Cheapskate Life - Modifying roll film holders/backs

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fdonadio

fdonadio

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The easiest, cheapest way to do this (narrator: it's not THAT easy, but it's relatively cheap) that I found was to use an Ansco 3A body (3A film, aka 122 roll film, is five 3-1/4" x 5-1/2" exposures on a roll). I put a couple rails in front of the film gate for 120 film width, and bought some 122 to 120 spool adapters from evilBay vendors. I drilled a new hole in the back for exposure numbers, using a red piece from a swatch book for the red window. Using the 6x4.5 numbers, it's a little more than 3 per shot. A pressure plate from a Kodak 1A keeps everything flat-ish. The format is 6cm x 14cm, and you get 5 exposures on 120 film if you're lucky ( there are some winding gremlins that crop up from time to time). The results when it all comes together are spectacular, though.
My previous approach to this project was modifying a Kodak No. 1A Autographic (uses 116 film), but looking at its construction, I decided not to follow this path. I felt film flatness would be an issue with this particular camera.

The other option was a postcard (3A or 122) camera, but I didn't look seriously into it, because of the impression I got from the 1A. This Ansco looks better built than the Kodaks, though. Maybe I should go back to this idea...
 

ivan35mm

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I must confess I don't know much about 3D printing. I have a good friend that knows a lot about it, but lives a little too far. I am also afraid of falling into another rabbit hole if I get in to 3D printing. 😁

It’s much easier than you would think… and if camera modifications is something that interests you, i’m afraid it is gonna be inevitable haha. it’s nothing more than a tool on your work bench, except that it allows you to see & measure things that aren’t quite in the real world, just yet :wink:

If you need any help, send me a message. I’ll take a stab at whatever you wanna try and render in 3D CAD.


Sure there are, but printing services are expensive, to the point it makes no sense.

Personally, I don’t agree with this. Sites like Xometry EU (since you are based in Europe, like myself) and a few others, make rapid prototyping so cheap and instantly accessible. Compared to traditional “tooling” (think CNC machining) AKA subtractive manufacturing, 3D printing AKA additive manufacturing is significantly cheaper. There are also 5+ different 3D printing technologies & 100+ different materials to choose from. This allows you to choose whatever you want. From super cheaper 3D parts to incredibly expensive. I often settle for SLS printed Nylon 12 parts. Cheap enough that if I screwed up some dimensions somewhere, I can print it again without breaking the bank. Also cheap enough that if I get it right the first time, all the better.
 
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Donald Qualls

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I've seen a 6x12 made from opposite ends of two Moskva 5 bodies -- one the supply, the other the takeup/advance. It was for a pinhole, though, for film flatness mattered less...
 
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