Cinestill DF96 monobath

[Brownie_Holiday]

Whoa! That's impressive.

 

[Huss]

Thanks for the kind remarks!

The agitation was performed in a circular figure eight pattern, 30 secs with my left hand, 30 secs with my right hand , back to left hand etc

I've used a lot of DF96 since April 2020. What I have learned is that DF96 is really susceptible to bromide drag if you follow Cinestill's instructions. You need to agitate more than the mfg recommends to consistently avoid bromide drag.
At my previous 70 degree intermittent/gentle agitation, the mfg recommends 10 sec continuous to start, then 5 secs every minute. I have added a couple of turns at the 30 sec mark to prevent drag.
But the continuous agitation method really seems the way to go.

Also (and I've mentioned this before), sediment will collect at the bottom of the container after multiple uses. I used to filter this out, but found that is not necessary. Unless you shake the container like a cocktail shaker before use, it remains on the bottom and does not affect development.

 

[Auer]

Unfortunately there was only 600ml left as I was on my 22nd roll from the bottle! (A mix of 24 and 36 exp rolls).

Quite a bit, taking it to the next level. And here I am, quitting at 16 rolls like a good boy.

 

[Huss]

Quite a bit, taking it to the next level. And here I am, quitting at 16 rolls like a good boy.

It was a mix of 24 and 36 exp rolls, so I'd guess maybe 17 rolls if they were all 36exp film.

 

[Brownie_Holiday]

It was a mix of 24 and 36 exp rolls, so I'd guess maybe 17 rolls if they were all 36exp film.

I've been wondering about that. Is it a matter of surface area? For example, is one roll of 36 exposure 135 similar to one roll of 12 exposure 120? There has to be some method to determine that since they're not all equal. Seems like saying "16 rolls" has got to be an average.

 

[Huss]

I've been wondering about that. Is it a matter of surface area? For example, is one roll of 36 exposure 135 similar to one roll of 12 exposure 120? There has to be some method to determine that since they're not all equal. Seems like saying "16 rolls" has got to be an average.

They say 16+ rolls, and show on their site picures odf 36exp 35mm film.

Either way I test it with the cut off film leader to make sure it is still good before developing the film roll.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I've been wondering about that. Is it a matter of surface area? For example, is one roll of 36 exposure 135 similar to one roll of 12 exposure 120?

Exactly that. A "roll" for chemical exhaustion purposes is generally 80 square inches, equivalent to a 135-36, 120 roll, four 4x5 sheets, or a single 8x10 sheet (those aren't exactly equal, as Kodak's replenishment numbers for Flexicolor recognize, but they're close enough for most purposes). There are actually a couple more variables; what really matters is how much halide gets reduced to image silver. A fully fogged roll takes more out of the developer, one that was underexposed by three stops takes a good bit less (and vice versa relative to the fixer component of a monobath) -- but you can average enough stuff out to figure that 16 rolls of 135-36, or sixteen rolls of 120 (doesn't matter if they're 16, 12, 10, 9, or 8 exposures, it's the same film and approximately the same exposed area), or 64 4x5 sheets or 16 8x10 sheets will be about the same amount of load on your chemicals.

 

[ChristopherCoy]

This is interesting. I've heard the term "monobath" here and there, but never really researched it. Valerie gifted me an unopened bottle of Cinestill yesterday, so I'm looking into it. It looks like a really contrasty developer. Almost too harsh for me. It would be a "specific roll" kinda thing if I were to use it.,

 

[Auer]

This is interesting. I've heard the term "monobath" here and there, but never really researched it. Valerie gifted me an unopened bottle of Cinestill yesterday, so I'm looking into it. It looks like a really contrasty developer. Almost too harsh for me. It would be a "specific roll" kinda thing if I were to use it.,

Once you open it, you got 2 months to use it.
It's not that contrasty at all when not pushing anything.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Like any developer, you can pull or push with Df96. You adjust this mainly with temperature, because what you're actually adjusting is the ratio of developing rate vs. fixing rate -- developer warmer, you get more development before the fixer takes away the halide, agitate more and you get more fixing action (at the expense of development). There's a chart on the Cinestill web site that covers this, but here's a quick example of "not too much contrast" in Df96:

Kiev 4, Jupiter-8 50mm f/2, Eastman XX, Df96.

 

[Brownie_Holiday]

First shot out my 1941 Argus model AA. I bought the camera for $5.50 because it had a crack in the Bakelite body. The seller told the story that it was used by a GI in WWII and that's how it got cracked. Maybe, but like I always say, "Buy the camera, not the story."

I repaired the body it with epoxy, disassembled the lens/shutter assembly to access both sides of the two lens groups for cleaning and put it back together. Heavy vignette, with modern gear I'd be bitching, with this camera I think it's fitting and I like it.

P1031537 by telecast, on Flickr

 

[Brownie_Holiday]

Another shot from the same camera. My favorite store...

P1031567 by telecast, on Flickr

 

[Huss]

Chinon Bellami, TriX, DF96 Monobath

 

[Huss]

Leica M7, ZM 50 1.5, Efke KB50 @ 20, DF96

"Bad Dog"

 

[Huss]

Leica M7, ZM 50 1.5, Efke KB50 @ 20, DF 96

 

[Huss]

Pentax LX, SMC-M 40mm 2.8, Ilford Pan F 50, Cinestill DF96

 

[Huss]

While the pic above came out well, most on the roll had that typical dingy/underdeveloped look that I've seen when I develop Ilford Pan F 50 in Cinestill DF96. And from others who have posted their images using this combo.
And this last roll was with a fresh bottle and increased time.

So - Ilford Pan 50 and DF96 is not recommended. I had mentioned this earlier on in this thread but I thought I would revisit it one last time in case increased developing times would help.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Increased time correct underfixing, not underdevelopment. If you find a combination seems underdeveloped in Df96, you need to develop at higher temperature with the same agitation scheme. Say, 80F or so instead of 75F. Have a look at Cinestill's push/pull chart.

 

[md_photo]

I am getting a brown haze (ends up as brighter areas/glare on the scan) on a couple Tri-X rolls I developed recently. I am thinking its underfixing, may need to go longer than the 4+ minutes. I washed the development tank (lab box) and all its parts real well, I thought, and after researching this haze, it seems the negatives need more fixing.

 

[Donald Qualls]

If you have to refix film after taking it out of the tank from Df96, don't use the Df96 to do it; use regular rapid fixer. Otherwise, you'll develop the now-fogged halide that didn't get fixed away, and leave fog in your film.

 

[Huss]

I had actually increased the temp to 75, even tho Cinestill's instructions mention 70 @ 6 mins.
It just isn't working for me with Pan F, which is fine because realistically it can't be expected to give great results with every emulsion.

 

[Huss]

Pentax LX, SMC-M 40mm 2.8, Ilford Pan F50, Cinestill DF96

 

[Huss]

I am getting a brown haze (ends up as brighter areas/glare on the scan) on a couple Tri-X rolls I developed recently. I am thinking its underfixing, may need to go longer than the 4+ minutes. I washed the development tank (lab box) and all its parts real well, I thought, and after researching this haze, it seems the negatives need more fixing.

Never had any issues with TriX, it's kinda what this is meant for.
But I'm using a regular dev tank, and fill/empty the tank with tap water 13 times to fix it. Cinestill recommends (I think) 10 times.

 

[Auer]

Never had any issues with TriX, it's kinda what this is meant for.
But I'm using a regular dev tank, and fill/empty the tank with tap water 13 times to fix it. Cinestill recommends (I think) 10 times.

I do use a Lab-Box and wash the same way Huss does in his regular tank, 10 tap water fills and dumps, then one with distilled water and then drop the reel in a container with distilled water and photo-flo.
I only do the distilled water at the end as I have well water with a ton of minerals.

Never an issue with Tri-X.

 

[md_photo]

Ha I have been getting a bit lazy and washing only 6 times or so. And will use Ilford fixer to try and clean up the negatives that I want to rescue. Thanks folks for the advice!