How do the negatives look? Are they really thick?
You say the last few prints were grey without strong blacks; did the initial prints with the new bulb look ok?
If so, then it's probably a problem of developer exhaustion.
1:8 is a lot of dilution for Dektol, it's usually used at 1:2 or sometimes 1:3
You say the last few prints were grey without strong blacks; did the initial prints with the new bulb look ok?
If so, then it's probably a problem of developer exhaustion.
1:8 is a lot of dilution for Dektol, it's usually used at 1:2 or sometimes 1:3
At a dilution of 1:8, which is approximately 3x weaker than 1:3, your soup will only last for 1/3 the square inches of developing as mentioned on the instruction sheet. I think
Not necessarily 1:8 but I think both 1:7 and 1:9.
Here on apug itself. 1:9 referencing Ansel and 1:7 as recommendation
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Kodak's datasheet indicates that Dektol is good for approximately 32 8x10 sheets per liter at their recommended dilution (1:2)
So, that would be 32 sheets per .5 liter of stock solution. A liter at 1:8 might be good for as few as 4 8x10 sheets, if I'm doing the math right. Also, at 30C the developer will oxidize faster.
You may want to mix the working solution with chilled water, or possibly even use the tray in a chilled water bath. Or else dilute less and get used to really fast developing times.
Reference pdf here;
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/e103cp/e103cp.pdf
Right, I did use this a couple of weeks after I had made the working solution so maybe temperature had effect on oxidation.
What is the LPD dev that you refer to? would Kodak still be making the tropical developers you refer to?
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The developer was not only overly dilute, but two weeks after mixing the working solution you are lucky it had any life left at all. It should be diluted 1+2 or 1+3 IMMEDIATELY PRIOR TO USE!
Try reading the Kodak directions for Dektol rather than items on here referring to using the developer for processes different from those for which it was designed.
Aside from everyone else mentioned here, I can only suggest trying different light with the appropriate grade filter. When I started contact printing my 4x5, I used a YN-560 flash and a Rosco Skelton's Exotic Sangria filter to approximate Grade 3 printing. I used a manual remote trigger and flashed into a Flashbender, bounced off he white wall. 9 pops at 1/32 power was usually about right for grade 3. Due to the diffusion, the grade was between 2 and 3, so it worked out.
With the Ilford filters, I got better more accurate results. That may help you. I hope it does.
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