clean edges-masking - advice ?

[Tetium]

Hi everyone

I would like to ask you some advice and tips about how masking off the coating area of my prints.

I work on full sheets of Arches Platine (22” x 30”) and coating such large format with clean edges is quite a bit challenging for me… I want a nice and clean border around the sheet in order to let the deckeld edges blank.

I have tried different methods, but I’m stuck with never clean edges.

When I mask the border of the sheet with brown kraft masking tape or 3M blue tape, the sheet is severely deformed by the inner tension causing a catastrophic result.

Can you help me sharing some advice?
Many thanks !

 

[doughowk]

I just overlay the paper to be coated with a window mat the opening size of the negative. Its not perfect.

 

[Ian Leake]

Have you tried medical tape? It’s much softer and more flexible than masking tape

 

[Tetium]

I haven't tried yet the medical tape, were I live this kind of tape is indeed flexible but also very (very) tacky (ouch!)

The main problem I have with the masking tape system is that when the sheet is fully coated, the tensions in the paper make it completely warp.

 

[jeffreyg]

Try cutting a mask with black mat board and taping it to the outside of the glass of the printing frame with black masking tape. This has worked well for me.
http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[Dan Pavel]

Print the DN with a large black border.

 

[jim10219]

I coat the entire sheet, and then place a mask made out of card stock with the size of the final print cut out of the center, in between the negative and glass. When you develop it, the masked off area washes clear because it was never exposed to light. It also helps to reduce the risk of Newton rings from the glass laying directly on the negative, though I haven't really seen the effects of any Newton rings during alternative process contact prints, so I don't usually worry about them.

 

[Fraunhofer]

I coat the entire sheet, and then place a mask made out of card stock with the size of the final print cut out of the center, in between the negative and glass. When you develop it, the masked off area washes clear because it was never exposed to light. It also helps to reduce the risk of Newton rings from the glass laying directly on the negative, though I haven't really seen the effects of any Newton rings during alternative process contact prints, so I don't usually worry about them.

I do the same, using red card board for the mask. Very easy, very effective.

 

[Vaughn]

What process are you using? I realize some processes don't wash off, which is why much of the above advice may not work (masking optically rather than phsyically masking where the coating goes.) The info will also help me to figure out why you are having a problem with the paper deforming.

If you try the blue tape again, before you attach it to the paper, press the sticky side on your clothes many times. This will reduce the tackiness of the tape and make it easier to remove.

 

[Tetium]

Thank you for taking the time to help me.

What process are you using? I realize some processes don't wash off, which is why much of the above advice may not work (masking optically rather than phsyically masking where the coating goes.) The info will also help me to figure out why you are having a problem with the paper deforming.

I use the cyanotype process (Mike Ware's formula) with entire sheets of Arches Platine.
I would like a clean edges of 3/4" in order to emphasize the deckled paper,
but every time I tape the borders the paper become very wavy / wobbled / curled (sorry for my english) probably because of the different tensions exercised on the paper.