I can print better than the lab because I know exactly what I want. I can't develop color negative film better than the lab as they have automated equipment, replenishing, control strip etc.. that make the process much more consistent than I can. When I had to do it myself I use the chemical only once to keep it consistent and doing so cost me much more than the lab.
I used to manage a 1 hour processing lab and I run about 100 rolls of 35mm film a day. I run control strip every day. Make minor adjustments as needed. My process is very consistent and all the plots are within 0.5 density of target. I did visit a couple of photo stores that do their process in house and they said they couldn't get 10 rolls a day. That's the minimum to keep a good process.Replenishment depends on sufficient volume of film running through the machines to work properly. Many local labs these days likely do not have such volume. So one has to ask the question, what does the lab do if this is the case, and control strip readings are off? Does it do anything? That is one reason why I prefer to develop myself. I would never trust a lab these days for anything important unless I knew them well. I am careful enough that my results are consistently in spec.
I think it's this.I am curious what developer you guys use from Unique. I have everything else covered, but need more developer. Do I just need to buy the developer? Or starter too? Forgive the basic question, but I have never mixed color chems.
Is this all I need? https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/kodak-c-41-entwickler-flxclr-devr-rplr-3667805
I agree and would only add; PET soda bottles do a great job. They are made to seal in carbonation so they work fantastic. I collect them all of the time. Free is good.The full kit when diluted is initially stored in 4 x 500cc glass bottles, 2 x 150cc and 2 x 100cc bottles. (all with screw caps) Even after 3-4 months there is absolutely no change in colour of the chemicals, almost certainly due to the way of storage. Before the bottles are sealed the chemicals are warmed up in a microwave and the caps screwed on. As the contents cool down the seal given by the caps ensures that the cooling effect forms a partial vacuum so delaying any decomposition.
I have seen folks advocate both ways; mixed at once and on a per use basis.Out of curiosity, what's the advantage of premixing the entire product vs mixing from concentrate every time? If convenience, I get that. I wonder, though, I thought developer breaks down once mixed.
What type of processor do you use? Is it a job type? Tanks like the Paterson need more chemicals for each 35mm roll and it would make the one shot approach not convenient. C41 is designed for replenishment, so you can reuse it without losing consistency in your results. With 2,5L kit you can get way more than 20 rolls.Prices between the USA and UK will differ, but I always buy a 2.5 litre kit sold under the Rollie Digibase lable. For consistancy in development I always process on the 'Use once and throw away principal'. If I process 2 x 35mm films I can get 20 films out of the kit which costs £39, so that is just under £2 per film (250ccc of developer). If I process a single film (150cc) I can get 16 films which obviously costs more but that is worth it to get the consistency of colour.
The full kit when diluted is initially stored in 4 x 500cc glass bottles, 2 x 150cc and 2 x 100cc bottles. (all with screw caps) Even after 3-4 months there is absolutely no change in colour of the chemicals, almost certainly due to the way of storage. Before the bottles are sealed the chemicals are warmed up in a microwave and the caps screwed on. As the contents cool down the seal given by the caps ensures that the cooling effect forms a partial vacuum so delaying any decomposition.
glad i could help@jnanian good point.
Photo waste is free here in so-cal for households, up to a point that I'll never reach. You need to leave it in the container you transport it in tho. Gas driving to the location is not!
I'll need to estimate my wash volume per cycle. I have no idea what we pay for water per gallon. In CA it's not cheap.
Out of curiosity, what's the advantage of premixing the entire product vs mixing from concentrate every time? If convenience, I get that. I wonder, though, I thought developer breaks down once mixed.
Table 1-3 Storage Times for KODAK FLEXICOLOR
Mixed Solution (Fresh)
Tanks with Floating Covers / Full Stoppered Glass Bottles
Developer or Developer
Replenisher 6 weeks / 4 weeks
Bleach III Replenisher 8 weeks / 8 weeks*
Other Solutions 8 weeks / . 8 weeks
* Because aeration is beneficial to Bleach III Replenisher, do not use floating lids.
For best results, do not use KODAK FLEXICOLOR or EKTACOLOR
solutions stored longer than the times given in the table below.
Mixed Solutions
Solution in Processor–No Operation / Replenisher in Covered Tank
FLEXICOLOR Developer LORR 1 week / 4 weeks
EKTACOLOR RA Developer RT 1 week / 6 weeks
EKTACOLOR PRIME Developer LORR 1 week / 6 weeks
All other FLEXICOLOR and
EKTACOLOR solutions 2 weeks / 8 weeks
Out of curiosity, what's the advantage of premixing the entire product vs mixing from concentrate every time? If convenience, I get that. I wonder, though, I thought developer breaks down once mixed.
What type of processor do you use? Is it a job type? Tanks like the Paterson need more chemicals for each 35mm roll and it would make the one shot approach not convenient. C41 is designed for replenishment, so you can reuse it without losing consistency in your results. With 2,5L kit you can get way more than 20 rolls.
I agree and would only add; PET soda bottles do a great job. They are made to seal in carbonation so they work fantastic. I collect them all of the time. Free is good.
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