Current FP4+ users? D-76/ID-11 and Perceptol?

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The last time I used FP4+ I liked it at 64-80 in D-76: I didn't like it at EI125: midtones didn't seem open and clean.
Has someone compared in recent years both types of developers to see if current FP4+ remains better in Perceptol (metol) than in MQ developers when speed is secondary?
I have not found good prints scans, only negative scans, on the web.
All comments about general FP4+ behaviour, different EIs and about it in MQ / M developers are the subjects here, thanks.
I have several gallon packs of Perceptol and D-76, and this film has been optimized for those two for decades.
Please no Xtol / Rodinal comments.

Here's an interesting post on FP4+, from 2010 (by 2F/2F):

Hi,

FP4 is my main medium-speed b/w film.

One reason it often looks muddy is that it does not maintain its tonal relationships very well when either underexposed or overexposed. Quite frankly, most people underexpose and overexpose everything they shoot most of the time (and this does not even get into the variables encountered with processing), because they use reflected light meters that read the composition, as opposed to either tonal placement or a measurement of the light source (incident metering). Another reason is that most people aren't very good printers, so don't know how to best recover from poor exposure and contrast issues. Another reason is that when you are looking on line at photos, you are seeing photos from any old Joe Blow, and there are also some technical issues that have to do with how photos are viewed on computer screens (digitization, calibration, etc.).

FP4 is somewhat "old school" in that it will readily compress highlights, which some people love and some people hate. I really like it for most things I shoot. However, this feature means that perfect exposure is more important than with some films. If you overexpose, you noticeably (with the naked eye) lose contrast with FP4. This is not the case with HP5, and certainly not with Delta 100 and 400, T-Max, etc. These films can capture high-end detail till the cows come home. Not so with FP4. As I said, depending on the shot, this is either a good thing or a bad thing.

On the low end, where you might expect the same to apply (except it is called toe instead of shoulder), you actually get up onto the straight line of the curve relatively quickly for a traditionally-grained emulsion. FP4 has plenty of "bite" in the low tones, and handles underexposure better than it handles overexposure IME.

I like the film because it is naturally punchy and dramatic in the low tones, yet delicate and gentle in the high tones. However, the high end can also be given a little kick with overdevelopment.

IME, HP5 is almost exactly the opposite. It is the low tones and mids that are soft and can easily become compressed ("mushy") or lost, and the high tones that bite.

I rate FP4 at 200 for use with the Zone System (one of the only films that I rate higher than box speed when doing tonal placement), and at box speed for standard exposure (incident or sunny 16/exposure chart). I use HC-110 dilution B for normal and harsh negs, and dilution H for softer negs. I have also used it with Rodinal and D-23, but I like HC-110 best for general purposes.

The film can get grainy. It is not like Delta or T-Max, with which you need to try to find the grain. It is there, and can readily be brought out even more by either sloppy exposure and processing or purposeful manipulation.

I think it is a great all-around medium-speed b/w film. If I had to pick one, FP4 would be it. However, I supplement it with T-Max 100 for certain applications (flat light, long exposures, when I want extreme sharpness and/or lack of visible grain, etc.).
 

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Do you have a link to that older thread? I'd like to check it out. Thanks.
 

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I’m a casual user of FP4 in D76, though what I do use gets printed in the darkroom. I think everyone will have different expectations, and as you mentioned, photos posted online aren’t much help since there is no standard process.

I typically aim for a negative with higher than normal contrast. This is for two reasons. One is that I like that look. The other is that my chosen paper, Fomabrom 111, seems to print with less contrast than Ilford. Before I came to understand that I was aiming for a lower contrast negative (usually good advice) at 64 with D76 1:1. In high contrast scenes like sunlit beaches that worked pretty well, but looked flat otherwise unless I used the highest grade filters. Skip forward a few rolls, I now prefer it at 125-250, with longer development in stock D76. Basically pushing a little for the look rather than the extra speed. FP4 can really pull out the shadow detail, so no worries there.

It is an excellent film, I’m sure you can dial it in with the usual adjustments to exposure and development.
 

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Some of the best low frequency sharpness effects I've seen from FP4+ were in full strength ID-11, continuously agitated.

FP4+ has a fairly long straight line in general purpose developers so I’m not buying the argument that rating it at 64 vs 125 impacts openness or cleanliness of midtones. It might open deep shadows a little, but that is exactly what one would expect whenever film is given extra exposure.

99% of this EI 'discussion' is from people who put amazing amounts of effort into not reading a lightmeter, or worse still, had read all the usual Zone System indoctrination texts before they ever used one...
 
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FP4+ was not “optimized” for Perceptol. Perceptol is designed to give finer grain than D-76/ID-11. This type of extra fine grain developer is typically expected to produce slightly less acutance and emulsion speed, though this depends to some extent on the emulsion.

I found no real difference in curve shape in Perceptol at various dilutions relative to ID-11 at various dilutions, which means “tonality” is the same.

FP4+ has a fairly long straight line in general purpose developers so I’m not buying the argument that rating it at 64 vs 125 impacts openness or cleanliness of midtones. It might open deep shadows a little, but that is exactly what one would expect whenever film is given extra exposure.
Hi Michael,
Metol only developers existed before MQ ones if I remember well.
A developer like Perceptol was/is considered THE developer for traditional grain.
After metol only development was the normal development, it was discovered that the mix of M and HQ was able to give us more speed, but with some loss in IQ, from higher grain growth.
Just as when we go from ID-11 to MIcrophen: a bit more speed, a bit less IQ.
Speed was usually preferred by the masses, so D-76 and ID-11 became the common ones, after some time. That doesn't mean metol only developers can't work better than MQ ones with some films, if well used. Negatives and prints are totally sharp even if we use metol developers stock.
Apart, of course developers' dilutions affect tone: that's why 1+3 is preferred for direct sunlight: I'm not saying Perceptol and ID-11 produce different tonality at the same dilutions, obviously.
But apart again, acutance is so many times a fairy tale. I know the difference between sharpness and acutance. Also a fairy tale is sharp/unsharp grain from using stock developer: Tri-X in stock D-76, for instance, produces totally sharp grain. Films evolve. That's why my question talked about recent comparisons with FP4+ in both developers.
No one is in need of you buying or not if different EIs affect midtones. I'm fine if you say your opinions here, of course. My opinion is EI with FP4+ affects midtones, and it comes from what I've seen. But it's not my opinion: it's been said by lots of photographers for decades too. Could it be you're right and everybody's wrong?
I think your post wasn't good for relevant or final answers for the subjects of this thread, but very good at showing you tried to say I was wrong at many things...
Again, you're always welcome: it's your right.
But I think the subject remains as open as after my first post.
The main subject is if Perceptol can yet produce, with current FP4+, better results than those from ID-11/D-76, just as it happenned years ago.
 
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Some of the best low frequency sharpness effects I've seen from FP4+ were in full strength ID-11, continuously agitated.



99% of this EI 'discussion' is from people who put amazing amounts of effort into not reading a lightmeter, or worse still, had read all the usual Zone System indoctrination texts before they ever used one...
That's interesting, Lachlan, thanks.
I'm liking FP4+ even in stock D-76, exposed at the generous EI that was always recommended for Perceptol.
It could be that's why Ilford recommend EI50 with ID-11 too.
Maybe there's no clearly better possible result with Perceptol over ID-11 some years ago, after the film's evolution.
I guess the lower acutance thing is overrated by internet, and yes, it can possibly exist, but it's irrelevant when a photograph is a good one: prints are totally sharp too!
It's not that they are worse because of stock developer...
 
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Michael:
If you read my first post, this time you'll notice I didn't write -as you said in your post- FP4+ was optimized for Perceptol. but for both common M and MQ developers, implying the evolution of that film grew for decades hand by hand with those two, instead of modern grain films, more related to DD-X, etc.
 
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https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/trying-a-few-rolls-of-fp4.68362/#post-963306

I don't have knowledge to offer this thread but have been shooting a lot of FP4 recently so it's of interest to me. (I'm using Ilfosol 3)
You're very welcome. Today I read several good comments about Ilfosol-3 with FP4+. It kind of surprised me because of the biggish grain from FP4+ in general and from Ilfosol-3 in general too: but lots of people say they work very well together.
 
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Fims behave very differently sometimes. I can use -e.g.- HP5+ for overcast with great tone at EIs a lot higher than its ISO, but that can't always be done with other films' designs. Comments on that matter would be great here: that`s why I copied the 2010 post, which says things close to what I`m finding.
 
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I’m a casual user of FP4 in D76, though what I do use gets printed in the darkroom. I think everyone will have different expectations, and as you mentioned, photos posted online aren’t much help since there is no standard process.

I typically aim for a negative with higher than normal contrast. This is for two reasons. One is that I like that look. The other is that my chosen paper, Fomabrom 111, seems to print with less contrast than Ilford. Before I came to understand that I was aiming for a lower contrast negative (usually good advice) at 64 with D76 1:1. In high contrast scenes like sunlit beaches that worked pretty well, but looked flat otherwise unless I used the highest grade filters. Skip forward a few rolls, I now prefer it at 125-250, with longer development in stock D76. Basically pushing a little for the look rather than the extra speed. FP4 can really pull out the shadow detail, so no worries there.

It is an excellent film, I’m sure you can dial it in with the usual adjustments to exposure and development.
Hi AZD,
Photojournalists used -some decades ago- FP4 at EI200 daily, with results that were considered optimal, in Microphen.
It's really difficult to find agreement in EIs because people meter differently, so some of those who defend 64 and 80, and those preferring 100 and 125, may all be exposing their FP4+ in an identical way, while they discuss. :smile:
 

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That's interesting, Lachlan, thanks.
I'm liking FP4+ even in stock D-76, exposed at the generous EI that was always recommended for Perceptol.
It could be that's why Ilford recommend EI50 with ID-11 too.
Maybe there's no clearly better possible result with Perceptol over ID-11 some years ago, after the film's evolution.
I guess the lower acutance thing is overrated by internet, and yes, it can possibly exist, but it's irrelevant when a photograph is a good one: prints are totally sharp too!
It's not that they are worse because of stock developer...

The issue with the solvency level likely relates to old emulsion design techniques with relatively poorly controlled iodide placement (and low levels thereof), which may have potentially caused various effects (potentially even mild monobath-like effects) - which were a non-issue in diluted or replenished developers as the sulphite level was below the necessary threshold. Modern (since 50s-60s) emulsions with higher levels of increasingly precisely placed iodide seem to seek to exploit developer solvency to release the iodide which delivers useful local inhibition effects for sharpness enhancement. The speed recommendations between ID-11 and Perceptol likely have to do with Perceptol's even higher solvency and a few other potential factors (the EI advice is really meant for those using TTL meters and operating at fairly casual levels of process control) including the way that Perceptol can generate apparent sharpness via metol exhaustion effects, while in ID-11, the HQ (HQMS in effect) seems to act as a replenishing electron pump rather than superadditively, essentially negating the metol exhaustion effects (Phenidones seem to produce inhibition effects, even when replenished by electron pump effects from HQ etc). Stock Perceptol should lower granularity further than ID-11, but it may not make much in the way of perceivable difference below 10x - and dilute Perceptol might be fractionally sharper than ID-11, though in a double blind test of prints, I think the differences would be difficult to spot. I also strongly suspect that the slower development rate of diluted Perceptol caused it to be talked-up by some writers as it broadened the margins of error in their processes without them being aware of it.
 
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Thank you very much, Lachlan, for this extended post: it's great.
I like D-76 stock for portraiture/soft light with FP4+ in 120 @64: of course other developers work very well too, but D-76 apart from being wonderful, is one I can have all the time, and that counts too.
Good night!
 

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Hi AZD,
Photojournalists used -some decades ago- FP4 at EI200 daily, with results that were considered optimal, in Microphen.
It's really difficult to find agreement in EIs because people meter differently, so some of those who defend 64 and 80, and those preferring 100 and 125, may all be exposing their FP4+ in an identical way, while they discuss. :smile:

This is very true. It’s a mess when you look at it closely. That said, my recent attempts to get control over my results usually include taking the same test scene across a 5 stop range (-2 to +2 stops from an average reading) then developing for a bit higher than normal contrast. Nearly every time I tend to prefer an EI one stop faster than box speed, so at least my eyeballs are consistent. (Delta 100 and Adox CHS 100 II turned out to be exceptions. Box speed for both.) It took some trial and error to figure out that what I really wanted.
 

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Recently though, I've been developing it in Xtol-R.
Juan won't forgive you :whistling:.
To Juan: If you want "clean and open" mid-tones, that tells me that you want increased straight line (mid-tone) contrast.
Instead of over-exposing (EI of 64) try shooting at box speed and increasing development.
 
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Juan won't forgive you :whistling:.
To Juan: If you want "clean and open" mid-tones, that tells me that you want increased straight line (mid-tone) contrast.
Instead of over-exposing (EI of 64) try shooting at box speed and increasing development.[/QUOTE
:smile:
I've used replenished Xtol, in two different years...
I even bought it again, a third time (for direct sunlight), but that bag was one of those with the issue...
For some reason I saw it as not optimal for sharp grain nor for soft light, both my common uses: but of course it's very close to my beloved D-76.
About nobody talking about Rodinal or Xtol here, I was just trying to avoid 95% of this thread's posts going totally away from my questions, but it's OK to read some of those opinions no doubt.
I have not tried PyroHD with FP4+ but maybe it would give me sharp grain: less than Rodinal (for portraiture) I mean.
I think you're right about expansion without overexposing, for open midtones... But I see three problems, and please correct me: one is not being able to mix sun scenes with good shadows in the same roll (this is a mixed scenes intention for fast handheld use of MF without two backs), the second one is I feel at 50-64 grain is clearly smaller for portraits... The third one is shadows are stronger for portraiture at box speed: not the best option for most portraits.
I'm trying to find a point of balance, and expand a bit more while printing.
Thank you, Matt !
 

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I truly believe that people worry too much about shadows.
The most important part of the vast majority of images is the mid-tones. Followed thereafter by how the highlights render.
And followed a long way behind by how the shadows look.
If you expose at box speed and develop either normally or a bit more, in most situations your shadow detail will be pleasing and natural - even in sunlit conditions. Any variance can be handled at the printing stage.
 
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Not sure who told you this, but it isn’t correct. Sorry.

As for metol-sulfite, what you should really be using is D-23. Perceptol (basically Microdol) was an evolution of extra solvent metol developers intended to produce extra fine grain for small format negatives. D-25 (essentially a lower pH version of D-23) and DK-20 are examples.

Anyway, good luck.

Although not prints scans, here's the beautiful small sharp tight grain I see with Perceptol, which is precisely D-23 with a bit of salt:

https://www.richardpickup.com/blog/2016/10/9/pebble-project-fp4

A shame there's no ID-11 sample.
 
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I truly believe that people worry too much about shadows.
The most important part of the vast majority of images is the mid-tones. Followed thereafter by how the highlights render.
And followed a long way behind by how the shadows look.
If you expose at box speed and develop either normally or a bit more, in most situations your shadow detail will be pleasing and natural - even in sunlit conditions. Any variance can be handled at the printing stage.
I think I remember you like Xtol-R and some other times Pyro? What would you do between Perceptol and D-76 ?
Maybe I'll do tests aiming at D-76 for 120 and Perceptol for 35mm for equivalent grain control...
 

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I've observed other people's use of Pyro developers and understand the advantages, but don't use them myself.
When I last used Microdol X, it was a current Kodak offering, and I was a lot skinnier, and had a lot longer hair :D.
Basically, I've used HC-110 one shot, HC-110 replenished, and X-Tol replenished for a couple of decades.
I've never put much energy into comparing developers, because all the major ones work quite similarly.
Some of my friends have different opinions about that.
 

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From a 6x4.5 T-Max 400 negative in X-Tol (I believe).
Indirect light.
upload_2022-1-23_21-23-32.png
 
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I think once you showed me that image, and I think I told you I liked the tone... Or was it the one with the metal chair with little holes?
All its range, I mean, from shadows to shining metal both...
I know TMY well, more or less: D-76, FX-39 and Microphen, from 250 to 1000 in my case: my favourite film as I've said so many times, but no one sells it around here. Anyway TMY is the film I use the most.
HP5+ and FP4+ are the only films I can buy here any day of the year...
I'd say FP4 can produce the same image you show with TMY, with the same tone, but with a little more grain. Some forum members, like Thomas Bertilsson talk about how close the tones of both are.
I forgive you for being totally out of my question! :wink: Great exposure and development in your shot! I get what you're saying, thanks!
By the way, Thomas' wonderful portrait of the boy is FP4+ in Xtol-R, and light was soft... Mmmmmm...
Good night!
 

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Closest I've got is a 6x4.5 Plus-X negative in replenished HC-110 dil E :D
upload_2022-1-23_22-6-53.png
 
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