Canon EF camera

[colin wells]

The second one arrived last week and I've been using/testing it out and its all I hoped it would be .The build quality is fantastic you just don't get this kind of build any more a cross between a Swiss watch and a Humvee .All that and it uses FD lenses that go for a song on ebay what more could I want

 

[benjiboy]

They really don't make them like the EF any more I have most of the Canon FD cameras including the New F1 and the EF is the smoothest camera in operation I own.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

It's interesting that Canon chose to have the sub-1-second speeds electronically controlled and the faster speeds be mechanical. That seems backwards because precision is needed more at higher speeds than slower ones.

Does anyone know if the camera can be used with just a single battery for the meter and no battery for the slow speeds?

I'll confess to using mine without batteries. I rarely use batteries in my F2's as well, since I've shot for decades without a meter.

 

[trythis]

It's interesting that Canon chose to have the sub-1-second speeds electronically contro....
Does anyone know if the camera can be used with just a single battery for the meter and no battery for the slow speeds?

....

The camera works exactly like it has no batteries if only one is installed.

 

[vsyrek1945]

They really don't make them like the EF any more I have most of the Canon FD cameras including the New F1 and the EF is the smoothest camera in operation I own.

A couple of nits to pick regarding the YouTube video:

1) What he calls a "Sync" switch is actually the selector to switch the meter to the rear hot shoe contacts for the CAT [Canon Auto Tuning] auto flash system. Canon only offered the 133A Speedlite for CAT System cameras, as thyristor circuitry based dedicated systems made CAT obsolete. The EF, FTb, and original F-1 synchronized with conventional flash units without having to change the switch setting.
2) The eye cup on the camera is an A-series accessory. AFAIK, Canon didn't offer a rubber eye cup for the EF, FTb, or F-1.

Otherwise, a nice video.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

The viewfinder in the EF is my favorite among Canon bodies (your selected shutter speed on the bottom, camera-selected aperture on the right side), though you could make a good case for the F1-N.

My overall favorite viewfinder is the one in the Nikon FM3a.

 

[AgX]

Canon only offered the 133A Speedlite for CAT System cameras, as thyristor circuitry based dedicated systems made CAT obsolete.

The thyristor flash design is about saving unused capacitor charges. It is only indirectly related to flash autoexposure.
The CAT flash-autexposure system relates to object-distance, the succeeding systems relate to object-reflectance.
The CAT system is thus the more objective one.

However it is technically complicated in that it neccesitates a dedicated coupling between lens, camera and flash.

 

[vsyrek1945]

The thyristor flash design is about saving unused capacitor charges. It is only indirectly related to flash autoexposure.
The CAT flash-autexposure system relates to object-distance, the succeeding systems relate to object-reflectance.
The CAT system is thus the more objective one.

However it is technically complicated in that it neccesitates a dedicated coupling between lens, camera and flash.

You're right on both points. I called the CAT unit 133A, but it was the 133D, and I bought one with the coupling ring for my FTb and 50mm f/1.4 not long after it came out. The system was actually a "match-needle" flash exposure system: the camera's meter needle was coupled to the distance set on the mounted lens through the added contacts at the hot shoe's rear and the coupling ring mounted on the lens, with the user adjusting the f/stop for proper flash exposure. The CAT System had drawbacks. The 133D dumped at full power every flash, and wasn't a very powerful unit, so Its recycle time was 6 or 7 seconds at best, and its guide number of 60 in feet at ASA 100 limited what I could do with it. In addition, setting up for CAT System flash shooting involved mounting the coupling ring properly on the mounted lens, making sure the selector switch was set for the proper lens [there were two rings available, one for the 50/1.4-35/2 combo, and the other for the 50/1.8-35/2 pair], then connecting the coupling ring to the shoe-mounted 133D. IIRC, the FTb's meter switch had to be "OFF" for CAT to function. Refocusing more than a bit meant re-setting the f-stop to maintain good exposure, slowing response time.

By comparison, when thyristor auto-flash units hit the market, I just mounted one on my FTb, chose the desired f-stop based on the desired distance range and ASA of the loaded film, and set the shutter speed; as soon as the ready light came on I had only to focus and shoot. Many units had audible signals indicating they were ready to fire as well as for exposure confirmation, allowing me to stay at the viewfinder and concentrate on shooting. The flash tube technology advanced as well, and shoe-mount units with ASA 100 guide numbers in the 100-120 range became commonly available and affordable.

Canon apparently recognized the CAT System's limitations, and never offered a higher-powered Speedlight. When the AE-1 came out in 1976, dedicated auto-flash with thyristor units was the standard. My 133D spent a lot of time gathering dust on a shelf, replaced first by a Vivitar 281, a non-thyristor high-power shoe-mount self-contained ni-cad unit. The 281 didn't last long, so I soon got a more modern thyristor unit powered by AA alkalines that I could use with both the FTb and as a dedicated unit with the AE-1 I bought in 1982.

 

[darinwc]

They really don't make them like the EF any more I have most of the Canon FD cameras including the New F1 and the EF is the smoothest camera in operation I own.

Those are some big hands to make that camera looks small!

 

[blockend]

Those transitional cameras have held up pretty well. What they lack in electronic sophistication they make up for in build quality, something subsequent cameras forfeited as they became more electronically evolved (some pro models excepted). The Nikon EL, Pentax ES and Canon EF are getting long in the tooth but are still capable of getting the shot 40+ years on. Most have a thirst for batteries, so definitely worth carrying a spare or two.

 

[Chan Tran]

It's interesting that Canon chose to have the sub-1-second speeds electronically controlled and the faster speeds be mechanical. That seems backwards because precision is needed more at higher speeds than slower ones.

Does anyone know if the camera can be used with just a single battery for the meter and no battery for the slow speeds?

I'll confess to using mine without batteries. I rarely use batteries in my F2's as well, since I've shot for decades without a meter.

It's more difficult to make a mechanical shutter with long shutter time while it's very easy electronically. Notice that your F2 can do 10 sec exposure only with the help of the self timer? Although electronic controlled shutter is more accurate than mechanical but at fast shutter speed the accuracy is dependent on the shutter travel time which is purely mechanical. Only at slower speed that electronic controlled shutter is really better than the mechanical counterpart.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Ok - that's a good point. Usually mechanical cameras with long shutter times (over 1 second) use the self timer. You mentioned the F2; the Exakta also uses a separately wound dial.

I suppose long shutter times were more common in the days of film having speeds like 25 or 12.

 

[flavio81]

It's interesting that Canon chose to have the sub-1-second speeds electronically controlled and the faster speeds be mechanical. That seems backwards because precision is needed more at higher speeds than slower ones.

On a mechanical camera speeds from about 1/125 to 1/1000 (or top speed) are controlled by varying the aperture of the shutter curtains, this is rather precise.

While the slow speeds, about 1/30 to 1/1, are controlled by clockword and this is not so precise compared to above. Controlling those electronically makes perfect sense.

In fact it makes so much sense, than the Canon New F-1 has speeds from 1/2000 to 1/90 controlled mechanically while the slower speeds (1/60 and below) are electronically controlled.

 

[flavio81]

The eye cup on the camera is an A-series accessory. AFAIK, Canon didn't offer a rubber eye cup for the EF, FTb, or F-1.

I have a rubber eyecup on my F-1!! Canon original.

 

[flavio81]

For me, the way I see it, the EF (1973) was an answer to the Nikkormat EL (1972). I owned the EF and i own the Nikkormat.

The EF was a way of Canon to say "i can do this as well", so it also had AE exposue as the Nikkormat, it also had AE lock, it also had the same shutter type (probably it is almost the EXACT shutter by Copal) but it upped the ante with:
- displaying the aperture value
- speeds down to 1/30sec
- silicon blue cells for the meter

Both are nice cameras but I did not like the on/off swich of the EF, because it locks the shutter. I wish I could turn of the meter without locking the shutter. Perhaps I would buy again my EF back and try to modify for this. My EF was power-hungry, but then the electrical contacts never received service.

Build quality is great on both -- the Nikkormat EL is perhaps one of the best built Nikons ever; the EF is close in build quality as the F-1, which itself is better built than ALL Nikons (at least up to the F3 and including).

 

[vsyrek1945]

I have a rubber eyecup on my F-1!! Canon original.

OK, I wasn't aware that the F-1 had a circular eye piece a la the Nikon F. Canon's other F series cameras had rectangular eye pieces, and the earliest eye cups I can remember Canon offering for these were the A- series rubber units.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

... the EF is close in build quality as the F-1, which itself is better built than ALL Nikons (at least up to the F3 and including).

Not having disassembled any Nikons nor the F-1, I would be interested in knowing what the build quality differences are (note: since I own many pro Nikons and Canons, as well as others, I don't have an emotional attachment to any brand).

What I'm looking for is something like:

"the lever on this camera is steel, whereas the lever on that camera is cardboard"

"the gear on this camera is 1mm thick, whereas the gear on that camera is 0.01mm thick"

"these parts mate with a wedge shape, self-adjusting for wear over time and have adjustment points at each end, whereas that camera uses rubber bands that need to be replaced every 42 exposures"

That sort of thing.

 

[gone]

If I remember correctly, my Nikkormat EL also had AE lock. Both are wonderful cameras, but I preferred the F1 and the regular Nikkormats. My El would give an annoying "ping" whenever I tripped the shutter, unlike the regular Nikkormats. I finally traced it down to that little lever in the mirror box that actuated the lens stop down arm when you fired the shutter. Every EL I owned made this noise, none of the Nikkormats did. Weird.

My walk around camera used to be a F1 (no rubber eyecup, just the factory Nikon type rubber O ring) w/ a FD 135 2.5 lens. Superb lens that you can pick up for peanuts, but that rig was just too heavy to carry around daily.

 

[benjiboy]

I have a rubber eyecup on my F-1!! Canon original.

I have genuine Canon brand eye cups too for my New F1's.

 

[flavio81]

Not having disassembled any Nikons nor the F-1, I would be interested in knowing what the build quality differences are (note: since I own many pro Nikons and Canons, as well as others, I don't have an emotional attachment to any brand).

What I'm looking for is something like:

"the lever on this camera is steel, whereas the lever on that camera is cardboard.

I wouldn't worry. Both the Canon F1 and the Nikon F2 (and F) are as reliable as it gets. I bet they have beautiful innards.

I just think that from the external side the old F1 definitely feels more solid and better put together than the F2.

 

[flavio81]

If I remember correctly, my Nikkormat EL also had AE lock. Both are wonderful cameras, but I preferred the F1 and the regular Nikkormats. My El would give an annoying "ping" whenever I tripped the shutter, unlike the regular Nikkormats. I finally traced it down to that little lever in the mirror box that actuated the lens stop down arm when you fired the shutter.

Thanks for this post. My EL does the same. But I love my Nikkormat EL. I also have the FT2 and I feel the EL is a better machine. And build quality is at an all-time high for Nikon here...

 

[benjiboy]

Interestingly of all the Canon SLR's I own (F1n, F1-N T90 ) my EF is the smoothest in operation of all of them.

 

[AgX]

What do mean by "smoothest"?

My first thought was film transport/cocking, but the T-90 does that for us...

 

[benjiboy]

What do mean by "smoothest"?

My first thought was film transport/cocking, but the T-90 does that for us...

Smoothest film winding and shutter action.

 

[benjiboy]

What do mean by "smoothest"?

My first thought was film transport/cocking, but the T-90 does that for us...

What do mean by "smoothest"?

My first thought was film transport/cocking, but the T-90 does that for us...

Film transport and shutter action.