Cross process C-41 film stand developed in Rodinal (B&W chemistry)

[StoneNYC]

To late, but they came out OK, The film came out of a baby rollei that refuses to function the shutter worked two times and than it stopped again, so I have two pictures, asa was set on 125 , The whole film still looks brown and I couldn't get it straight in the scanner -127 film- but this is it and I like it. No post proces

View attachment 67119

Good job... yea, the extra exposure compensation is mainly because of the orange mask which messes up the exposure levels, its more than than anything, if there were no orange mask I think you wouldn't have to compensate...

 

[StoneNYC]

I've got a bunch of gold 200 and superia in the fridge that probably will never get used... anyone ever tried to print through the orange with an enlarger? Hmm I wonder what different filters on the lens would do?

Edit... actually now that I think about it, I wonder what the orange would do! I usually print on VC paper and the orange might block virtually all of the blue light. Probably end up with grade 00 prints....??

As I mentioned... I think that's why you have to over expose 2 stops in order to compensate fore the orange mask.

 

[StoneNYC]

ok heres a few new ones

 

[case-ie]

ok heres a few new ones

View attachment 67140 View attachment 67141 View attachment 67142 View attachment 67143

They look nice Stone, especially in tonality, sharpness is less than in B&W straight.
I cross processed a fuji superia 200 -lighted at 200- for 1 hour in 1:100 rodinal, Pictures where taken with an Olympus XA2. The vintage look they have is the only reason why I would use this process so I cross back to straight black and white.

Kees.

 

[StoneNYC]

They look nice Stone, especially in tonality, sharpness is less than in B&W straight.
I cross processed a fuji superia 200 -lighted at 200- for 1 hour in 1:100 rodinal, Pictures where taken with an Olympus XA2. The vintage look they have is the only reason why I would use this process so I cross back to straight black and white.

Kees.

View attachment 67217 View attachment 67218

Not bad at all, hmm maybe I'll try at one stop instead of two and see what happens, yes it's the vintage look that is the reason. I agree.

I really like the first one a lot.


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[scheimfluger_77]

New Question ... these are 4 un-cropped images, scanned, does anyone know if the sprocket shadow is due to the old camera I'm using, or is this an effect of stand developing? (I've never used the Zeiss Ikon Contina Matic II before this test and never stand developed either).

Thanks...

View attachment 63685 View attachment 63686 View attachment 63687 View attachment 63688

Love the tones and grain in the first one. I have some Agfa portrait 160 220 I think I'll try this way. One with coffee and one with Rodinal.

 

[StoneNYC]

Love the tones and grain in the first one. I have some Agfa portrait 160 220 I think I'll try this way. One with coffee and one with Rodinal.

Enjoy, look forward to the results.

 

[DesertGeoff]

Hi everyone, I've read this thread before, but this is my first time actually trying it (a couple years later). I've been in nursing school the last couple years, but I just graduated and now I've got some free time to play with photography again.
Right now, I've got a Portra 160 color film shot @ 160 that's in the tank, stand developing for 3hours in 1:100 Rodinal 20C. If I understood the thread correctly, when stand developing color films in BW chemicals you should push the film 2 stops, (so instead of developing the box speed at 1hour, I will be developing for 3hours total) if it wasn't already shot 2 stops under before development.
I'll be back from the gym to agitate half way and will let you guys know if anything turns out.
Geoff.

 

[LAG]

Hi everyone, I've read this thread before, but this is my first time actually trying it (a couple years later). I've been in nursing school the last couple years, but I just graduated and now I've got some free time to play with photography again.
Right now, I've got a Portra 160 color film shot @ 160 that's in the tank, stand developing for 3hours in 1:100 Rodinal 20C. If I understood the thread correctly, when stand developing color films in BW chemicals you should push the film 2 stops, (so instead of developing the box speed at 1hour, I will be developing for 3hours total) if it wasn't already shot 2 stops under before development.
I'll be back from the gym to agitate half way and will let you guys know if anything turns out.
Geoff.

I am new to this forum, and I also arrive to late to this thread, but for what it is worth, when I cross C-41 films with B&W chemicals, there are three things (exp/dev/fix) that I do to get better negatives (look out! ... for me!!!):

Exp: I use the film 1 stop under box speed
Dev: between developer & fixer, I use one-shot povidona yodada (50% with water) - don't know those words in english -
Fixer: I double the estimated fixer time

In my opinion a stand (or semi) development will bring an excessive compensating effect, with very low contrast, though I must admit I've never did it.

 

[DesertGeoff]

I am new to this forum, and I also arrive to late to this thread, but for what it is worth, when I cross C-41 films with B&W chemicals, there are three things (exp/dev/fix) that I do to get better negatives (look out! ... for me!!!):

Exp: I use the film 1 stop under box speed
Dev: between developer & fixer, I use one-shot povidona yodada (50% with water) - don't know those words in english -
Fixer: I double the estimated fixer time

In my opinion a stand (or semi) development will bring an excessive compensating effect, with very low contrast, though I must admit I've never did it.

Thank you for your help! Yes, this has been my experience too! My film came out very thin and washed out with low contrast, loss of shadow detail plus halo-effects, but the midtones were okay.
I will try your tips next time I plan to cross process.
I think not compensating for the EI by two stops under for the stand development is what ruined the film -because I have successfully cross processed Portra 160 before with the normal development process.
These are the scans alternating edited and the unedited -scanned in color:

Originally, I did 1:100 for 3 hours with 3x3 agitations, but next time I have film that's already shot at box speed, I will try a 1:50 solution for 1 hour with 1 or 2 agitations.
I think maybe increasing my developing dilution or decreasing my development time will help with the contrast and film density.
Side note: yes my developer is still new, I have only had it a couple months. I use it as a one shot (no reusing), and ive only done two or three rolls with the original bottle, so its still fresh.