Carbon Printing Problem

[Bruce]

I had been using ADOX paper as my final support but recently switched to fixed out Ilford matte paper.



I was able to make some good carbon prints – without any frilling but now I have experienced a weird issue



Even after a 15 minuted hot 115F development, some of the pigment will not release off of the image. I have to keep adding hot water over the print to get some of the pigment off BUT not all of it will release.



Any idea as to why this could be happening? I am using the same pigmented Yupo as to when I had good results and have not changed my process..



Thanks for any thoughts you might have,

 

[TheToadMen]

What is your process (after exposure to UV) to transfer the pigment layer from the Yupo to the photo paper?

Do you transfer to the front or the back of the photo paper? Did you fix the photo paper previously to using it?

 

[Vaughn]

"...some of the pigment will not release off of the image."

I am having a problem understanding this. Usually the gelatin melts away from the print. Is actually just pigment that is sticking or pigmented gelatin that is sticking?

If it is just pigment, this problem plagued me for a full year. I had switched to 16x20 Oriental Seagull Glossy to print 11x14 negs. The problem diassapeared when I accidently used a piece of Ilford Gallerie Glossy. So it might be paper related, but others have used Oriental with no problems! Never figured out why. Static or some type of clinging by the carbon particles evenily over the surface of the print. Drove me nuts! My prints lost all their sparkle!

 

[Bruce]

Bert- I am using the same process for prints that worked before - just a few days ago in fact. No changes in my process except now I am using Ilford matte paper that has been fixed out. Some of the prints worked fine on this paper and others didn't. I transfer to the front (shiny side) of the fixed out photo paper that I had fixed out a week ago.

Vaughn - Thanks for the idea that it might be paper related. I didnt have this problem when I was using ADOX paper.

All- Thanks for your thoughts.

I will keep trying - next week. Stay tuned for updates.

 

[TheToadMen]

If you still have a sheet of ADOX paper, run one sheet alongside the Ilford (using the same negative, chemicals & process) as a reference point.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I always found fixed out Ilford Matte Fibre paper tended to have more suction with the tissue, compared to my usual acrylic sized art papers. More difficult to peal the tissue away in the development bath. Occasionally, I'd end up with more pigmented gelatine in some areas of the print that took a lot longer to clear (with the aid of my finger). A longer soak time for the tissue in the cold mating bath helped. Also increasing the development bath from my usual 42C to 45C helped... but sometimes ran the risk of blistering. I always avoid a long development times like the plague. If the print has cleared in a few minutes after releasing the tissue, something in the process needs tweaking.