@Huss:Also if you are using a Patterson or similar tank, you can keep the exposed film leader in the space between the outer lid and the funnel. Inspect this piece of film after the monobath processing. If it doesn't have sufficient density then your film might need to be salvaged. A short development in a regular developer or fresh monobath might help salvage the film.
Sadly, this "salvage" won't work with monobath. Because the soup develops and fixes concurrently, the only "salvage" available is additional fixing. Film that's underdeveloped in a monobath can't be fixed, because it's already been fixed, so to speak.
@Huss:
You can always do a clip test before pouring the monobath into the tank. Clip test will save you from losing the roll if the monobath is already dead or dying.
For my own work, I think Df96 and other monobaths will be relegated to special cases.
I was wondering if there's any film for which the monobath produces truly remarkable results that wouldn't be easily possible to get with regular developers.
So Arista EDU Ultra 200 turned DF96 bright blue. Washing the film in regular water before developing it is ok to get rid of this blue dye?
So Arista EDU Ultra 200 turned DF96 bright blue. Washing the film in regular water before developing it is ok to get rid of this blue dye?
It is probably rebranded Fompan film. No harm in giving it a pre-wash but some water absorbed by the film will seep into your monobath. If you develop this film regularly in the monobath, then it will progressively dilute the monobath.
It is probably rebranded Fompan film. No harm in giving it a pre-wash but some water absorbed by the film will seep into your monobath. If you develop this film regularly in the monobath, then it will progressively dilute the monobath.
nor will the amount of water that would carry over from a prewash -- you're only going to use the Df96 for 16 or so rolls, that won't result in enough dilution to be an issue.
I will warn, however, that .EDU Ultra/Fomapan 400 needs to be either exposed at EI 200 or processed as "Push +1" in Df96, else you'll get thin negatives. Doesn't seem to be a problem with the Fomapan 100, though.
That there'll be progressive dilution is irrefutable. Even assuming a conservative estimate of 5ml of carryover per roll, after ten or so rolls you would have added at least 50ml of water to the monobath. If the carryover is higher, say 10-15ml per roll, then the dilution is even more substantial.
Yeah, I've heard that EDU 400 needs to be exposed at 200. I noticed that with the 35mm version too.
The film I just used was EDU/Fomapan 200. I shot it at box speed - 200 - developed normally and the negatives are nice and properly dense. So it seems that EDU 200 is as 'fast' as EDU 400!
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