Phenidone 1.5 g ((15 g Metol ))
Potassium Carbonate 45 g
Potassium Hydroxide 15 g
Potassium Bromide.. 10 g
Anti Fog ..................0.1 g
Water to 1 liter
Dilution:
For negative film 1: 7 (6: 1/4 minutes 18 ° C)
For paper: 1:14

 

[DREW WILEY]

TMax films are compatible with many developers. D76 is a sorta middle of the road developer; if that's what your lab is most comfortable with, it will be fine. Shoot your film at box speed (100 for TMax100, 400 for TMY400).

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Thanks everyone.