Current cost to develop color film (C 41) at home

[removed account4]

don't forget to add in the cost of photo waste ( and wash water ) disposal, and the cost of water ... a cost often over looked
unless you don't care about water costs and you unfortunately dump your photo waste down your drain.

 

[peoplemerge]

@jnanian good point.

Photo waste is free here in so-cal for households, up to a point that I'll never reach. You need to leave it in the container you transport it in tho. Gas driving to the location is not!

I'll need to estimate my wash volume per cycle. I have no idea what we pay for water per gallon. In CA it's not cheap.

 

[Chan Tran]

I can print better than the lab because I know exactly what I want. I can't develop color negative film better than the lab as they have automated equipment, replenishing, control strip etc.. that make the process much more consistent than I can. When I had to do it myself I use the chemical only once to keep it consistent and doing so cost me much more than the lab.

 

[RPC]

I can print better than the lab because I know exactly what I want. I can't develop color negative film better than the lab as they have automated equipment, replenishing, control strip etc.. that make the process much more consistent than I can. When I had to do it myself I use the chemical only once to keep it consistent and doing so cost me much more than the lab.

Replenishment depends on sufficient volume of film running through the machines to work properly. Many local labs these days likely do not have such volume. So one has to ask the question, what does the lab do if this is the case, and control strip readings are off? Does it do anything? That is one reason why I prefer to develop myself. I would never trust a lab these days for anything important unless I knew them well. I am careful enough that my results are consistently in spec.

 

[Chan Tran]

Replenishment depends on sufficient volume of film running through the machines to work properly. Many local labs these days likely do not have such volume. So one has to ask the question, what does the lab do if this is the case, and control strip readings are off? Does it do anything? That is one reason why I prefer to develop myself. I would never trust a lab these days for anything important unless I knew them well. I am careful enough that my results are consistently in spec.

I used to manage a 1 hour processing lab and I run about 100 rolls of 35mm film a day. I run control strip every day. Make minor adjustments as needed. My process is very consistent and all the plots are within 0.5 density of target. I did visit a couple of photo stores that do their process in house and they said they couldn't get 10 rolls a day. That's the minimum to keep a good process.
I decided to get rid of my darkroom (as I never find good reasons to develop my own film because it's a strict process and much more suitable for high volume automated process) and shoot only slides. I hope that I send my film to still have sufficient volume as they do it nationwide.

 

[dmr]

For chemicals, I figured $3 and change per roll, assuming 8 rolls from a 1 Qt. Cinestill or Arista kit.

 

[EdSawyer]

I am at about $0.45 - $0.65 per roll (120 or 35mm) or sheet of 4x5 for film processing costs using regular Kodak C-41 chemistry from Uniquephoto (and elsewhere).

 

[Wallendo]

The cost per roll depends on your needs and tolerances.
Look at this product listing from Freestyle http://www.freestylephoto.biz/80034...id-Developing-Kit-for-C-41-Color-Film-1-Quart
Depending on which part of the listing you read, you can either develop 8 or 24 rolls. For optical printing at high quality, you should likely stick to 8. If you can tolerate minor color shifts, you can go higher. If you are scanning and willing to work with color levels or curves, you can go even higher.

 

[Berri]

I use tetenal 1L kit and I process 20 films. it costs 29.5€ including shipping (from tetenal Italy) it makes about 1.5€ per roll which is acceptable. I also print my colour negative and I don't get much difference between the first rolls and the last. I store my chemicals in dark brown bottles and I also use has to reduce oxidation. I could go even cheaper (about 1€ per roll) if I'd use the 2.5L kit

 

[Patrick Robert James]

I am curious what developer you guys use from Unique. I have everything else covered, but need more developer. Do I just need to buy the developer? Or starter too? Forgive the basic question, but I have never mixed color chems.

Is this all I need? https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/kodak-c-41-entwickler-flxclr-devr-rplr-3667805

 

[rpavich]

I am curious what developer you guys use from Unique. I have everything else covered, but need more developer. Do I just need to buy the developer? Or starter too? Forgive the basic question, but I have never mixed color chems.

Is this all I need? https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/kodak-c-41-entwickler-flxclr-devr-rplr-3667805

I think it's this.

Developer starter and Developer replenisher.

If you already have the starter then just get the developer replenisher.

 

[peoplemerge]

I concur with @rpavich:
Kodak 5L Flexicolor LU Developer Replenisher
and Kodak 1.2L C-41 Developer/Starter LORR

Look at Kodak's Z100 for comprehensive information on which chemicals match which process based on your expected volume, or lack thereof, like me. I concluded LORR and C41 non-B non-RA was sensible for my color film needs. Whereas for RA4 printing, LORR seems to fit a higher-volume RT.

 

[BMbikerider]

Prices between the USA and UK will differ, but I always buy a 2.5 litre kit sold under the Rollie Digibase lable. For consistancy in development I always process on the 'Use once and throw away principal'. If I process 2 x 35mm films I can get 20 films out of the kit which costs £39, so that is just under £2 per film (250ccc of developer). If I process a single film (150cc) I can get 16 films which obviously costs more but that is worth it to get the consistency of colour.

The full kit when diluted is initially stored in 4 x 500cc glass bottles, 2 x 150cc and 2 x 100cc bottles. (all with screw caps) Even after 3-4 months there is absolutely no change in colour of the chemicals, almost certainly due to the way of storage. Before the bottles are sealed the chemicals are warmed up in a microwave and the caps screwed on. As the contents cool down the seal given by the caps ensures that the cooling effect forms a partial vacuum so delaying any decomposition.

 

[rpavich]

The full kit when diluted is initially stored in 4 x 500cc glass bottles, 2 x 150cc and 2 x 100cc bottles. (all with screw caps) Even after 3-4 months there is absolutely no change in colour of the chemicals, almost certainly due to the way of storage. Before the bottles are sealed the chemicals are warmed up in a microwave and the caps screwed on. As the contents cool down the seal given by the caps ensures that the cooling effect forms a partial vacuum so delaying any decomposition.

I agree and would only add; PET soda bottles do a great job. They are made to seal in carbonation so they work fantastic. I collect them all of the time. Free is good.

 

[peoplemerge]

Out of curiosity, what's the advantage of premixing the entire product vs mixing from concentrate every time? If convenience, I get that. I wonder, though, I thought developer breaks down once mixed.

 

[rpavich]

Out of curiosity, what's the advantage of premixing the entire product vs mixing from concentrate every time? If convenience, I get that. I wonder, though, I thought developer breaks down once mixed.

I have seen folks advocate both ways; mixed at once and on a per use basis.
I think that the main thing is keeping oxygen out of the chems; meaning full bottles to the top, in bottles that don't allow air to pass through.

Both sides advocate for their method. Pick one.

 

[Berri]

Prices between the USA and UK will differ, but I always buy a 2.5 litre kit sold under the Rollie Digibase lable. For consistancy in development I always process on the 'Use once and throw away principal'. If I process 2 x 35mm films I can get 20 films out of the kit which costs £39, so that is just under £2 per film (250ccc of developer). If I process a single film (150cc) I can get 16 films which obviously costs more but that is worth it to get the consistency of colour.

The full kit when diluted is initially stored in 4 x 500cc glass bottles, 2 x 150cc and 2 x 100cc bottles. (all with screw caps) Even after 3-4 months there is absolutely no change in colour of the chemicals, almost certainly due to the way of storage. Before the bottles are sealed the chemicals are warmed up in a microwave and the caps screwed on. As the contents cool down the seal given by the caps ensures that the cooling effect forms a partial vacuum so delaying any decomposition.

What type of processor do you use? Is it a job type? Tanks like the Paterson need more chemicals for each 35mm roll and it would make the one shot approach not convenient. C41 is designed for replenishment, so you can reuse it without losing consistency in your results. With 2,5L kit you can get way more than 20 rolls.

 

[removed account4]

@jnanian good point.

Photo waste is free here in so-cal for households, up to a point that I'll never reach. You need to leave it in the container you transport it in tho. Gas driving to the location is not!

I'll need to estimate my wash volume per cycle. I have no idea what we pay for water per gallon. In CA it's not cheap.

glad i could help
and
good to see/hear you use the local disposal resource !
( a lot of people don't "deal with their waste"
and gives chemical photography a bad name )

oh well ..

good luck with your processing + printing !

 

[EdSawyer]

That 20L developer kit from Unique is what I use (linked in post #35 above). I mix 5L of it at a time, which I use one-shot, and 5L of replenisher (+ starter) will do about 44-48 rolls or sheets in my Phototherm SSK4. The starter is the same as pictured above, and incidentally they use the same starter for regular C41 and the LORR version, which is why it has that sort of dual-labelling. Mixed developer in a 5L container, without any special treatment to keep air out except capping it, will last for about 2-4 weeks, though I try to save up rolls and use it all in a week. It will discolor as it ages and is exposed to air.

 

[RPC]

Out of curiosity, what's the advantage of premixing the entire product vs mixing from concentrate every time? If convenience, I get that. I wonder, though, I thought developer breaks down once mixed.

Once opened, the developing agent concentrate will begin to oxidize and deteriorate. Therefore I never mix from partial concentrates. The best way is to mix all the developer and store it in glass jars filled to the top. The preservative in the mixed developer protects the developing agent from oxidation from air dissolved in the developer, and the oxygen-impermeable glass protects it from the outside air. Stored this way, I have had color developers, both C-41 and RA-4 (I use Kodak) last years and hardly change color, if at all. I use canning jars which have a tight seal, which is also important.

Those who say color developers don't last long aren't storing them properly, and are perpetuating a myth.

 

[peoplemerge]

Thanks. Seems like the type of discussion that must have been debated on apug previously !

Understand our confusion. I read kodak z131 and z100. They seem to somewhat contradict each other on storage times:

(Pardon the awkward layout, it's a copy from PDF)

Table 1-3 Storage Times for KODAK FLEXICOLOR
Mixed Solution (Fresh)
Tanks with Floating Covers / Full Stoppered Glass Bottles

Developer or Developer
Replenisher 6 weeks / 4 weeks
Bleach III Replenisher 8 weeks / 8 weeks*
Other Solutions 8 weeks / . 8 weeks

* Because aeration is beneficial to Bleach III Replenisher, do not use floating lids.

and

For best results, do not use KODAK FLEXICOLOR or EKTACOLOR
solutions stored longer than the times given in the table below.
Mixed Solutions
Solution in Processor–No Operation / Replenisher in Covered Tank
FLEXICOLOR Developer LORR 1 week / 4 weeks
EKTACOLOR RA Developer RT 1 week / 6 weeks
EKTACOLOR PRIME Developer LORR 1 week / 6 weeks
All other FLEXICOLOR and
EKTACOLOR solutions 2 weeks / 8 weeks

I was thinking of going to one-shot. I like the consistency rationale. It would probably cut the time required to process. It does up the cost somewhat. How much? Let's see. 500ml of developer per 120 vs 37.8ml of replenisher. Hard to calculate without knowing how often you discard the developer but for me it works out to $.35/roll replenishing. If you figure $16 of developer makes 5L, it works out to $1.60/roll of 120 to process one-shot.

As to the open developer chemicals oxidizing, I apply a spray of wine preserver (CO2 and Argon inert gas mix) after each use and pop on the lid. I haven't tested this over time so I don't know if that's good enough to preserve the chemicals for months on end.

I suppose I could switch to using the same style wine bags I use for mixed chemicals for chemical storage - makes it easy to load up to 3L of chemical or any amount less without exposing air.

Then again, could store each A B C developer chemical separately, whether or not deciding to process one-shot. Seems reasonable.

 

[RPC]

I read Kodak's documents long ago and I think they are either trying to be conservative and protect themselves or trying to sell more chemistry.

Actually their chemistry is intended for labs, so they know that labs are unlikely to be storing for longer than the given times anyway.

However, many here have reported, as I have discovered, that they can last much longer, and still give excellent results!

 

[BMbikerider]

Out of curiosity, what's the advantage of premixing the entire product vs mixing from concentrate every time? If convenience, I get that. I wonder, though, I thought developer breaks down once mixed.

The advantage is consistency, the key to better negatives and less messing around with colour filtration changes. All the chemicals mixed at once ensure the ratio of concentrate and water are the same (I use de-ionised water). The last batch I made where I mixed all the concentrates at one time lasted 9-10 weeks and there was no deterioration in the results and the working solution remained a very pale yellow. The chemicals don't 'break down' they oxidise and so long as you are able to store the mix in airtight glass bottles (which I do as described) they will certainly keep for a lot longer than 10 weeks.

There is a company in UK called First call who sell pre mixed C41 developer in soft bags lined with aluminium and they certainly keep well, even if a bag is half used but sealed and the air squeezed out before screwing the cap back on.

 

[BMbikerider]

What type of processor do you use? Is it a job type? Tanks like the Paterson need more chemicals for each 35mm roll and it would make the one shot approach not convenient. C41 is designed for replenishment, so you can reuse it without losing consistency in your results. With 2,5L kit you can get way more than 20 rolls.

I use a JOBO CPE2, now quite elderly I have owned it for over 20 years. The tanks are the standard JOBO 35mm holding one reel and uses 150cc of developer, or a Jobo 120 tank with 2 reels and uses 250cc of developer. The bench mark for me is, it is cheaper for me to do this than it is to take it to a mini-lab for the development, I also have the convenience of doing it at home and the control is all down to me. In the nearly 28 years I have been processing C41 in JOBO processors, I have only spoiled 2 films and that was down to a bad seal between the tank and the lid where the developer leaked out during the development stage. Not down to anything else. Replenishment I do not trust! I am happy with use once and ditch.

If you foul up developing a film, there is no way you can get it back. With my printing I do replenish, quite generously too and only rarely do I have to struggle to get the right balance.

 

[BMbikerider]

I agree and would only add; PET soda bottles do a great job. They are made to seal in carbonation so they work fantastic. I collect them all of the time. Free is good.

Photographic suppliers sell these bottles I use but the cost an absolute fortune. A quick search on the web showed that suppliers to chemists (Drug stores in the USA) you can buy them very very cheaply. EG a 500ml bottle will cost me no more than 20 pence which at the current exchange rate is about 15C. That way you can be confidant there will be no cross contamination with the previous contents.

You will gather by this and similar posts on the same subject I am quite fussy about my processing.