FP4+ has a fairly long straight line in general purpose developers so I’m not buying the argument that rating it at 64 vs 125 impacts openness or cleanliness of midtones. It might open deep shadows a little, but that is exactly what one would expect whenever film is given extra exposure.
Hi Michael,FP4+ was not “optimized” for Perceptol. Perceptol is designed to give finer grain than D-76/ID-11. This type of extra fine grain developer is typically expected to produce slightly less acutance and emulsion speed, though this depends to some extent on the emulsion.
I found no real difference in curve shape in Perceptol at various dilutions relative to ID-11 at various dilutions, which means “tonality” is the same.
FP4+ has a fairly long straight line in general purpose developers so I’m not buying the argument that rating it at 64 vs 125 impacts openness or cleanliness of midtones. It might open deep shadows a little, but that is exactly what one would expect whenever film is given extra exposure.
That's interesting, Lachlan, thanks.Some of the best low frequency sharpness effects I've seen from FP4+ were in full strength ID-11, continuously agitated.
99% of this EI 'discussion' is from people who put amazing amounts of effort into not reading a lightmeter, or worse still, had read all the usual Zone System indoctrination texts before they ever used one...
Hi warden, I don't have the link, but if you place a bit of that text in the search area, you'll see it instantly.Do you have a link to that older thread? I'd like to check it out. Thanks.
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/trying-a-few-rolls-of-fp4.68362/#post-963306Hi warden, I don't have the link, but if you place a bit of that text in the search area, you'll see it instantly.
You're very welcome. Today I read several good comments about Ilfosol-3 with FP4+. It kind of surprised me because of the biggish grain from FP4+ in general and from Ilfosol-3 in general too: but lots of people say they work very well together.https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/trying-a-few-rolls-of-fp4.68362/#post-963306
I don't have knowledge to offer this thread but have been shooting a lot of FP4 recently so it's of interest to me. (I'm using Ilfosol 3)
Hi AZD,I’m a casual user of FP4 in D76, though what I do use gets printed in the darkroom. I think everyone will have different expectations, and as you mentioned, photos posted online aren’t much help since there is no standard process.
I typically aim for a negative with higher than normal contrast. This is for two reasons. One is that I like that look. The other is that my chosen paper, Fomabrom 111, seems to print with less contrast than Ilford. Before I came to understand that I was aiming for a lower contrast negative (usually good advice) at 64 with D76 1:1. In high contrast scenes like sunlit beaches that worked pretty well, but looked flat otherwise unless I used the highest grade filters. Skip forward a few rolls, I now prefer it at 125-250, with longer development in stock D76. Basically pushing a little for the look rather than the extra speed. FP4 can really pull out the shadow detail, so no worries there.
It is an excellent film, I’m sure you can dial it in with the usual adjustments to exposure and development.
That's interesting, Lachlan, thanks.
I'm liking FP4+ even in stock D-76, exposed at the generous EI that was always recommended for Perceptol.
It could be that's why Ilford recommend EI50 with ID-11 too.
Maybe there's no clearly better possible result with Perceptol over ID-11 some years ago, after the film's evolution.
I guess the lower acutance thing is overrated by internet, and yes, it can possibly exist, but it's irrelevant when a photograph is a good one: prints are totally sharp too!
It's not that they are worse because of stock developer...
Hi AZD,
Photojournalists used -some decades ago- FP4 at EI200 daily, with results that were considered optimal, in Microphen.
It's really difficult to find agreement in EIs because people meter differently, so some of those who defend 64 and 80, and those preferring 100 and 125, may all be exposing their FP4+ in an identical way, while they discuss.
Juan won't forgive youRecently though, I've been developing it in Xtol-R.
Juan won't forgive you.
To Juan: If you want "clean and open" mid-tones, that tells me that you want increased straight line (mid-tone) contrast.
Instead of over-exposing (EI of 64) try shooting at box speed and increasing development.[/QUOTE
Not sure who told you this, but it isn’t correct. Sorry.
As for metol-sulfite, what you should really be using is D-23. Perceptol (basically Microdol) was an evolution of extra solvent metol developers intended to produce extra fine grain for small format negatives. D-25 (essentially a lower pH version of D-23) and DK-20 are examples.
Anyway, good luck.
I think I remember you like Xtol-R and some other times Pyro? What would you do between Perceptol and D-76 ?I truly believe that people worry too much about shadows.
The most important part of the vast majority of images is the mid-tones. Followed thereafter by how the highlights render.
And followed a long way behind by how the shadows look.
If you expose at box speed and develop either normally or a bit more, in most situations your shadow detail will be pleasing and natural - even in sunlit conditions. Any variance can be handled at the printing stage.
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