CHS 100 type II now available in 120

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ADOX Fotoimpex

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ADOX_CHS100II_Rollfilm.jpg

Just in time for the holliday season: CHS 100 type II is now available in 120 as well.

Europeans can shop directly: http://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/films/adox-chs-100-ii-120-medium-format-film.html

We introduced CHS 100 type II as a follow up to our beloved CHS 100 type I which Fotokemika took from us in 2012.
We have tried to match CHS 100 II as closely as possible to the old film featuring:

a rock solid classic emulsion system which has been out there for decades
a sensitization close the one of the old CHS 100
a single layer emulsion
the same base material including the option of reversal processing
an optimized backside coating to fully prevent light piping if the film is loaded in subdued light
a special anti halation layer between the emulsion and base for enhanced sharpness
a full set of formats from 35mm to ULF including 120
a state of the art cascade coating avoiding all problems associated with older CHS100 Type I productions

The new film is manufactured in Germany and thus upgraded to our professional line.

* Certain tips which we have published in combination with the older type I film like using only ion-exchanged water or prewatering the film before the devlopment are still a good thing to do but because of the more modern coating and hardening of the emulsion not required anymore.

Product page: http://www.adox.de/Photo/adox-films-2/adox-chs-100-type-ii/
 
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Just shot one of my few rolls left of the CHS 100 through my Rolleiwide just the other day. This is great news. Who will carry this in the U.S. and when?
 

TheToadMen

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This is great news. I'll include it in my next order for film !!!
 
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Just shot one of my few rolls left of the CHS 100 through my Rolleiwide just the other day. This is great news. Who will carry this in the U.S. and when?

Normally, the same places selling the other ADOX products right now.
 
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Normally, the same places selling the other ADOX products right now.

Perhaps. And I guess I could just watch Freestyle and B&H. Was just hoping the ADOX people might more details on that for us. Sometimes one place might stock before another too.
 

Pioneer

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And what were the characteristics that made this film unique in respect to other ISO 100/125 films that were on the market?
 
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And what were the characteristics that made this film unique in respect to other ISO 100/125 films that were on the market?

It's old school but better. Makes your photos sparkle and shine as never before (using the best developer and technique of course). Makes you a better photographer. Without this film you're not as good as you can be.
 

Pioneer

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It's old school but better. Makes your photos sparkle and shine as never before (using the best developer and technique of course). Makes you a better photographer. Without this film you're not as good as you can be.

:smile::D:laugh:

:whistling::blink::confused:
 
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I'm curious about how immune the polyester base is to film flatness issues resulting from reverse-curl feed paths.

Will those of you who use medium format cameras that route film from the supply spool around a roller that reverses (or substantially deviates from) its natural direction of curl please let us know how this film looks in the camera when advanced after sitting for a while on the previous frame? Standard, acetate-based 120 film takes a "set" on those feed rollers and then typically bulges toward the lens in a "stripe" of varying width. In my experience, the thicker a 120 acetate base is, the more of the frame is sharpness-compromised by such a bulge. With the lens removed, looking at a reflection of window blinds or other bright, parallel lines clearly shows the bulge. Depending on ambient environmental conditions, acetate can take a "set" in as little as 30 seconds.

In theory, polyester should be immune to such bulging. I'd greatly appreciate those of you with Hasselblad, Mamiya, Bronica, etc. SLRs, all of which reverse curl film in their backs, posting (either here or in another appropriate forum) about your observations concerning CHS 1-- Type II in this regard. Thank you in advance.
 
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ADOX Fotoimpex

ADOX Fotoimpex

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And what were the characteristics that made this film unique in respect to other ISO 100/125 films that were on the market?

There are three things which make this film unique:

1) The old school curve with a distinct shoulder in the highlights making it very tolerant against overexposure and giving this extra definition in the sky areas or on the brides dress
2) The old school orthhopanchromatic sensitization with a gap at green allowing clouds to separate from the sky or lips from a (white) face
3) Two Anti-halation layers one inbetween the emulsion and the base and one on the backside yielding superior sharpness (together with the classical cubic grains)

Next to this it has a PET base which is good for 500 years.

If you shoot CHS 100 against a modern film like Tmax or Delta you will see the difference in the images immediately.

The PET curl is only very slight due to the effective NC layer on the backside.

Best Regards,

Mirko
ADOX

http://www.adox.de/Photo/adox-films-2/adox-chs-100-type-ii/
 

Xmas

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I'm curious about how immune the polyester base is to film flatness issues resulting from reverse-curl feed paths.

Will those of you who use medium format cameras that route film from the supply spool around a roller that reverses (or substantially deviates from) its natural direction of curl please let us know how this film looks in the camera when advanced after sitting for a while on the previous frame? Standard, acetate-based 120 film takes a "set" on those feed rollers and then typically bulges toward the lens in a "stripe" of varying width. In my experience, the thicker a 120 acetate base is, the more of the frame is sharpness-compromised by such a bulge. With the lens removed, looking at a reflection of window blinds or other bright, parallel lines clearly shows the bulge. Depending on ambient environmental conditions, acetate can take a "set" in as little as 30 seconds.

In theory, polyester should be immune to such bulging. I'd greatly appreciate those of you with Hasselblad, Mamiya, Bronica, etc. SLRs, all of which reverse curl film in their backs, posting (either here or in another appropriate forum) about your observations concerning CHS 1-- Type II in this regard. Thank you in advance.

I found the thinner PET film better (YMMV) but the effect is also temperature and time dependent if you are suffering you need to think about a straight path camera or roll film back.

I only load the film backs to the arrows clip on back and wind to 1 while shooting...
 

JPD

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Finally! :w00t: I loved the old Efke emulsion, but hated the coating faults and curl, but the much improved Adox CHS II should take care of that. :cool:

It will be interesting to experiment to find the correct time in my standard developer Agfa 17, and I will have to study the negatives very closely, because of the great exposure latitude this film has. One stop over or under doesn't make much difference. :D

I can't wait to load a Rollei with it, but it should also be an excellent film to use in box and toy cameras.
 
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I found the thinner PET film better (YMMV) but the effect is also temperature and time dependent if you are suffering you need to think about a straight path camera or roll film back.

This has been my solution. After seeing the curl with my own eyes on film left in a Yashica Mat-124G for a couple of weeks, my next two 120 roll cameras have been a Fujifilm GF670 folder and a Mamiya C330S TLR. Both have reel-to-reel straight film paths. I can now leave partial rolls for extended periods in those two cameras without a problem.

People often complain that the Mamiya TLRs are bigger than the Rolleiflex TLRs. And they certainly are...

:wink:

Ken
 

Pioneer

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There are three things which make this film unique:

1) The old school curve with a distinct shoulder in the highlights making it very tolerant against overexposure and giving this extra definition in the sky areas or on the brides dress
2) The old school orthhopanchromatic sensitization with a gap at green allowing clouds to separate from the sky or lips from a (white) face
3) Two Anti-halation layers one inbetween the emulsion and the base and one on the backside yielding superior sharpness (together with the classical cubic grains)

Next to this it has a PET base which is good for 500 years.

If you shoot CHS 100 against a modern film like Tmax or Delta you will see the difference in the images immediately.

The PET curl is only very slight due to the effective NC layer on the backside.

Best Regards,

Mirko
ADOX

http://www.adox.de/Photo/adox-films-2/adox-chs-100-type-ii/

Thanks Mirko. I'll have to give it a shot. The overexposure forgiveness sounds promising as I want to give it a try in my Brownie and my Holga.
 

Roger Cole

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This has been my solution. After seeing the curl with my own eyes on film left in a Yashica Mat-124G for a couple of weeks, my next two 120 roll cameras have been a Fujifilm GF670 folder and a Mamiya C330S TLR. Both have reel-to-reel straight film paths. I can now leave partial rolls for extended periods in those two cameras without a problem.

People often complain that the Mamiya TLRs are bigger than the Rolleiflex TLRs. And they certainly are...

:wink:

Ken

Humm. I don't really "get" this. If I understand the explanation correctly my Mamiya 645 Pro does reverse curl like this but thinking about the inside of my Yashicamat it does NOT. (It's a 124, non-G.) I can't open it to see what we are talking about as it presently is loaded (with Portra 800.)
 

Xmas

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Humm. I don't really "get" this. If I understand the explanation correctly my Mamiya 645 Pro does reverse curl like this but thinking about the inside of my Yashicamat it does NOT. (It's a 124, non-G.) I can't open it to see what we are talking about as it presently is loaded (with Portra 800.)

Most TLRs impose a 90 degree turn between feed spool and picture frame in cold weather or over several weeks this can cause problems.

Some Rollis have glass plates...
 
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...in cold weather or over several weeks this can cause problems...
Depending on a particular camera's design, especially those which include reverse curls in the feed path, bulges (and accompanying unsharpness) can develop much quicker than that. My posts in this thread


cover the extensive tests I performed to objectively define the problem as well as how I cope with it. The discourse also reveals how intensely some people deny reality when confronted by facts. Reading that 14 year old exchange will hopefully preclude needing to repeat it in this thread. :smile:
 
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