Carbon final support paper

[Chromium VI]

I also size my papers (fabriano, canson, etc...) with acrylic varnish the way that Andy does. I use La Pajarita matte varnish, which is made in Spain. I personally use dichromate, as it is cheaper and easier to find than DAS or FAC. I also use my sizing for carbro prints and never had any problems.

 

[MTGseattle]

No, it's not useful as an intermediate support because it's non-permeable. It's widely used as a tissue base; that's probably what you're thinking of. Some people (but not many AFAIK) like it as a final support as well because it's a very clean, technical and homogeneous surface with a subtle luster. It renders detail phenomenally well and texture/relief also stands out readily. I find it far too clinical to my taste, but it's a dependable surface to make test transfers to - although I have to admit I mostly used gelatin-sized PE or PP sheets instead for that purpose, most of the time.

Ah, yes. That is what I was thinking of.

 

[MTGseattle]

How do you coat the size onto your paper? Do you use a foam roller and let all of it soak into the paper every layer because I just go over once with a lot of size than squeeze most of it out and go over again (every layer)

@Andrew O'Neill has a really good "sizing the tissue" video within his Carbon playlist on YouTube.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

How do you coat the size onto your paper? Do you use a foam roller and let all of it soak into the paper every layer because I just go over once with a lot of size than squeeze most of it out and go over again (every layer)

As mentioned by @MTGseattle, I show how I do it in my Carbon Transfer series. But to recap, I put down 4 coats with a high density "sausage" roller, from the hardware store. The medium is diluted about 1+1 with water. The roller is loaded with the acrylic, and rolled on. I use pressure until the paper is covered, then no pressure (only the weight of the roller), and roll until there is no stippling. That usually takes quite a few passes. I hang it up to dry, then apply the next coat. The first coat take more medium than the following coats. You can use a blow dryer to speed it up but be careful doing it this way, as lint may stick to the coating. Always make sure your coating area is clean! I coat on a large piece of plate glass, which is always wiped down and squeegeed. Acrylic medium that spills over the edge of the paper, is easily wiped off after the session.

 

[UrabobPrinting]

Thanks! I'll try it this way.

 

[MTGseattle]

One of these days I'll quit procrastinating and give stuff a try. I bought a couple of "budget" options with the intent of using the Acylic method. One is literally a Canson spiral bound watercolor sketchbook, the other is a shrink-wrapped pack of 15 sheets or Arches paper. (the kind of options one can get from a crafting store or even some Target/Walmart locations and not an art supplier)
I keep thinking I don't have the proper negatives for the process yet, but other practitioners have made carbon prints from almost every subject and for my initial foray I don't need some exquisite scene.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

You can use pretty much any (heavy) paper, as long it can withstand hot water bath.I used to use Rising Stonehenge, thinner but it was OK in the hot bath. I liked medium too high relief, so switched to heavier papers. The tension on the paper when it dried, caused too much distortion of the image.