Choosing a 6x6 system for renewed film shooting... opinions wanted.

[RalphLambrecht]

Folks,

(This is a very long post, so I apologize in advance)...

I intend to get a 6x6 camera to use to complement the 6x17 camera that I recently purchased (plus the digital that I have been using exclusively for the past 12+ years, which currently is the Fuji GFX system).

I used to have a Mamiya 6MF body and the three lenses and I LOVED it. It is the camera that I most regret selling these days. It was relatively light and compact (collapsable lens mount) and the lenese appeared to be really, really sharp. I originally got it as a "handheld" complement to the LF and ULF gear that I was shooting at the time. Overall, I thought it was a great camera system and I will happily re-purchase that again if that ends up being my decision based on feedback from the rabble.

However, since I am starting at scratch, I thought I should consider the other viable 6x6 systems out there. I think that would be the Hasselblad 500CM and lenses and the Bronica SQ-A and lenses. The Rolli isn't reliable enough in my thinking. Too expensive as well.

Both of these systems are so much cheaper than they were 20 years ago (and seemingly, the Mamiya 6 gear has gotten much more expensive relatively speaking)... All of these were really top-grade gear with high prices when new, so the perofrmance of any one system is probably going to be excellent.

I am thinking of a body, a back or two for the H or B systems, and maybe three lense for starters; 50mm, 75/80mm, and 150mm. I may never go beyond that.

However, I have a few concerns/thoughts I wanted opinions on...

1. Longevity. The Bronica and the Mamiya both use electronic shutters. Are we reacing the end of life for this equipment an will there be any paths to repair? The Bronica gear is pretty inexpensive so I guess you just buy another one and continue until that one fails... and repeat. The Mamiya is not so cheap, but you could do the same thing. Is there an inherent aspect to the electronic shutters (like some rubber part or some piece of electrical winding) that inherently has a life to it and that life is absolute such that in another 10 years, ony 5% of the lenses from those companies will still be functional?

The Hasselblad is mechanical and will probbaly require more CLA than the others, but at least those should be possible to do that. Im not clear on whether the M or B systems have a lot of forward support and longevity potential.

2. Lens performance. I'm not a real pixel-peeper in this respect, but I would not want to put together a system only to discover that the one lens I like to use the most is a bit of a dog... That lens in 6x6 is probably going to be the 50mm. (I'd guess it was with the M6 set I had, with the 50, 75, and then the 150 in far third place). The Mamiya 50mm was really excellent. I was very happy with it, and my thinking is that it could be sharper into the corners than the other two because they didn't need to make it nearly as retrofocal to fit on that camera (no mirror box to avoid). I've seen some comments that the CZ 50mm lense is really excellent and also some comments that the Bronica 50mm isn't their best lens...

I suspect that at 80mm and longer, they all are really close to equal in performance... it's only at the wide end that I suspect the differences may occur.

3. Camera factors. I know the Mamiya 6 pretty well No nonsense, and seemingly reliable (with that concern about the electronics in the future). What about the B and the H systems? The Bronica feels a little more workman-like but the Hasselblad has had millions of weddings and other shoots to prove that they are a good, reliable system. Is there anything about these that I should know about? What about the film backs? I know the H should have matching serial numbers... anything like that for the B system?

I consider changing film mid-roll to be a major asset, so that is in favor of the H and B systems. I also would prefer to have a TTL fiewfinder, also in favor of the H and B systems.

4. Cost. The Bronica wins this one hands-down. Second is the H, and last appears to be the Mamiya system, but of course, the H could go higher when considering more modern lenses, backs, etc. I'm not talking any exotics, just the shooting quality gear. One gotcha on this might be the Hasselblad SWC body/lens, which I could see myself wanting to get at some point if I did have a H system. It's a rabbit hole, folks. The Mamia system is small and I'd run out of gear to buy quickly.

The cost of putting together one of these isn't really a big deal for any of them, but I'd prefer to spend less on the gear and more on film and travel.

5. Intangables. So what else is there? I am familiar with the B system from my years working at a camera shop in HS and college. The owner used an SQ-A for weddings, etc. I've certainly seen plenty of H gear over the years but never shot with any. It was too costly to consider back then.

I intend to use an external meter, so I don't need the most modern body or the pentaprism. I would like a gridded screen. Is there a marked difference in groundglass performance between the B and the H?

Another thing comes to mind... those ding-dang filters on the H system; ugh.

Pride of ownership? Not sure that matters much to me at all, but pride in high quality craftmanship? YES. I think all three meet that requirement.

-----

Many thanks for reading and comments on the merits of one vs. another system are appreciated while I try to make a buying decision.


---Michael

Has all of this scare has gotten a lot less expensive these days, I suggest to get them to me at six set with three lenses back and complimented the hassle of 500 and the Sims set of focal lengths (50/80/150) as a goal to collect over the next few years. You'll be very happy with that!

 

[Sirius Glass]

I use B60 whenever they are available. I use Hasselblad, Heliopan and B+W, used when I can find them. If they are not available in that size I use 67mm filters with a step up B50 to 67mm adapter and I have a 62mm to 67mm adapter for my Nikons.

B60

KR 1.5 [UV type]
Polarizing
Yellow K2
Orange
R2 [R25A]
Blue 80B
Sotar I, II, & III​

67mm

Yellow-Green
R23
R29
R72​

 

[Light Capture]

Hasselblad is still the best choice here with your parameters. Almost everything is still serviceable and any of the lenses will provide good results.
There is no truly bad lens in the whole system. It goes from very good to excellent to stellar. Any 50mm they made will produce excellent results.
SWC can be added if needed. PME3 and newer prisms have extremely accurate metering if you need that. Metering knob is not that accurate in low light and reasonable in good light. There are 6x6 and 645 backs. 645 back will likely stay unused if there is no clear need for it's use.
It requires 90 degree prism for comfortable use.

50/80/150 as previously stated should cover all bases. If you need macro you can do any generation 120mm or get 180mm if you want stellar portrait lens / short tele (it will be good with teleconverter as well).
Alternative is to go to 60/100/180 but that costs much more and might make you get SWC or 40mm in addition.
Other option for tele is 250mm since they are really reasonably priced. In reality it's not that much longer than 150mm but needs 1-1.5m of extra distance.
Reach is nice if it suits your style. Negative with longer lenses is that you need good technique, higher shutter speeds to keep them sharp as with any other medium format systems. This is where 120 or 150 might come in handy.

Compared to any of the Mamiyas, Hasselblad is better with longer lenses.

In regards to filters C series 50, 60 and SWC use 63 series filters. 67mm filter will catch a couple of threads. It's not the exact thread but it works. 50mm vignettes soon. 67 to 77mm or cokin holder is recommended.
Most other C series lenses use Bay 50 filters and if B50 filters can't be found B50 to 52 or 58mm filter works well. Adapter is my preferred solution for all Hasselblad lenses where possible. My choice is Cokin P series or larger for bigger lenses (with some Singh Ray and others mixed in). Also have some 63 and Bay filters when it's needed to keep the size down without big filter adapters.

 

[Oren Grad]

Have you ever used Hasselblad V-system gear? If not: Fotocare still has some Hasselblad V-system equipment in its rental stock. Perhaps some other dealers do too. I'd recommend renting a body, one lens and a back for a week and giving it a good workout.

I had a 501C for a while, didn't get along with it. YMMV - obviously many here are happy with their Hasselblads. But it would be good to see for yourself if you can live with its quirks before making a big commitment.

 

[mshchem]

The Mamiya 6MF which you know well is a heck of a nice camera. A SLR is going to be a whole different experience. I agree that it would be nice to try before buying.

 

[Neil Poulsen]

I had well equiped RB67 and Mamiya Universal Press systems. I also have an MF view camera system. The RB was in especially good condition, because I had had it completely serviced. Deciding to cut back by one system, I kept the Mamiya Universal Press.

It can be used handheld, yet it can also be used by composing and focusing directly on the ground glass. It has inter-changeable backs, which is essential for me. These backs are known to keep fillm especially flat. It's part of a system, so there are useful accessories available. One nice thing about range finders, one can see the subject at the instant of exposure. It's easy for me to adjust the range finder system.

I have 50mm, 65mm, 100mm f2.8, 150mm, and 250mm f5 lenses for mine. The 50mm is based on a Biogon design (as I understand it) and is known to be especially sharp. It also covers 6x9. The 100mm f2.8 is also known to be a very sharp lens. I doubt if either are multi-coated; this is not an issue for me.

Mamiya Universal equipment can be found at very good prices.

This system is kind of out of left field. But, it sure meets my needs.

 

[Paul Howell]

The issue at hand is 6X6, unless you have the mulitback with masks the most common backs for Mamiya are 6X9 and 6X7. I have Kowa which is 6X6 but usually shoot with my Universal as I prefer a 6X9 negative. Already mentioned the Mamiya C330 or 220, wide range of backs, not as much to go wrong.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Aside from weight, the Mamiya RB67 is an option here. Yep, it's a 6x7 (actually, it's an 8x8, that's why the body and lenses are so big and heavy), but I shoot 6x4.5, 6x6, 6x7, and have used a 6x9 back on mine. Anything that will mount to a 2x3 Graflok will work on it, and there are some accessories that replace the revolving back (the Polaroid back you can't get film for unless you're made of money, a couple different Instax backs). Lenses range from 50-500 mm plus a 37 mm fisheye, and the bellows focusing allows very close focus with the 140 and shorter lenses (there are extension tubes as well, you can go above 1:1 with a 90 mm). Two of the five available viewfinders have TTL metering and there's a motor drive 6x8 film back (for 220, but should be possible to convert or use 120 in it), but otherwise the camera is completely devoid of electronics.

Nope, can't have mine.

 

[Light Capture]

Have you ever used Hasselblad V-system gear? If not: Fotocare still has some Hasselblad V-system equipment in its rental stock. Perhaps some other dealers do too. I'd recommend renting a body, one lens and a back for a week and giving it a good workout.

I had a 501C for a while, didn't get along with it. YMMV - obviously many here are happy with their Hasselblads. But it would be good to see for yourself if you can live with its quirks before making a big commitment.

+1 on this.

Even though I recommended options for the Hasselblad system in earlier post based on serviceability and tons of options to configure system to ones liking, the way it operates is vastly different than Mamiya 6 you used before.
There is no guarantee you're going to like the system or keep liking it for a long time. That will depend on many factors.

In my case, I got all kinds of different systems to try and kept going back to Hasselblad. Mostly out of habit and simply knowing what the results will be beforehand due to familiarity with the equipment.
Using different systems and each one with it's own quirks gets me out of the comfort zone (call it muscular memory) and results are simply different.
Some quirks actually work well with personal shooting style but some are very detrimental, again personally, not as a rule for everyone.

Beside being so used to it, in my case, being able to pack it with a couple of lenses in the same bag that takes Nikon kit is a big plus. Hasselblad and similarly sized MF cameras are quite compact for the negative size.
Newer Hasselblad H system, RB67, RZ67 and some others don't pack that well in compact and mid-sized photo bags.

 

[Arthurwg]

You certainly don't need a Hasselblad system to acquire a SWC. The only part of that camera that is really a part of the rest of the system is the film back and insert. Everything else is unique to the SWC and except for the little optical viewfinder and back, fixed together.

The SWC was my first Hasselblad, but that led to....several more, plus several more lenses. The V-System is addicting, and IMHO, the best of the lot.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I considered Rollei and Hasselblad. I chose Hasselblad because of the availability of parts, service and the extensive system. Rollei has the bellows and movements, but there were other drawbacks. I have the 30mm Fisheye, the 38mm SWC, 50mm, 80mm, 150mm, 250mm, the 500mm and the 2XE extender, prism and multiple backs. I started buying Hasselblad equipment in 2007 and the prices were low then and have risen recently. If you buy Hasselblad equipment, you should later be able to get your money back or more assuming you do not drop it off a cliff. The Hasselblad V Series is smaller, more compact and lighter than the Bronica [as a teenager I was dying to be able to buy the Bronica S], Mamiya, or Rollei. If you do choose Hasselblad, you will just have to wait a little longer between buying the next lens, but not that much longer and you will be happier in the end.

I forgot the 100mm lens which is really sharp. 30mm Fisheye, the 38mm SWC, 50mm, 80mm, 100mm, 150mm, 250mm, the 500mm and the 2XE extender. Starting out I recommend the 50mm, 80mm and 250mm lenses OR 50mm or 60mm, 100mm, and 250mm lenses. The 60mm is too close to the 80mm [50/80 versus 60/80] and the 150mm is also too close to the 80mm [150/80 versus 250/80]. If you are doing portraits, I believe the 180mm is a better lens than the 150mm.

 

[Oren Grad]

I guess in light of the rest of the discussion I'll add that I also have substantial experience with Mamiya 6 and Mamiya C220. Don't need to say anything about the 6 as the OP has his own conclusions about that based on his experience. The Mamiya TLRs have their virtues, but the glass isn't in the same league as the Mamiya 6 lenses. The 55 in particular is hit-or-miss to get a decent sample, which still can't hold a candle to the 50 for the Mamiya 6.

 

[Michael Mutmansky]

Thanks for all the discussion everyone... there are always good thoughts on the APUG, er, Photrio group and I appreciate the input from everyone.

Oren asked whether I have used an H camera in the past... I have tested them out but never done any shooting with one. I have a lot of experience with different formats, though, including the M6 I mentioned, plus a Pentax 6x7 and also a Bronica system from many moons ago, not to mention a few 'flex cameras along the way; Mamiyaflex, Minoltaflex... I figure from watching some YT videos that I'll be able to slide into using an Hasselblad camera pretty easily. Really, after the use of LF and ULF gear, nothing comes off as anywhere nearly as complex or fiddly as using some of that gear.

My main reason for not going for the Mamiya 6 is the lack of the ground glass viewing. I want to be able to set up and be more deliberate with the shooting and that is a bit less natively suited with the Mamiya 6 camera. It is a great camera, though!

I don't shoot any portraits at all, but I was thinking about the 180mm vs. 150mm question and thinking that if I'm not limited, the option to a slightly longer lens would make sense. I will need to think through some of the focal length equivalencies a bit more. I also could see not getting an 80mm and getting a 100mm instead and then jumping up to 250mm. I'm positive of the 50mm though.

I've been reading about the mirror issue with longer lenses and wanted some feedback on what the condition is and how bad of a problem it is. I do find that I will use wider lenses and then longer lenses to isolate (if I have them) so I feel that the adjusted mirror in the later models might be worth considering, but that comes with a hefty pricetag... Anyone have opinions on the choice of a 500CM vs a 501CM?

 

[Paul Howell]

As you are in Northern Cal you might to look around to find a repair tech who services Hassy and ask which models are easiest to service in terms of available parts.

 

[Sirius Glass]

...
I've been reading about the mirror issue with longer lenses and wanted some feedback on what the condition is and how bad of a problem it is. I do find that I will use wider lenses and then longer lenses to isolate (if I have them) so I feel that the adjusted mirror in the later models might be worth considering, but that comes with a hefty pricetag... Anyone have opinions on the choice of a 500CM vs a 501CM?

I do not have the GLS since I have the Hasselblad 503 CX and, yes, I see a line at the top of the view finder with the 250mm lens and 500mm lens. The line does not appear in the photographs only the view finder, as expected because it is a mirror issue, and I do not even notice it any longer. It is a non issue as far as I am concerned. Until and unless I need to replace the CX, I will not consider thinking about the mirror image problem.

As you well know since you have been a member longer than I, the purpose of APUG Photrio is to enable GAS and acting on our impulses over logic and common sense.

 

[Oren Grad]

Anyone have opinions on the choice of a 500CM vs a 501CM?

IIRC the 501CM had the "Palpas" rear shutter coating that is notorious for deteriorating, may make shopping for one a bit trickier.

 

[african_jon]

Seawood in San Rafael (not to far from Sac) has both Bronica SQ AI and Hasselblads in stock at the moment if you want to fondle them? They will know of repair techs as well as they have been around since 1947. I went with the Bronica as the kit came with 2 lenses, prism finder and 3 backs for a third of what a Hassy and lens would cost. I really love the camera but have not used the Mamiya 6 or Hasselblad.

 

[Light Capture]

Thanks for all the discussion everyone... there are always good thoughts on the APUG, er, Photrio group and I appreciate the input from everyone.

Oren asked whether I have used an H camera in the past... I have tested them out but never done any shooting with one. I have a lot of experience with different formats, though, including the M6 I mentioned, plus a Pentax 6x7 and also a Bronica system from many moons ago, not to mention a few 'flex cameras along the way; Mamiyaflex, Minoltaflex... I figure from watching some YT videos that I'll be able to slide into using an Hasselblad camera pretty easily. Really, after the use of LF and ULF gear, nothing comes off as anywhere nearly as complex or fiddly as using some of that gear.

My main reason for not going for the Mamiya 6 is the lack of the ground glass viewing. I want to be able to set up and be more deliberate with the shooting and that is a bit less natively suited with the Mamiya 6 camera. It is a great camera, though!

I don't shoot any portraits at all, but I was thinking about the 180mm vs. 150mm question and thinking that if I'm not limited, the option to a slightly longer lens would make sense. I will need to think through some of the focal length equivalencies a bit more. I also could see not getting an 80mm and getting a 100mm instead and then jumping up to 250mm. I'm positive of the 50mm though.

I've been reading about the mirror issue with longer lenses and wanted some feedback on what the condition is and how bad of a problem it is. I do find that I will use wider lenses and then longer lenses to isolate (if I have them) so I feel that the adjusted mirror in the later models might be worth considering, but that comes with a hefty pricetag... Anyone have opinions on the choice of a 500CM vs a 501CM?

50/80 on Hasselblad feel natural to most people using them. 100mm is just slightly too long for general use. It beats all other lenses in IQ but I don't tend to pick it up. IQ is spectacular. If you're usually leaning towards wides in your work, you'll very likely find it awkward.
50 and 80mm simply work well with 6x6. Since you're not doing any portraits this might not be an issue at all. A couple of steps back and it results in the same FOV.
Other issue with 100mm is if intended use is landscapes, it's extremely sharp and that will reduce apparent DOF. With 100mm vs 80mm or 50mm it will be harder to reach hyperfocal distance if that matters to your personal style of shooting.

GMS (Gliding Mirror System) is important if you're going to use it exclusively with long lenses. There is a thin band on top of the image where it darkens a bit due to shorter mirror. Dark band grows with longer lenses but never found it too distracting.
Proper GMS implementation is only on 500ELX, 553ELX and 555ELD bodies (also on focal plane 200 and 2000 series). On 501CM and 503CW, mechanics are identical to non-GMS bodies and mirror slides on a small lever.
Other than this there are no benefits to these newer bodies. If you require motorized film transport in future, it will be 503CXi, 503CW, motorized bodies and 200/2000 series. CW winder for 503's is nice but flakey when it comes to reliability.

 

[jtk]

Linhof

 

[Michael Mutmansky]

GMS (Gliding Mirror System) is important if you're going to use it exclusively with long lenses. There is a thin band on top of the image where it darkens a bit due to shorter mirror. Dark band grows with longer lenses but never found it too distracting.
Proper GMS implementation is only on 500ELX, 553ELX and 555ELD bodies (also on focal plane 200 and 2000 series). On 501CM and 503CW, mechanics are identical to non-GMS bodies and mirror slides on a small lever.
Other than this there are no benefits to these newer bodies. If you require motorized film transport in future, it will be 503CXi, 503CW, motorized bodies and 200/2000 series. CW winder for 503's is nice but flakey when it comes to reliability.

OK, thanks for that info. I was under the impression that the 501CM and the 503CW also had that GMS system installed. At least that's what one web source indicated... So it sounds like there isn't much of a reason to go to the 501CM over a 501C or possibly even the 500CM from your description.

***EDIT*** I understand that you didn't claim that the GMS isn't installed, but that it is only a partial installation (with the original mirror size), so it may not really help much for longer lenses).

I want the newer focus screen, but I figure I don't necessarily want/need to buy based on that as long as the body can take a new screen. Mostly because I'd prefer a gridded screen and it probably wouldn't have that no matter what I get, so I'll probably need to purchase that seperately.

I also was hoping to get a newer body so it is a bit younger (the oldest 500cm's are 15+ years older than the 501xx series). Getting a 501xx model should do that, but I know there are a few compromises with going to the newer models (the shutter status window being missing is one of them)... I need to do a bunch of research on what else I give up when going to the 501xx cameras, I guess.

All of this has been really great feedback (from everyone) and I appreciate people spending time giving me theor knowledge and opinions.

 

[Sirius Glass]

50/80 on Hasselblad feel natural to most people using them. 100mm is just slightly too long for general use. It beats all other lenses in IQ but I don't tend to pick it up. IQ is spectacular. If you're usually leaning towards wides in your work, you'll very likely find it awkward.
50 and 80mm simply work well with 6x6. Since you're not doing any portraits this might not be an issue at all. A couple of steps back and it results in the same FOV.
Other issue with 100mm is if intended use is landscapes, it's extremely sharp and that will reduce apparent DOF. With 100mm vs 80mm or 50mm it will be harder to reach hyperfocal distance if that matters to your personal style of shooting.

GMS (Gliding Mirror System) is important if you're going to use it exclusively with long lenses. There is a thin band on top of the image where it darkens a bit due to shorter mirror. Dark band grows with longer lenses but never found it too distracting.
Proper GMS implementation is only on 500ELX, 553ELX and 555ELD bodies (also on focal plane 200 and 2000 series). On 501CM and 503CW, mechanics are identical to non-GMS bodies and mirror slides on a small lever.
Other than this there are no benefits to these newer bodies. If you require motorized film transport in future, it will be 503CXi, 503CW, motorized bodies and 200/2000 series. CW winder for 503's is nice but flakey when it comes to reliability.

I agree. The 100mm is a little long for normal use, so I still recommend the 50mm, 80mm and 250mm for the typical users.

 

[Alan Gales]

I used to own a 500/cm. It was a great camera. I had heard that they are a little difficult to load film into. I found that not to be true at all, at least for me. The focussing on the lenses was a little stiff. Sirius told me that was common. I do admit that I am nit picking here. You get used to it quick.

Mine had a Beattie Intenscreen as well as the original screen. The Beattie was a huge improvement. Others have told me that the later Hasselblad Acute Matte screens are even better so you might want to get a later model than the 500/cm. There is also that gliding mirror mentioned above.

I sold mine because I am more into large format photography and rather put my money there. I did replace it with a Mamiya C220f TLR. The 220 series is lighter than the 330 series. You do have to separately cock your shutter each time with the C220 than the C330. I'm used to cocking lens shutters with large format though. Mamiya TLR cameras and lenses are very good and very inexpensive compared to Hasselblad but the Hasselblad is much nicer. Being a TLR you have the same problem as you do with a Mamiya 6. I have an inexpensive paramender which raises the camera up off the tripod for taking the shot. This corrects the parallax problem.

There is of course Bronica. I don't know of anyone who repairs them anymore. Of course the cameras are cheap so you might buy several bodies in case one breaks.

A very good friend of mine owns a Rollei SL66. It's an excellent camera with excellent lenses. He tells me that parts are getting hard to find though..

I think Hasselblad would be your best choice if you have the coin.

 

[Light Capture]

OK, thanks for that info. I was under the impression that the 501CM and the 503CW also had that GMS system installed. At least that's what one web source indicated... So it sounds like there isn't much of a reason to go to the 501CM over a 501C or possibly even the 500CM from your description.

***EDIT*** I understand that you didn't claim that the GMS isn't installed, but that it is only a partial installation (with the original mirror size), so it may not really help much for longer lenses).

I want the newer focus screen, but I figure I don't necessarily want/need to buy based on that as long as the body can take a new screen. Mostly because I'd prefer a gridded screen and it probably wouldn't have that no matter what I get, so I'll probably need to purchase that seperately.

I also was hoping to get a newer body so it is a bit younger (the oldest 500cm's are 15+ years older than the 501xx series). Getting a 501xx model should do that, but I know there are a few compromises with going to the newer models (the shutter status window being missing is one of them)... I need to do a bunch of research on what else I give up when going to the 501xx cameras, I guess.

All of this has been really great feedback (from everyone) and I appreciate people spending time giving me theor knowledge and opinions.

It still works as GMS system but not as originally intended. My observation is that motorized bodies with GMS were upgraded and 200/2000 bodies were designed with GMS as a standard. They also have much refined mechanics compared to 500 mechanical bodies which didn't change much since the beginning when they were first introduced. These newly designed cameras were more expensive than mechanical bodies at the time and considered top of the line by Hasselblad.
What I call true GMS bodies, they have more complex mirror movement in several axes and that also reduces shake to some extent. Even though reduction can't be felt or heard, in general images show some improvement.

Mirror on 503CW is the same size with small cutout since that corner would interfere with mirror catch. 500ELX and newer motorized have different size of the mirror. 503CW and 501CM have spring leaf at the back of the mirror while older bodies have foam that acts as a spring to keep mirror in the right position. This foam deteriorates and causes focusing issues. CLA is recommended with all of these bodies. There are several issues affecting older cameras. Any impact will shorten the body length. CLA at place that has factory jigs will take care of all geometry issues.
This is not something that only happens to Hasselblads but most of the cameras. Hasselblad has built in ways to restore geometry of the body and it can be adjusted back to factory specifications.

 

[Alan Gales]

I agree. The 100mm is a little long for normal use, so I still recommend the 50mm, 80mm and 250mm for the typical users.

I understand where you are coming from, my friend. Especially, since you don't shoot portraits.

Myself, I would choose the 180 over the 250mm. It's an excellent portrait lens!

 

[ruilourosa]

Kiev 60 and biometar last version?
Buy two or three