Choosing a 6x6 system for renewed film shooting... opinions wanted.

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mshchem

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I have both a CB and CF 80mm. And as Sirius notes, the CB has 6 and the CF has 7 elements (80mm versions). If I was to have only one I would want a very nice example. The CB is a terrific kit lens.
 
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I have both a CB and CF 80mm. And as Sirius notes, the CB has 6 and the CF has 7 elements (80mm versions). If I was to have only one I would want a very nice example. The CB is a terrific kit lens.

Do you find the CB version focuses more smoothly or easier? Supposedly, they lightened the focus helical mechanism on the CB and the CFE lenses.
 

mshchem

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Do you find the CB version focuses more smoothly or easier? Supposedly, they lightened the focus helical mechanism on the CB and the CFE lenses.
I really like the way the CB handles. No weird accessory quick focus lever like whats available for the CF. I leave the CB on my 501cm works great.
 

mshchem

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Oh I fixed the light leak in my Mamiya 6mf bellows. Same spot as what's seen on other internet (photo net) sites. I used a tiny folded piece of 3M Super 33 electrical tape. Film tested!
 

M Carter

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Haven't read the entire thread, but just a thought on the Mamiya RF cameras, 6 or 7:

If I were buying one today (I shoot the RB but I can see the appeal of those cameras for things like travel), the very first thing I'd do is pack it up and send it to Bill Rodgers; he's factory trained and has all the mamiya rigs and jigs and collimators (his photos are a trip if you've ever seen a Mamiya repair manual, it's like "wow, there's all that stuff") and is the most like source to get a Mamiya as close to spec as possible, since he has a good idea of which parts wear and which issues are most likely to crop up. I'd do it soon, since (a) donor parts are going to get more scarce over time, and (b) the guy's not gonna be working forever.

Those are pricey cameras that could become pricey knick-knacks; I'd think that's the best shot at ensuring the longest life possible from one. These days, I'd consider it "cost of entry".
 

Sirius Glass

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Haven't read the entire thread, but just a thought on the Mamiya RF cameras, 6 or 7:

If I were buying one today (I shoot the RB but I can see the appeal of those cameras for things like travel), the very first thing I'd do is pack it up and send it to Bill Rodgers; he's factory trained and has all the mamiya rigs and jigs and collimators (his photos are a trip if you've ever seen a Mamiya repair manual, it's like "wow, there's all that stuff") and is the most like source to get a Mamiya as close to spec as possible, since he has a good idea of which parts wear and which issues are most likely to crop up. I'd do it soon, since (a) donor parts are going to get more scarce over time, and (b) the guy's not gonna be working forever.

Those are pricey cameras that could become pricey knick-knacks; I'd think that's the best shot at ensuring the longest life possible from one. These days, I'd consider it "cost of entry".

The OP's drug of choice is Hasselblad. Sorry, but you are late to the party.
 
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The OP's drug of choice is Hasselblad. Sorry, but you are late to the party.

Hahaha, yes, that's true, but the discussion about the Mamiya gear is useful, too. Honestly, since I enjoyed the Mamiya 6 that I had so much, I would have just purchased another one of those but the prices have gotten quite high and I have doubts about longevity with those cameras. At $1500 for the body and three lenses, I'm all in; at $3500-4000, I have to think about it HARD... Which I did, and decided that I wanted to get a body with an actual groundglass viewfinder, and to be honest, I really wanted to get my hands on a Hasselblad to work with ever since my early years in photography.

So, an Hasselblad is on it's way to me (a great condition 501C that had a CLA in December 2021) and a few lenses and film backs, etc., all coming.

I decided on the 50mm, 80mm, and 150mm for starters; just the 50mm and 80mm right now and the 150 in a month or so. Maybe the 180mm instead? I'll have to think it through. My thought was to get the 150mm and then the 250mm for a nice 4-lens kit. If not that, just the 180mm.

I half suspect I'll want the 100mm instead of the 80mm, but I'll start with the 80mm and then see how I feel after a bit of shooting.

I use AS compatible tripod heads on my tripods, so I need a recommendation for a suitable AS-compatible plate for the camera. I think I see one from Acratech and some goofy looking ones from China, but they are somewhat bid and aren't machined to mate with the bottom plate on the cameras. Any other suggestions?


---Michael
 

Sirius Glass

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Hahaha, yes, that's true, but the discussion about the Mamiya gear is useful, too. Honestly, since I enjoyed the Mamiya 6 that I had so much, I would have just purchased another one of those but the prices have gotten quite high and I have doubts about longevity with those cameras. At $1500 for the body and three lenses, I'm all in; at $3500-4000, I have to think about it HARD... Which I did, and decided that I wanted to get a body with an actual groundglass viewfinder, and to be honest, I really wanted to get my hands on a Hasselblad to work with ever since my early years in photography.

So, an Hasselblad is on it's way to me (a great condition 501C that had a CLA in December 2021) and a few lenses and film backs, etc., all coming.

I decided on the 50mm, 80mm, and 150mm for starters; just the 50mm and 80mm right now and the 150 in a month or so. Maybe the 180mm instead? I'll have to think it through. My thought was to get the 150mm and then the 250mm for a nice 4-lens kit. If not that, just the 180mm.

I half suspect I'll want the 100mm instead of the 80mm, but I'll start with the 80mm and then see how I feel after a bit of shooting.

I use AS compatible tripod heads on my tripods, so I need a recommendation for a suitable AS-compatible plate for the camera. I think I see one from Acratech and some goofy looking ones from China, but they are somewhat bid and aren't machined to mate with the bottom plate on the cameras. Any other suggestions?


---Michael

If you are doing portraits consider the 180 over the 150, otherwise jump to the 250 directly. Even with the 500 and the 2x extender, it is not long enough for wildlife such as picking a bison out in the distance. Yes you will eventually want the 100 especially since it is so sharp, but it is a little long for normal use.
 

Mike Lopez

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Haven't read the entire thread, but just a thought on the Mamiya RF cameras, 6 or 7:

If I were buying one today (I shoot the RB but I can see the appeal of those cameras for things like travel), the very first thing I'd do is pack it up and send it to Bill Rodgers; he's factory trained and has all the mamiya rigs and jigs and collimators (his photos are a trip if you've ever seen a Mamiya repair manual, it's like "wow, there's all that stuff") and is the most like source to get a Mamiya as close to spec as possible, since he has a good idea of which parts wear and which issues are most likely to crop up. I'd do it soon, since (a) donor parts are going to get more scarce over time, and (b) the guy's not gonna be working forever.

Those are pricey cameras that could become pricey knick-knacks; I'd think that's the best shot at ensuring the longest life possible from one. These days, I'd consider it "cost of entry".
You had me at Bill Rodgers. But I bet we're talking about 2 different guys with that name:

http://www.billrodgersrunningcenter.com/privacypolicy.html
 

mshchem

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I have (as of today) 3 perfectly functional Mamiya 6 MF bodies so I'm set, I think these will outlast me. If I could only have one medium format camera it would be a Hasselblad hands down. The electronic cameras are too darn confusing and then there's the battery. I think the little batteries are the real weak link. 10 years from now the little button cells will be very hard to find.
 

Sirius Glass

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I have (as of today) 3 perfectly functional Mamiya 6 MF bodies so I'm set, I think these will outlast me. If I could only have one medium format camera it would be a Hasselblad hands down. The electronic cameras are too darn confusing and then there's the battery. I think the little batteries are the real weak link. 10 years from now the little button cells will be very hard to find.

Button, button, who has the button?
 

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Nothing is more satisfying than pulling a PerkeoII from your tight jeans pocket and making a great B&W picture.
 

Donald Qualls

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10 years from now the little button cells will be very hard to find.

That depends on the button cell and what level of voltage tolerance the camera's circuits have. A 4xLR44, at 6 to 6.2 V (depending if you buy the alkaline or silver oxide variety) can be replaced by two cells of suitably sized lithium primary cells (3 V per cell), or by a two cell lithium ion rechargeable with regulation built in (and still last about as well as silver oxide). A 3D printed cell carrier would adapt to the final size.

That said, I don't see button cells vanishing any time soon; there are still too many devices that would become noncompetitive with the added expense of rechargeable battery and management circuits, don't need or want the higher voltage of lithium coin cells -- alkaline button cells, at least, will be around for a good while.
 

M Carter

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I have (as of today) 3 perfectly functional Mamiya 6 MF bodies so I'm set, I think these will outlast me. If I could only have one medium format camera it would be a Hasselblad hands down. The electronic cameras are too darn confusing and then there's the battery. I think the little batteries are the real weak link. 10 years from now the little button cells will be very hard to find.

Far as MF goes, I'm perfectly happy with my RB and lenses - that was my "if I were looking for a 6 or 7" post. I could se grabbing one of the big Fuji RF's someday though, just for fun...
 

mshchem

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Far as MF goes, I'm perfectly happy with my RB and lenses - that was my "if I were looking for a 6 or 7" post. I could se grabbing one of the big Fuji RF's someday though, just for fun...
I have a couple 6x9 Fujis these replaced my toting around a RZ67. I love these cameras for street photos. Absolutely simple to use. Nothing to confuse me. However with a RB or a Blad you get proper interchangeable lenses, backs etc.
 

mshchem

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That depends on the button cell and what level of voltage tolerance the camera's circuits have. A 4xLR44, at 6 to 6.2 V (depending if you buy the alkaline or silver oxide variety) can be replaced by two cells of suitably sized lithium primary cells (3 V per cell), or by a two cell lithium ion rechargeable with regulation built in (and still last about as well as silver oxide). A 3D printed cell carrier would adapt to the final size.

That said, I don't see button cells vanishing any time soon; there are still too many devices that would become noncompetitive with the added expense of rechargeable battery and management circuits, don't need or want the higher voltage of lithium coin cells -- alkaline button cells, at least, will be around for a good while.
Is there a lithium option for 2 silver or alkaline LR44 ( Eveready 357) ?? A quality lithium cel lasts a long time. I will investigate. Good information, thanks.
 

Donald Qualls

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There are some lithium cells that are drop-in replacement for two button or coin alkaline cells. I'd have to dig through a dimension table to tell for sure what would replaced two LR44, though.

Okay, looks like you'd need CR11108, aka CR1/3N. 3V Lithium the same size as a stack of two LR44/L76/357 alkaline or silver oxide cells.
 

Sirius Glass

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My Hasselblad only uses a battery for the light meter. No buttons needed here.
 

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I hope it works out for you. I had a Hasselblad for a year and it was a total pain, the body and lenses continually jammed and either wouldn't fire or the shutter stuck open. I sold it and have a Fuji rangefinder that I'm much happier with. It works well and produces great images.
 

mshchem

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I hope it works out for you. I had a Hasselblad for a year and it was a total pain, the body and lenses continually jammed and either wouldn't fire or the shutter stuck open. I sold it and have a Fuji rangefinder that I'm much happier with. It works well and produces great images.
Blads need maintenance and routine exercise. Lubricant gets gummy over time.
 

mshchem

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My Hasselblad only uses a battery for the light meter. No buttons needed here.
I've got the meter prism with the incident light meter dome. That meter has way too many functions. If I used it everyday maybe I would have better luck. I mostly use the waist level finder with the built-in flip up magnifier.
I need to go to Hasselblad school :smile:
 

Sirius Glass

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It sure does sound like you had a camera in dire need of service. :blink:

In my 30+ years as a commercial photographer shooting Hasselblads, the worst I would encounter (on jobs) were flash syncs burning out on C lenses. I have had the occasional lens jam when I failed to remove a tube or lens in proper sequence, but no other time. My gear goes in for maintenance when it is due. Light seals, body CLAs and flash syncs. Today I still use a few CF lenses with digital backs because they are that good. I built my career shooting Hasselblad gear. My other medium format film gear could not take the beating that constant setting up and breaking down gear can cause. Having to train assistants on how to do it all safely and quickly was always a PIA, but necessary. People need to learn how to care for gear. Not everyone that shoots a camera is technically oriented believe it or not.

I write this so others contemplating Hasselblad gear hears from someone that used the V system on an almost daily basis for decades. I continue to choose to use Hasselblad V lenses, viewfinders and film magazines with newer gear in the digital realm. IMO, you cannot go wrong with Hasselblad.

thumbs up.jpg
 

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It sure does sound like you had a camera in dire need of service. :blink:

Perhaps. It was certainly the least reliable camera I've ever owned. I've had Pentax 67 for 30 years and it just keeps on going through all weathers and places. It's been backpacked up lots of mountains and does a great job.
 

Sirius Glass

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Perhaps. It was certainly the least reliable camera I've ever owned. I've had Pentax 67 for 30 years and it just keeps on going through all weathers and places. It's been backpacked up lots of mountains and does a great job.

It sounds like you do not RTFM for cameras and it sounds like you suffer from Operator Assisted Failures known as ab OAF*. Any camera can be damaged or rendered useless by not RTFM. :wink:





* OAF: usage - The OAF did this or the OAF did that.
 

grat

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It sounds like you do not RTFM for cameras and it sounds like you suffer from Operator Assisted Failures known as ab OAF*. Any camera can be damaged or rendered useless by not RTFM. :wink:

Is the Hasselblad that tricky to use? I've heard that with the Kiev, you have have to be very careful about some operations or it goes *cruynch*.... But was unaware the Hasselblad was similarly delicate.

My Bronica is extremely rugged, and aside from electrical contact issues, could probably survive a drop onto anything softer than concrete-- not RTFM'ing can lead to unexpected behavior, but not a systems failure.
 
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